Cruiser completely losing electrical power...wtf?

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This just started yesterday, get ready to read.

I have not driven the truck for a couple days and go to start and completely dead, no dash lights, no clicking, nada. I thought it was strange as I havent had any problems with battery since i have had it. No biggie, jump start it and its fine.

When i get to where im going, i park it in the driveway and leave the doors open to unload. No dome lights on, all switched off as i normally do when loading/unloading. When i come back to lock it the power seems to be completely drained again. At this point, the party is getting going so i just lock the doors manually and go inside.

I come back to it this morning and were all ready to jump start it and immediately when the jumpers are connected the alarm goes off. We took off the jumpers and the truck started. This means the truck now has complete power. Idle was hard to acheive as the computer is relearning, correct? Only thing is every other time the ecu has been reset the idle stumbled around but never died. This time it took 4 or 5 times and i finally had to apply throttle to keep it running.

Get driving down the road and then all power goes out. Turn key over and over and nothing. Get to the battery and knock the connections around a bit, make sure terminals are tight. The terminals are tight and clean. All of a sudden VIOLA! Now i have power again.

My buddy meet up with me and knows a good deal about cruisers and hes thinking the ecu is just relearning and dying in the process but cant figure why the loss of electrical power. We checked all the ecu fuses, relays and battery connections. Also battery as 12 volts without engine running. I was thinking maybe a dround connection is going bad?? I dont know, what should i look at.
 
Assuming the battery is in good shape; reading a voltage of around 12.0 volts; then look at this post:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/218494-battery-connection-does-look-right.html

These are the crappy fuse link arrangement that Toyota puts in. These have a tendency to twist, corrode and become high resistant to current. If one of these 3 links has an intermittent open circuit, it could lead to ur problem.

Also, check the grounds off the negative side of the battery, corrosion causes problems.

Replacing fuse links would be good.

...
 
Assuming the battery is in good shape; reading a voltage of around 12.0 volts; then look at this post:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/218494-battery-connection-does-look-right.html

These are the crappy fuse link arrangement that Toyota puts in. These have a tendency to twist, corrode and become high resistant to current. If one of these 3 links has an intermittent open circuit, it could lead to ur problem.

Also, check the grounds off the negative side of the battery, corrosion causes problems.

Replacing fuse links would be good.

...

Where does the above link go?
 
To Otto Von Squiggly's post in the 80's section.
 
oh .ok.
 
i second the notion to check bat. terminals for corrosion and a good connection as well as the wiring harness, not just by the EGR but follow it as it separates giving a little tug/twist/squeeze. I had a very similar situation last summer and it was a bad wire in loom going to TPS and MAF area. I also found my harness melted by the egr and took the time to wrap it up tight.
 
Going to clean it al up today with some electical spray. Is the fuse link above the one that is made to melt/fail in case of too much voltage that i read about in the FAQS? I thought that was only 93 or earlier.
 
In the stock 94-FZJ80, there are 3 fuse links -the MAIN, the AM1 and the AM2 fuse links.

The MAIN link(blue) is the charge/discharge link from the + battery to the alternator.

The other two supply juice to many circuits - see EWD189U.
& Battery,Fuse, Winch Project : FuseLink

...
 
I cleaned up the connections. The links looked good, very good actually. Haven't had any problems since so I hope this doesnt pop up at a bad time.
 
I'm having electrical issues with y cruiser after the detailing! Started off with the key-less entry not working. Apparently the circuit board was wet.

Got that fixed and all of a sudden I had while driving at night, my dashboard light go off, my AC lights go off, and I'm driving with only my front lights on! I didn't even have working tail lights. Took it to an mechanic/electrician and he said that the key-less entry caused a short. He fixed it and everything was fine.

2 days later, (yesterday) I was driving to go to a boat show when I noticed my speedometer jumping like crazy! Even when the car was at a stop light and it was stationary the speedometer would jump from 0 to 120KM/H then go back to 0! I thought that was OK cause it happened before, but that night I started the cruiser up and guess what, there were some issues! Non of the windows will go down, the front AC wouldn't work, and all the gauges (speedo, rpm, oil temp...) on the dashboard aren't working! When the car is running and I open the door you hear the beep that warns you that the keys are in the truck when the truck is off!

Any feedback/suggestions?
 
I see you have 4 cig lighters. When were they installed?
 
I see you have 4 cig lighters. When were they installed?

More than a year ago!

I checked up on the fuse box and one of them was out! I changed the fuse and BAM everything was in order! My gauges all work and so does the AC! Now I have to clean up the Speedo cable cause the speedometer still jumps around but this time it will not stop! :p
 
It,s a bad body ground

check body ground at neg terminal it is probably broken inside neg terminal cut wire and add eye connector and attach to neg terminal bolt.
 
I checked the one coming off the battery and its fine. Where are all the grounds on the engine that could relate to this?
 
Assuming the battery is in good shape; reading a voltage of around 12.0 volts; then look at this post:

Battery connection, Does this look right? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/218494-battery-connection-does-look-right.html

These are the crappy fuse link arrangement that Toyota puts in. These have a tendency to twist, corrode and become high resistant to current. If one of these 3 links has an intermittent open circuit, it could lead to ur problem.

Also, check the grounds off the negative side of the battery, corrosion causes problems.

Replacing fuse links would be good.
Even if tested good they could be bad?
...
 

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