Cruiser Brothers 12.5 LRA Aux Tank Install in LX570 (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

We are not prepared to install the tank when the tank touches the body but is mounted to the frame. It is perfectly fine for the DIY, however as a shop, what would be our recourse if it is installed and then the customer complains about vibrations or noises. Or a couple of years down the load the material that you put in between has degraded or has rubbed through. We have done one of them, and after that install chose not to do them again based on our technicians feedback.

If that were the case, I'd absolutely agree with you. It was probably one of your customers that originally hinted to me potential watch items on the early production tanks.

I have pretty high standards for what I'll install to my car. I agree neoprene is not a solution, particularly long term. I've provided steps to fully address all the clearance issues, but I believe they have been since addressed.

Maybe @wardharris can clarify.
 
Just for whatever it is worth, the product Eric recommended to us isn’t neoprene like you’d see in a wetsuit. It is a heavy duty rubber-like consistency sheet good.
 
We are not prepared to install the tank when the tank touches the body but is mounted to the frame. It is perfectly fine for the DIY, however as a shop, what would be our recourse if it is installed and then the customer complains about vibrations or noises. Or a couple of years down the load the material that you put in between has degraded or has rubbed through. We have done one of them, and after that install chose not to do them again based on our technicians feedback.
That makes total sense to me. As a business you have to consider those issues that a DIYer doesn’t have to deal with. For most DIY folks, we have nobody to blame but ourselves, and can just go in and replace the worn out rubber. Being on this board has given me a new appreciation for the things you pro shops have to deal with - I bet you could write a book about it...
 
I've provided steps to fully address all the clearance issues, but I believe they have been since addressed.
I will admit that I have not looked at the tanks recently, but I am not aware that any changes were made. Maybe they have. It is a nice solution for those not wanting to replace the rear bumper with a aftermarket one with carriers etc. Just wish it was not such a shoe-horn install.
 
I really don't understand what the issue is.
The bracket is a nothing bracket that is already removed by those mounting larger spare tires.
The two tabs are weak metal pieces that do nothing and can be ripped or cut off in 30 seconds. (I used tin snips.)

I don't know of any body rubbing specific to the 12.5, but I installed my 40 gallon over a year ago, by myself in my driveway, and it has been flawless.

Put it this way - The main reason I have not traded my 2015 in for a new one this year is because I have the LRA tank installed.

I dread the thought of going back to a 250mi- ish range.
 
Ditto - fretting over cutting the 2 body tabs is making mountains out of mole hills! They are completely useless on US spec vehicles. Their job is to hold a OEM subtank, which is not compatible with US emissions anyway (takes same spot as charcoal canister).

Before it was pointed out on this thread, no body knew they existed, now some are agonizing over trimming them.

Having extra 12.5 gallons had made a HUGE difference in :princess: satisfaction with the 200 as she only has to get gas once a week instead of twice.

Just make sure to clean, prime and paint and it’s like they were never there.
 
I don’t think the tabs are a big deal.
I just asked if they were indicatory of the tank not being designed specifically for the US Land Cruiser.

The bigger problem is the possibly too-tight fit that some worry could cause long term issues and short term work-arounds.

Obviously the best fix is to go with one of the larger tanks that don’t cause this worry. But some of us don’t want to move the spare tire like the larger tanks require.

Changing tacts; do we have any testimony from people who have had the 12.5 gallon tank installed for 6+ years? Maybe my fears about the tight fit are unwarranted.
 
I don’t think the tabs are a big deal.
I just asked if they were indicatory of the tank not being designed specifically for the US Land Cruiser.

The bigger problem is the possibly too-tight fit that some worry could cause long term issues and short term work-arounds.

Obviously the best fix is to go with one of the larger tanks that don’t cause this worry. But some of us don’t want to move the spare tire like the larger tanks require.

Changing tacts; do we have any testimony from people who have had the 12.5 gallon tank installed for 6+ years? Maybe my fears about the tight fit are unwarranted.

For background, the LRA tanks were originally designed in AUS for that market. The major modification as Cruiser Brothers imported them to the US, was to create a relief/cutout for the US market vehicles that have the charcoal canister located there.

The original LRA design required the tabs to be cut-off. It was just missed in translation to the instructions. LRA has a long standing reputation for quality aux tank products in their market.
 
I don't know of any body rubbing specific to the 12.5, but I installed my 40 gallon over a year ago, by myself in my driveway, and it has been flawless.

We install the 24 and 40 gallon tanks. They do not have the issue with the body contact / minimal clearance issue that causes the tank to come in contact with the body when the body moves independent of the frame. This might not be an issue for some, but as mentioned we have no recourse if the tank and the customer does not like the noises. We can't reverse the process.
 
Ditto - fretting over cutting the 2 body tabs is making mountains out of mole hills! They are completely useless on US spec vehicles. Their job is to hold a OEM subtank, which is not compatible with US emissions anyway (takes same spot as charcoal canister).

Before it was pointed out on this thread, no body knew they existed, now some are agonizing over trimming them.

Having extra 12.5 gallons had made a HUGE difference in :princess: satisfaction with the 200 as she only has to get gas once a week instead of twice.

Just make sure to clean, prime and paint and it’s like they were never there.
The canister can be relocated, but it is certainly not within the scope of a 'bolt up' operation.
 
hive mind-

i am having a terrible time finding the thread for the LRA tanks that deals with the venting issue. help a brother out? i have been fighting with this damned tank for 9 months now with the same check engine codes no matter what tricks i do. if i didnt love buying costco gas every 700 miles, i'd chuck the damned thing!

thanks
 
hive mind-

i am having a terrible time finding the thread for the LRA tanks that deals with the venting issue. help a brother out? i have been fighting with this damned tank for 9 months now with the same check engine codes no matter what tricks i do. if i didnt love buying costco gas every 700 miles, i'd chuck the damned thing!

thanks

You can contact LRA for the latest updated instructions. The original instructions had the aux tank vent into the air as it originated from the diesel setup. I T-tapped the aux tank breather into the main tank breather, and that resolved the codes on the majority of the days. Occasionally I still get some codes on a cold morning. Some guys get a blue tooth OBDii reader and some app for the phone and clear the codes that way.

Hope that helps.
 
You can contact LRA for the latest updated instructions. The original instructions had the aux tank vent into the air as it originated from the diesel setup. I T-tapped the aux tank breather into the main tank breather, and that resolved the codes on the majority of the days. Occasionally I still get some codes on a cold morning. Some guys get a blue tooth OBDii reader and some app for the phone and clear the codes that way.

Hope that helps.
thanks fisher, i'll give that a try. are you just connecting both breathers to the filler neck so both are still connected at the top, or plugging the aux connection at the neck and just connecting the aux hose into the main tank vent?

i get my CELs after the truck sits for a few days and runs the system leak test. intermittent, it can go a few weeks and 1000+ miles with no issue, and then not be driven for a day or two and the CELs pop right back up.

i keep an OBD2 device in the glove box for this nuisance.
 
Never had a CEL with my LRA. Not sure if I have been lucky or what. Also have never boiled my gas. Not sure why that is.
 
Hi all,

Just got the LRA 12.5 tank installed by the good folks at Duggy’s garage.

Just a quick q

What’s the biggest tire I can run with the 12.5 tank? I’m currently running 275 65 R18. Wanted to upgrade to 285 65 R18 or 275 70 R18

Duggys garage told me that either of those tires would be too big with the 12.5 sub tank, but I think they might be mistaken. Can anyone here confirm or deny?

Thanks!
 
Thanks @brasskey

One more Q: sorry a little embarrassing. In terms of operation: I press the button, the orange light goes in, and I hear the upgraded pump which is transferring gas.

The odd thing is that running it a minute, I saw the cruiser fuel gauge increase nominally (the LC dashboard gas indicator went from just below a quarter tank to just above a quarter tank.) while the aux gauge went from 3 green to 4 green bars.I thought it would go down, not up.

Any idea on how to interpret what is happening? Also any issues running the aux pump whilst driving? It seems to be quite slow even with the upgraded pump..
 
Thanks @brasskey

One more Q: sorry a little embarrassing. In terms of operation: I press the button, the orange light goes in, and I hear the upgraded pump which is transferring gas.

The odd thing is that running it a minute, I saw the cruiser fuel gauge increase nominally (the LC dashboard gas indicator went from just below a quarter tank to just above a quarter tank.) while the aux gauge went from 3 green to 4 green bars.I thought it would go down, not up.

Any idea on how to interpret what is happening? Also any issues running the aux pump whilst driving? It seems to be quite slow even with the upgraded pump..

It does take a bit for the LC dash gauge to go up, even with the upgraded pump. It memory serves me correctly, it’s about 10 minutes to transfer the full tank with the upgraded pump I had.

For the aux gauge, that is definitely not right. It should start a 4 green lights then go down to 3, 2, 1 as it fills. It will then blink red and continue pumping for a minute or two then go to solid red (with no green lights). I would go back to the installer as something is wrong.
 
Last edited:
Thanks @brasskey

One more Q: sorry a little embarrassing. In terms of operation: I press the button, the orange light goes in, and I hear the upgraded pump which is transferring gas.

The odd thing is that running it a minute, I saw the cruiser fuel gauge increase nominally (the LC dashboard gas indicator went from just below a quarter tank to just above a quarter tank.) while the aux gauge went from 3 green to 4 green bars.I thought it would go down, not up.

Any idea on how to interpret what is happening? Also any issues running the aux pump whilst driving? It seems to be quite slow even with the upgraded pump..


The pump is really slow. It is made to run it while driving. Mine takes about 45 minutes to fill up the main tank from 1/4 to 3/4 while freeway driving. There is a upgrade fuel pump available at jegs for about $80 which is faster and quieter. It pumps until the red light comes on then it has setting to pump 1,2 or 4 minutes after the red light comes on. You can tell from the woody wood pecker sound when it starts pumping air; it gets much louder. I use the pump that came with it.

For the gauge I would fill up the aux tank and make sure it starts at 4 bars. It may have been on the boarder between 3 bar 4 bar, or maybe the fuel sloshed and lifted the float up temporarily. I would run it for a bit before running back to the installer.
 
Last edited:
Are the aux fuel pump's electrical connections robust against water intrusion? Like when fording a stream that goes up to that height? I would assume so, but just wanted to check to be sure.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom