I will check out Allpro , Sky, and Rocky Buggy Supply. Another question...I have FJ-55 rear packs on the rear of my 78 FJ-40...can I do my SOA with front FJ-55 packs? I've heard of using rear 55 packs on the front of a 40, but don't know why those where chosen instead of front 55 packs?
[quote author=sdgraber link=board=1;threadid=5319;start=msg41809#msg41809 date=1063735043]Another question...I have FJ-55 rear packs on the rear of my 78 FJ-40...can I do my SOA with front FJ-55 packs? I've heard of using rear 55 packs on the front of a 40, but don't know why those where chosen instead of front 55 packs?[/quote]
IIRC, the FJ55 front packs are either A> identical to the FJ40 packs or B> are the same length but with a centered pin.
Now that I think more, it's B (your tape measure will tell ya tho)....anyways, it pushes your axle forward ~1.75" which is nice...but you don't gain much in the articulation arena, which is the reason for using the longer FJ55 rear packs. (these are 3.5" longer)
Cool info....I didn't know that the rear 55 packs were longer which certainly would be nice for wheelbase, and articulation If I stick with the front 55 packs, that will be about the same as using stock 40 packs, accept that I would have to reverse the 40 packs and swap the military wrap (redrilling the one swapped ???) to get the same wheelbase, right? I think the 55 fronts would be a little simpler, yes??
P.S. I just want to say how freakin cool it is to be able to get questions like this answered...thanks a ton for keeping this sight live and all your input
55 fronts will be slightly simpler, and will extend your wheelbase a tad. You won't gain "quite" as much flex as with the longer rear 55 packs, but it does simplify installation since you don't need to redrill a leaf to locate the mil-wrap properly for the shackle reversal.
see the Tech Links too and read up on my 55 pack install writeups. May clear up a few things. (or may just confuse you more!) lol
Forgot about 4x4Labs...thanks hammerhead!! Heard nuthin but good about that place too.
I think I'm set to get rolling on the front SOA. Really appreciate you guys input...and yes 'Woody', your tech article has been a big help. I'll keep you posted on the developments and maybe send a pic of the completed 78 FJ-40, cherry red dream (Rudy), when I've got him finished.
After getting into my SOA project (poor Rudy is in pieces at my local welders shop), I need to revive this discussion as I need HELP ???
I had planned on using stock 40 leafs, flipped and redrilled for the added 3.5 inches of wheelbase. What I didn't take into account is that doing a shackle reversal with the solid mounts moved to the front and welded flush with the end of the frame will also get me an added 1.5 or 2 inches of wheelbase over stock, right? So now we are talking more like 5.5 inches of added wheelbase right? Is this going to add additoinal steering set-up concerns over and above the 3.5 inches I was plannig on? I'm looking at cross-over using a second welder passenger side on top of the stock one, or possibly a custom hi- steer using welded arms on both sides (though those arms from 4x4 Labs are looking better all the time ). Any advise on whether to go flipped leafs and shackle reversal (5.5 inches), or just stock leaf set-up and shackle reversal (2 inches) would be GREATLY appreciated.
Having done both the crossover and the hysteer there's only one way to do it right. Go hysteer if you go with the double arm that leaves the tierod below the springs trust me the first thing you'll do is wack it on a rock and end up with a u shaped tierod and the wheels both pointing in.
uuuumm...check yer math Scott. You do NOT need to redrill the 2nd leaf if you both reverse the springs AND do the shackle reversal, and you only move the front axle ~3.5". IMO, this is a great way to do it, since you keep the short side of the pack connected to the solid mount, which helps with wrap issues (yes, even in the front)
Final wheelbase with reversed rear packs, reversed front packs, AND the shackle reversal should put you in the 97" range. (stock = 90", +3.5" front and +3.5" rear)
I must have been spinning all this in my head for to many nights now If I've already done the shackle reversal and moved the stock solid mount flush with the front of my frame, then all I need to do is put my stock 40 leaf packs on with the short side forward and prestoe...3.5 inches of wheelbase increase? Let me go ahead and give myself the finger for trashing two drill bits drilling the springs to reverse the military wrap when I wouldn't have needed to...also weakened them a little I bet :'( Just so my foggy mind is clear...with a shackle reversal, you just bolt those stock 40 leaves on backwords, no drilling, no flipping the military wrap...and you gain 3.5 inches, is that right? If so then I'm feeling a little like Homer Thanks for helping me keep things straight...'Rudy' and I are greatful!
Do the high-steer dude. I took mine out today for the first hard thrash since going to high steer and the larger saginaw. Wow, too cool. Worked wonders and didn't have a care in the world. I went right into the nasty stuff and no rocks were stacked till after I went through (my buddies haven't switched yet). No more bent tie-rods!! WOOOHOO!!!
All this talk of bent tie rods...I've never bent one. Mine are 1/4" wall 1" OD DOM and prior to the histeer, I absolutely thrashed them, even leaving dents on the front diff cover FROM the tie rod. Granted, histeer is much nicer, but I never had issue with them down low. Also, mine in "stock" location just barely cleared the bottom of the leaf packs, so they were pretty protected anyways.
i put the short end of my leaf springs in the front and on compression it sent the pinion angle right up to the oil pan way too steep for a drive shaft to work so i had to flip them around again and they work just fine with my soa and reversal,lost a little more wheel base of which i was after
i made my own tie rod out of 1/8th wall tubing, 3/16 wall tubing inside that and hiems. drilled out the steering arms and put a grade 8 bolt through it. also, my steering arm set up is a passenger arm flipped and welded to the existing one. i have rock chips in the paint and no dents or bends. cost to make TR $60. only problem is with the stock center arm, the drag link end hits the spring if DS is compressed. (have SOA, SR and spring turned 180) i am putting in a Saginaw PS setup now to help remedy that and get rid of the 8" of play in the steering that's even after mini truck PS installed.
those 4x4labs steering arms are looking real appetizing though!