Crazy idle, stalling 'bruiser HELP (1 Viewer)

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beachcruiser

beachcruiser

Joined
Nov 25, 2004
Threads
24
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169
Location
Austin TX area, by way of the Outer Banks of NC
Website
www.nooktinyhomes.com
Hey guys... I have a 94 LC w/ 180k mis. ARB/ K&N..Sliders soon...and it has recently gone thru a intermittent CEL issue, now followed by either :

a) at startup it fires and then dies, or
b) it starts and idles REALLY low and I have to keep on the pedal to keep it from stalling
c) while running it stays at a constant 1500 rpm's without touching the gas, and when shifted into neutral or park it revs from 1500-2100 rpm again and again. When I am sitting in a parking lot it starts going off and it has to sound like I am either going to try to race the nearest SUV or am trying to get the cruiser goosed into flight!
d) idle jumps to 3000 rpm until I shift into drive or reverse, and it drops to 1200 rpm
e) all of the above in rapid succession

I cleaned the TB this past weekend and the throttle response is great, however the idle and stalling and goofy revving is still biting my A#$... I checked the intake tube and did not see any visible cracks, but I may give it a more thorough exam tonite... I have not had the CEL recently, so I wonder if it would be worthwhile to check the codes... Thanks in advance :eek:
 
"I wonder if it would be worthwhile to check the codes..."

Yes. It only takes a few seconds to do and it's free so...
 
I'd immediately recheck that intake tube very carefully - you really have to pull it completely off.
I'd get rid of the K&N and put a factory filter back in.
I'd disconnect the throttle cable at the throttle, pull back the rubber boot and dribble some liquid graphite down it while pulling the cable up and down to distribute it. You'll smell it in the interior for about a week, but it dissipates.
I'd recheck for a vacuum hose that somehow got knocked off - especially under the intake manifold near the tranny dipstick where I've knocked mine off before.
I'd lube the gas pedal pivot linkage with anything handy while ensuring there's no interference with the carpet/floor mat.

DougM
 
Thanks fellas... I am going to check the codes (once I figure out why I do not have a t1 jumper!) and give it a once over... If I need to replace the intake or the MAF, where do you suggest I get it from? Thanks again.
 
Alright fellas... No problem with the intake tube, looks great and once off it gave me another shot of my sparkling TB (just cleaned it last week)... The TB gasket is not the issue, as this was rearing its ugly head before I did the TB work. A visual inspection of all of the vacuum tubes looks OK. I can not check the codes because even though I am a 94, I do not have a T1 pin to connect to the TE1... Strange. Any ideas? Maybe the MAF? Today the idle when in park or neutral would surge from 1200-2200 rpms repeatedly. When in drive it would idle at 1200 -1500 rpm, which is making stopping an adventure, considering I am working against the engine to bring the beast to a stop. If you guys have any ideas on how to check codes or other ideas on the cause, let me know... Thanks for your help!
 
Is the throttle cabe adjusted correctly and is the cable moving freely in the casing?
 
I just went out and verified the cable and lubed it... The 1mm per the instrcutions on the tech section here gave me too much slack, so I adjusted the cable until it was tight, but not actively pulling on the throttle assembly. Of course, being an intermittent problem, it seems fine for now, but I have some driving and pulling landscaping crap for the yard, so if it not fixed, I am sure it will be back this afternoon!
I suspect that it is not the cable because of the surging idle...it occurs independent of the gas pedal, and when driving with the idle running high (1500 rpm), when I even barely touch the gas, it immediately jumps to 2200 rpm... That seems like an TB/ MAF issue... I think. Thanks for the help, and as always, your suggestions are really appreciated.
 
i think it is e1 and te1 but do not take my word for it.

a bad engine temp control sensor could do this. Have a look at your t-stat housing and see if there are any signs of leakage onto the sensors.
 
semlin said:
i think it is e1 and te1 but do not take my word for it.

a bad engine temp control sensor could do this. Have a look at your t-stat housing and see if there are any signs of leakage onto the sensors.
Click to expand...


Excellent point. I had a small coolant leak which I've since repaired and the truck would idle erratic at times. I finally realised it was when the coolant level had dropped and allowed an air pocket to form in the block.

Once the leak was fixed and a few drive cycles to get the air out of the system completely the truck idles nice and solid.
 
Interesting... I actually had to refill the resevoir b/c it was empty... I attributed this to a 55 mph meeting with a steel cattle fence which blew out the radiator( and my flimsy stainless brushguard...good excuse to get ARB'd) , and I suspected the mechanic had just not topped it off... The radiator coolant level is fine, and the resevoir level has not dropped... Could there be air in the system still? I topped it off 2 weeks ago....
 
Check the big intake hose or tube whatever, the big rubber thing that runs from the EFI to the air fitler..INTAKE thats what I was looking for. Mine was cracked and I had the same problems you were having. I had to keep it revved to keep it from stalling. You can tape up the hose to get it to a mechanic if you use one.
 
My experience with those symptoms was with a 91 right after a front end collision that did not damage the rad but for which the rad was removed and reinstalled to facilitate other repairs. the symptoms were just as you describe for a few days and then it also started throwing a bad eengine temp sensor CEL code. It eventually took a new temp sensor to fix the problem after a flush and new t-stat did not fix it. I suppose it might have started off as an air gap problem that then damaged the sensor because ine additional symptom was a dash temp gauge that went crazy (up and down like a yo yo) which confused me at the time because the dash gauge sensor is different from the etc sensor. the dash gauge worked fine later.
 
Interested about the temp sensor... My CEL has not come back on for a few weeks now (after TB cleaning), but the throttle adjustment did not do the trick... It was back to roaring up and down the rpm range last night, so it looks like I am back to square one... I am about to try the e1 and te1 jumper trick to get my codes, but I dont want to have to buy and ECM (ECU?) too, so if anyone knows what pin I would use considering that I dont have a t1 pin (I have the te1), it would be appreciated. Would I even get any codes considering the CEL light is not on? This moay be the only option I have without going the route of throwing $$ at replacing parts one at a time to try to isolate it.... (and I dont have the $$ to throw at it!)... CDan, what does a temp sensor run (and poss. a MAF?) Thanks guys....
 
Has anyone tried to start an L/C with the MAF unplugged?

The reason I ask this is because when Volvos and Saab's had an issue such as this, we would unplug the sensor and if the problem went away then we knew it was the sensor that was bad. I have not tried this with a Japanese F/I system yet. Before I condemned any part on this vehicle I would check wires for continuity back to the ECU. Harnesses seem to be rather fragile on these beasts.
 
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