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Crankshaft pulley bolt

Discussion in '80-Series Tech' started by Wayne, Nov 21, 2003.

  1. Wayne

    Wayne Bought by His blood, kept by His power

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    Attempting to replace the front crankshaft oil seal and breaking the bolt loose has become a challenge. What is a good technique to break it loose ???

    thebadfairy
     
  2. clownmidget

    clownmidget SILVER Star

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    from George S's website, go check it out if you aren't familiar with it.
    http://www.geocities.com/george_tlc/scharger.html

    The fun step in the whole installation is the removal of the crank pulley bolt - this is a 304 ft.lb bolt! Removal is relatively easy, use a big breaker bar with a 30mm socket. Unplug the high tension lead going fom the coil to the distributor - so the engine can't start. Next get your volunteer helper to brace the breaker bar against the chassis (the engine turns clockwise!) - then hop in the driver's seat and 'pulse' the starter for a moment - this broke my crank pulley bolt loose on the first attempt. Get a good breaker bar - on Amando's installation we broke the breaker ;) Amando generously replaced it with a new Craftsman (lifetime warranty....) breaker.

    After removing the crank pulley bolt, you need to attach the TRD supplied supercharger drive pulley onto the crank pulley with the replacement bolt - 32mm head. The challenge is to torque the new bolt down - 304 ft.lbs remember! The trick is to lock the engine somehow because with the auto transmission the engine will turn quite freely. Toyota has an SST, I decided to save a big piece of change and make my own - have plasma cutter and welder, will fabricate ;) The following picture shows the result - not pretty (in a rush and freehand cut) but functional. The hole in the middle is to allow the replacement bolt with it's washer to clear the tool. The two small holes allow the 'locating' bolts to bolt the tool 'through' the TRD pulley bolt holes to the original crank pulley (threaded holes). The welded 1/2" drive socket allows a breaker bar to lock the engine. A torque wrench with 32mm socket is then used to torque on the new crank pulley bolt. Once torqued up, the two locating bolts are removed, the tool is removed and the two locating bolts are re-installed.
     
  3. cruiserman

    cruiserman

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    I fabbed a retaining bracket to hold the pulley while torquing on the bolt to remove and install it. I used heavy angle iron and cut it so that it was long enough to rest on the frame. I drilled 2 holes for the bolts in the pulley and ground out room for the 30mm socket. It bent a little but worked.

    I used a 24" breaker bar with a 3' pipe extension to break it loose.

    Edit:
    I didn't use the starter method, because my starter was removed.
     
  4. BigMac

    BigMac SILVER Star

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    I used one of Harbor Freight's 24" chain pipe wrenches. Slit a length of fuel line to encase the chain and wrapped it around the pulley. It fit perfectly, barely. Then I used the starter method. Popped free on the first impulse. BigMac
     
  5. Wayne

    Wayne Bought by His blood, kept by His power

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    I just finished the front crankshaft oil seal replacement, and the starter, breaker bar routine worked great :D. I used the help of a friend to loosen it and tighten it. It broke loose on the first bump. We used a large punch placed through a flex plate hole to stop engine rotation, and then used a jack handle over the breaker bar handle to tighten it :D :D.

    I discovered another oil leak during this repair :p. The crankshaft position sensor is leaking, and according to the local Toyota parts guy, there is no gasket or o-ring to replace ???. So, what's causing it to leak? Anybody have any experience with this leak?
    A new sensor is $112.00 :mad:

    thebadfairy :cheers:
     
  6. cruiserdan

    cruiserdan SupportingVendor Emeritus Moderator

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    An important footnote to the starter-bump method:

    A) It does work.

    B) It is a dangerous trick, remember that.

    I WOULD NOT use a 1/2 inch breaker, I was personally associated with TWO high quality 1/2 inch breakers being broken using this method on two different 1FZ engines. PLEASE, PLEASE, use 3/4 inch drive tools for this method. In addition, BE ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN that the bar is tight against the RH frame rail before you hit the key. Any wind up and it could go flying and break something on the vehicle or injure anyone near it. DO NOT LET ANYBODY NEAR THE FRONT OF THE VEHICLE WHEN YOU HIT THE KEY.

    I apologize for harping so much about this but God Damn it, it's dangerous. PERIOD.
     
  7. Junk

    Junk

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    I saw my dealer mechanics 1/2" breaker bar snap with a pipe extension on it. He could not fit a 3/4" impact down there. He'd been fawking with it for about 1/2 hr and I was getting impatient, so I grabbed my IR Thunder Gun out of the back, and handed it to him. We made a quick bet :flipoff2:, which he lost, and it was out real quick. I told him to keep it, as a tip for doing the s/c install, but to just keep taking good care of me. I then bought another to keep in the truck full time. :D
     
  8. Gumby

    Gumby Supamod Staff Member s-Moderator

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    Ingersoll-Rand does the trick for me. :D
     
  9. landtoy80

    landtoy80

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    This is the torque wrench you need to torque the bolt to 304 flbs