CRANK NO START 5.7 IFORCE-NOT WHAT YOU THINK (1 Viewer)

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So, I have have had a crank no start intermittent issue for 2 years. No codes thrown. Finally it threw a code last month, #2 misfire. Replaced #2 Coil with Denso new Coil and all 8 plugs with new Densos.

Truck has sat most of the last month. Go to run the truck last weekend, and throws #2 misfire again, rough running, check engine light flashing, etc.... Turn the truck off for a couple of hours and come back out and it runs fine.

Took to a Toyota specialist and they are looking at the #2 injector currently by swapping to another cylinder and then driving around to see if they can get the misfire to move with that injector.

They have never replaced an injector on a 5.7 and they have admitted this seems odd, and they are not even seeing this issue on their online resources.

Has anyone had this issue? 2010 Tundra 5.7 Non Flex Fuel 262k miles, bypassed AIP 40k miles ago as well.
 
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One injector is very unlikely to cause a no start. If I was a betting man, id say you have a crank sensor or reluctor issue
 
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W
One injector is very unlikely to cause a no start. If I was a betting man, id say you have a crank sensor or reluctor issue
wouldn't it throw a P0335 code if it was a crank position sensor?

Also, what is a reluctor...I’m not familiar with that term..? Thank you.
 
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You clearly aren't having a hard failure. So no it's not necessarily going to throw code.
The reluctor ring is what the sensor reads.

Ftr, im not really familiar with the 5.7, but I am Toyota style.

If you have a damaged tooth or a piece of shyt blocking the signal its going to do random /weird shyt.
 
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Well guys, somehow it looks like I have a slightly blown head gasket. Very rare in these engines but non the less this is what they are thinking it is.
 
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Replaced coil under the cylinder 2 misfire

all spark plugs changed

at this point I had a fella something else was going on so I now moved truck to new mechanic who I’ve been told only works on Toyota/Honda for many decades



moved injector to the other side of fuel rail still misfires #2

No other codes

2 hairline cracks in radiator

He says it’s very rare but on the 4.0 and 5.7s he’s seen this twice on each

They are using the industrial stop leak that requires a heating up and cooling down process

$250

Says it’s worked on all of the ones he’s done, 4 in total...all of them have the same code and rough engine running issues mine does

says let’s wait to do radiator to see if this works before spending any other money
 
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So, I have have had a crank no start intermittent issue for 2 years. No codes thrown. Finally it threw a code last month, #2 misfire. Replaced #2 Coil with Denso new Coil and all 8 plugs with new Densos.

Truck has sat most of the last month. Go to run the truck last weekend, and throws #2 misfire again, rough running, check engine light flashing, etc.... Turn the truck off for a couple of hours and come back out and it runs fine.

Took to a Toyota specialist and they are looking at the #2 injector currently by swapping to another cylinder and then driving around to see if they can get the misfire to move with that injector.

They have never replaced an injector on a 5.7 and they have admitted this seems odd, and they are not even seeing this issue on their online resources.

Has anyone had this issue? 2010 Tundra 5.7 Non Flex Fuel 262k miles, bypassed AIP 40k miles ago as well.
Just because it doesn't throw codes does not mean the semsor integredy is not good. Does the ecu drivers send the fire signal to the coils? Only way to troubleshoot stuborn no starts is have a scanner monitor live outputs to all sensors and fuel pump. Let it log the outputs. Btw does the rpm needke bounce? That means ignition cops getting signal. Also..no start in parking lot often means fuel pump failure. If it does it again whack side if tank with rubber mallet. If truck starts means fuel pump needs to be changed.
 
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Just because it doesn't throw codes does not mean the semsor integredy is not good. Does the ecu drivers send the fire signal to the coils? Only way to troubleshoot stuborn no starts is have a scanner monitor live outputs to all sensors and fuel pump. Let it log the outputs. Btw does the rpm needke bounce? That means ignition cops getting signal. Also..no start in parking lot often means fuel pump failure. If it does it again whack side if tank with rubber mallet. If truck starts means fuel pump needs to be changed.
Looks like I have a head gasket leak, very very rare on the engines without a supercharger, but yes I am one of the lucky ones....
 
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Looks like I have a head gasket leak, very very rare on the engines without a supercharger, but yes I am one of the lucky ones....
Interesting. I know there's a lot of really interesting ways of detecting a head gasket leak and I absolutely hate least when I was much younger doing head gaskets but I've done a lot of them in my time. You can have a bridge break between two cylinders so with the pressure from one piston is pushing pressure into the cylinder of another adjacent cylinder. Another way is looking at the spark pattern a plug if that's even possible. Cuz the way the spark which show is it has water in Justin into that cylinder.
 
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Interesting. I know there's a lot of really interesting ways of detecting a head gasket leak and I absolutely hate least when I was much younger doing head gaskets but I've done a lot of them in my time. You can have a bridge break between two cylinders so with the pressure from one piston is pushing pressure into the cylinder of another adjacent cylinder. Another way is looking at the spark pattern a plug if that's even possible. Cuz the way the spark which show is it has water in Justin into that cylinder.
Oh by the way what makes you think it's head gasket leak?
 
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Oh by the way what makes you think it's head gasket leak?
Also another way of indicating you've got a water/ antifreeze leak is do I pressure leak of the cooling system. Have a shop use a CO2 sniffer used for emissions and stick it over the neck of the Overflow bottle and detects CO2 coming out of the bottle. The last thing is removing the O2 sensor and if it's frosted White that's the antifreeze that's being burned into the sensor. I really don't like being a mechanic anymore in fact I regret leaving cat up because you could take the bus anywhere twice as many buses in Vancouver vs Seattle and you can take the SkyTrain.
 
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Going to get 2nd opinion but we’ve replaced the #2 coil with the misfire, same issue a couple weeks later. Noticed coolant reservoir low and found micro cracks in the radiator. Also swapped the injector to another cylinder, still my number 2 misfire. With scan tool at mechanics fuel pump pressure, ECU output all looks fine with live scanning while driving and misfire is taking place.

But I’m really starting to lean towards a head gasket. Will be interesting to see what 2nd opinion says.
 
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So, I have have had a crank no start intermittent issue for 2 years. No codes thrown. Finally it threw a code last month, #2 misfire. Replaced #2 Coil with Denso new Coil and all 8 plugs with new Densos.

Truck has sat most of the last month. Go to run the truck last weekend, and throws #2 misfire again, rough running, check engine light flashing, etc.... Turn the truck off for a couple of hours and come back out and it runs fine.

Took to a Toyota specialist and they are looking at the #2 injector currently by swapping to another cylinder and then driving around to see if they can get the misfire to move with that injector.

They have never replaced an injector on a 5.7 and they have admitted this seems odd, and they are not even seeing this issue on their online resources.

Has anyone had this issue? 2010 Tundra 5.7 Non Flex Fuel 262k miles, bypassed AIP 40k miles ago as well.
Did you get an answer? a Snap-On scanner will actually least I believe it will check the frequency of the injectors but it's also a good idea to have a Snap-On scope to measure the frequency of the injectors
 
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I have a similar problem, I am looking into a prospective buy, read the Lexus maintenance records, 2010 LX. It says 4LO was flashing and there were the two codes P0441, P0456 INCORRECT PURGE FLOW AND SMALL LEAK DETECTED IN EVAP. Car was brought into dealership 4 times with the same problem, they ran smoke tests leak tests, gas cap replacement but couldn't clear it. Car was traded in by owner as a result. Next records indicate more work was done in the order 1. Crankshaft position sensor was replaced (which is strange since it is a P0335) 2. Charcoal cannister replaced and 3. Battery replaced Don't see a purge solenoid replacement. Any insights as to what could be happening here. Do you think the unit associated with EVAP is damaged or could the issues run deeper since Crank Position sensor was replaced? Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
 
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Never got a clear cut answer unfortunately. Removed the thermostat and there was a bunch of junk on it. Dealer and my local mechanic had never seen it before. Flushed the cooling system, put in a new thermostat, ran the car for a week in high summer heat with no issues.

Soon after that my company sent me an email telling me I had to buy a newer car if I wanted to keep getting monthly reimbursements. Great, during Covid I need to buy a newer car...aces.

I sold it to the tech who did the work. Haven’t heard anything since.
 

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