Crank but No Start (title change) (1 Viewer)

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Chiming in late, but are you comfy replacing your injectors? Get some Amazon cheapos and throw them in there and get your OEM ones serviced. If the issue stops, the OEM rebuilds should outlast the truck when you swap them back in.
That’s a thought. More than I’ve personally done, but with a friend who has access to a shop it may be something I can knock out. I’m guessing there may be a YouTube video floating around out there.
 
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Not likely heat causing increase leak down. It could but not likely. I say this because, things expand and tighten with heat.
Good point. Is there a potential electrical issue you see? I ask, b/c Like my door lock actuators that act up when the truck has been sitting in the sun, it seems like high heat increases the frequency of it happening. In my mind, that goes back to a relay or something like that.
 
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Excessive fuel injector leak down:

The "sign" would be long crank after extended period of setting (engine off). With faster start up after recent shut down.

One line of thinking is: Just one bad, and fuel rail pressure may drop. Than it takes extra cranks to bring pressure back up.
Here’s a video of the looong crank I’m experiencing. The ground at the back of the engine bay on the fire wall is tightly secured.
 
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You've not said how long it sat, engine off.

Difficult to say because I can't hear the crank. If you wait for all dash indicator lights and chimes to stop, I may with hood and window open!

I counted 4 seconds (5 less 1 sec from time you say "here-we-go" and then lights come on).. Not terrible at all, but a bit long.
Could be minor leak down, which some is within spec.

You also mention sometimes sluggish crank. That I would suggest a longer crank than the 4 seconds. This would be either very cold morning, like -10 F OAT here in Denver. We'll get sluggish starts, as engine oil so cold/thick. But you've mention when hot OAT. This indicate resistance in wiring or starter motor, reducing AMP to starter. Not Denso starter? Porr rebuilt Denso starter (often have contact not seated firmly and squarely), corrosion in wiring or battery post oxidation, weak battery, ground corrosion or loose, etc can inhibit AMP to stater, more so when hot..
 
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You've not said how long it sat, engine off.

Difficult to say because I can't hear the crank. If you wait for all dash indicator lights and chimes to stop, I may with hood and window open!

I counted 4 seconds (5 less 1 sec from time you say "here-we-go" and then lights come on).. Not terrible at all, but a bit long.
Could be minor leak down, which some is within spec.

You also mention sometimes sluggish crank. That I would suggest a longer crank than the 4 seconds. This would be either very cold morning, like -10 F OAT here in Denver. We'll get sluggish starts, as engine oil so cold/thick. But you've mention when hot OAT. This indicate resistance in wiring or starter motor, reducing AMP to starter. Not Denso starter? Porr rebuilt Denso starter (often have contact not seated firmly and squarely), corrosion in wiring or battery post oxidation, weak battery, ground corrosion or loose, etc can inhibit AMP to stater, more so when hot..

Sorry about that. The truck had been sitting 3.5 - 4 hours. In looking back at the video, it appears to be 6-7 seconds of it cranking before it turns over. I'll confirm the brand of starter with the mechanic that installed it. I know the alternator is a reman'd denso that i picked up at O'Reilly since it came with a warranty - in hindsight, I wish I had eaten the core charge and had what was in it rebuilt . . . assuming it was original since I bought the truck in '04 with 45k on it.

On the sluggish comment, I don't know that I would say the cranks are sluggish, but rather at times when it turns over the engine runs sluggishly just for a moment - it seems that is when it cranks for a longer period of time. I'll make note of that when it happens again and for now I'll video every time I start so I can show how it may vary. In my mind that's it trying to get fuel, but i'm by no means an expert of very knowledgeable about these things . . . just trying to trouble shoot it and see if I can find the problem myself since I'm several hundred deep and no better off.
 
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You've not said how long it sat, engine off.

Difficult to say because I can't hear the crank. If you wait for all dash indicator lights and chimes to stop, I may with hood and window open!

I counted 4 seconds (5 less 1 sec from time you say "here-we-go" and then lights come on).. Not terrible at all, but a bit long.
Could be minor leak down, which some is within spec.

You also mention sometimes sluggish crank. That I would suggest a longer crank than the 4 seconds. This would be either very cold morning, like -10 F OAT here in Denver. We'll get sluggish starts, as engine oil so cold/thick. But you've mention when hot OAT. This indicate resistance in wiring or starter motor, reducing AMP to starter. Not Denso starter? Porr rebuilt Denso starter (often have contact not seated firmly and squarely), corrosion in wiring or battery post oxidation, weak battery, ground corrosion or loose, etc can inhibit AMP to stater, more so when hot..
So here’s another video with the window open - I didn’t experience the long crank here, but the Engine seemed a little sluggish When it fired. Truck had been sitting 15-20minutes. Visited with mechanic and fuel pressure was tested when they replaced the cam shaft position sensor late last year. They didn’t think it’s a fuel pressure issue since it can sit over might and fire right up the next morning, indicating it’s not bleeding off. I can follow that logic and if correct, does that lead back to a relay or sensor of some sort- EFI relay, crankshaft position sensor, some other relay? Do those types of parts have intermittent issues like this? In the long crank scenario what would a relay or sensor be down and then decide to work?
 
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Hi Mudders,



(You can skip the intro and head straight to issue in the last 2-3 paragraphs)



Hi Mudders,

I’d like to start off and say this forum was a big help when I decided to purchase my Land Cruiser earlier this year and I thank you.

(Kind of an intro) In early January, a started looking for a new car since my truck lease was coming to an end. A buddy of mine, who has a knack for finding things, found a 2000 Land Cruiser for sale from a private seller. I really knew nothing about LC/LX470s but once I started digging and researching, I came across a few resources, including this site. I can honestly say, I fell in love with them. The fact that these vehicles were made w the purpose of lasting for 25 years in a 3rd world country had me hooked.

So I went on the prowl and eventually came across a 2006 Land Cruiser with 227k miles from a local dealership in Wisconsin. I made a few “mistakes” when I test drove it. For instances, I didn’t turn the stereo on because I wanted to listen for any odd ball mechanical noises. Later I found out all the speakers were blown. An easy fix but nonetheless, it could have had the dealership fix it.

Moving on, Part of the purchase agreement was to have the timing belt replaced, which they did. The night I went to pick it up, it was freezing outside. My wife and I took it for a spin around the block and I found that the heat wasn’t working. It was as if the AC was stuck in the “on” position. I took it right back to the dealership and the sales folks tried to get the heat to work to no avail. Unfortunately it was late so I had to leave the LC overnight since the place was closing and no mechanics were working.

The following day, I contacted the dealership and they advised the heat worked and they couldn’t simulate last night’s issue. I chalked it up to a “one-time-it’ll-never-happen-again” issue. Btw, that’s not the case, about a month or two ago, the heat stopped working again.

The day I picked it up, I drove it straight to Florida for a family trip, which was about a 15-16 hour drive. A few hours into the drive, my wife noticed water was dripping on her feet around the front passenger floorboards. I found that condensation was building up just underneath the glove box. At this point, you can only imagine how frustrated my wife and I were at this point. But I searched this site and they seemed like easy fixes. We trucked on to Florida and it was a smooth ride. I fell in love w the LC.

Once we arrived in Florida, I immediately went to closest Best Buy and bought two speakers for the front doors followed by a kit to get rid of the hazing and Yellowing of the headlights. Once everything was replaced and fixed, the needle sunk a little deeper and I was hooked on the LC.

To the problem at hand. About month ago, I was going to head to work when I tried starting the LC and it wouldn’t start. The starter sounded normal but the engine wouldn’t turnover. I found that the battery was low. I trickle charged the battery to a full charge for a day. About 5 to 7 days later, same problem. I recharged the battery and again same problem.



Without testing anything, I assumed the battery was going bad so I replaced it roughly two weeks ago. Yesterday, I ran into the same problem. So last night, I recharged the battery and this morning tested the battery w a multimeter. (Video link attached)
  • LC off 12.67
  • LC running idle 14.17 but there was a moment it dropped down to 12.96 for a split second and came back up to 14.17
  • LC running around 2000 rpm 14.19-14.20
iCloud

Could the issue be a faulty alternator? Not sure if this helps but mu driving habits are pretty simple; 10 mile drive to and from work, mostly freeway.



Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Mudders
I had this issue as well. Cranks and all seems good by wont turn over. Sometimes there is nothing wriong with the car. It is a LC100 ya know! My issue was with the key fob. Either the battery is dead, but more likely the chip inside the fob has gone bad. Dont ask me how or why??? Try a different key if you have one or else get a new key at Home depot. Cost about $80 just for the chip key, no remote. I now carry 2 keys with me at all times. A month ago the one key didntt workj and the other did. Usually they both work. Frustrating as you can imagine.
 
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In looking back at the video, it appears to be 6-7 seconds of it cranking before it turns over.

I had this happened to me immediately right after I put in new Denso fuel pump as preventive maintenance. Mine was a 8 seconds crank before started. Shorter crank time when I shut it down and then started it immediately. Same problem with second new Denso pump. Third brand new Denso fuel pump fixed the problem.
 
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Little Rock, AR
I had this issue as well. Cranks and all seems good by wont turn over. Sometimes there is nothing wriong with the car. It is a LC100 ya know! My issue was with the key fob. Either the battery is dead, but more likely the chip inside the fob has gone bad. Dont ask me how or why??? Try a different key if you have one or else get a new key at Home depot. Cost about $80 just for the chip key, no remote. I now carry 2 keys with me at all times. A month ago the one key didntt workj and the other did. Usually they both work. Frustrating as you can imagine.

I've got many keys . . . or parts of keys . . . the way its designed, they fail where the metal meets the plastic after a bit. I've always ordered the blank keys which will hold the remote (still have the 2 remotes that came with the truck when I bought it in '04) through Ebay or the like and a local toyota dealer cuts the keys for me. Is the chip in not part of the remote portion?
I had this issue as well. Cranks and all seems good by wont turn over. Sometimes there is nothing wriong with the car. It is a LC100 ya know! My issue was with the key fob. Either the battery is dead, but more likely the chip inside the fob has gone bad. Dont ask me how or why??? Try a different key if you have one or else get a new key at Home depot. Cost about $80 just for the chip key, no remote. I now carry 2 keys with me at all times. A month ago the one key didntt workj and the other did. Usually they both work. Frustrating as you can imagine.
i have many keys … or parts of keys … with the ways it’s designed it like to fail around the screw that holds the cover over the remote. I actually just bought 2 more but haven’t had them cut yet. I still have the remote components for the 2 keys that came with it when I bought in ‘04 and just install them in the new case - have experienced this with both keys. So your saying the chip is part of the remote, but can get a key with just a chip that works and just not have a remote?

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I had this happened to me immediately right after I put in new Denso fuel pump as preventive maintenance. Mine was a 8 seconds crank before started. Shorter crank time when I shut it down and then started it immediately. Same problem with second new Denso pump. Third brand new Denso fuel pump fixed the problem.
Medtro - did you have any issue exchanging the pump under warranty? I'll have to look back to see how long ago that my pump was replaced . . . thinking its been a couple of years now so I may be SOL on the warranty front.
 
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I had this issue as well. Cranks and all seems good by wont turn over. Sometimes there is nothing wriong with the car. It is a LC100 ya know! My issue was with the key fob. Either the battery is dead, but more likely the chip inside the fob has gone bad. Dont ask me how or why??? Try a different key if you have one or else get a new key at Home depot. Cost about $80 just for the chip key, no remote. I now carry 2 keys with me at all times. A month ago the one key didntt workj and the other did. Usually they both work. Frustrating as you can imagine.
Stachecki - I found the key with programmable fob for $28 on remotesremotes.com so I've ordered one and we'll see what happens . . . if nothing else I'll have a third key/remote.
 

ramangain

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I had this happened to me immediately right after I put in new Denso fuel pump as preventive maintenance. Mine was a 8 seconds crank before started. Shorter crank time when I shut it down and then started it immediately. Same problem with second new Denso pump. Third brand new Denso fuel pump fixed the problem.
Excellent info, thx
 
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Medtro - did you have any issue exchanging the pump under warranty? I'll have to look back to see how long ago that my pump was replaced . . . thinking its been a couple of years now so I may be SOL on the warranty front.

Yes and no, due to my fault for hanging onto the defective pump for too long. I ended up paying for 2 of the 3 pumps.
 
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Any test that can be done on the pump to determine if that is the culprit or is the long crank the only symptom?

I would check fuel pressure. In my case, it triggered P0171 code after driving for a few minutes. Gas mileage got down to 8 MPG. Eventually got the engine to crank and no start for good. YMMV.
 
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I had this issue as well. Cranks and all seems good by wont turn over. Sometimes there is nothing wriong with the car. It is a LC100 ya know! My issue was with the key fob. Either the battery is dead, but more likely the chip inside the fob has gone bad. Dont ask me how or why??? Try a different key if you have one or else get a new key at Home depot. Cost about $80 just for the chip key, no remote. I now carry 2 keys with me at all times. A month ago the one key didntt workj and the other did. Usually they both work. Frustrating as you can imagine.
Well it doesn't seem to be the key - got the new key with remote cut and programmed it. It will start the LC and open the doors, but I still experience the loooong crank periodically. My mind keeps going to it being a fuel issue - maybe what Medtro described he experienced or injectors leaking and flooding it out. Guess I need to find time to leave at a shop so they can have a fuel pressure gauge hooked up while the start it periodically - and pray that it acts up while they have it - buy one to have or see if Autozone has a loaner. How difficult is it? Having flashbacks of shadetree mechanic trying to help with with an old S-10 Blazer when I was in high school and him pulling the fuel line and starting a fire when gas fell on the hot engine . . . main wiring harness and a couple of hoses later . . .
 
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Turns out my issue was the fuel pump not holding pressure. Since that was replaced I’ve not had it happen again. That’s not say that there hasn’t been another issue with it not starting - all dash lights and accessories come on, but nothing, nada, zilch under the hood. At first I thought battery was weak due to age, but my jumper box didn’t help nor jumping it off a suburban. I won’t bore you with the drama, it if you have that happen try shifting it to neutral and see if it starts. That has been the trick for me when it has recurred and seems to point to a faulty transmission position sensor.

Happy New Year!
 

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