Crank but No Start (Solved) (2 Viewers)

[Phallen]

Edit (07-10-2022): My infamous “Crank, No Start” issue has been solved. The wiring harness that led from the Crankshaft Position Sensor and the Oil Pressure Sending Unit were damaged and the PO attempted to repair it, which I was not made aware of when I purchased Gracie. After removing the damaged wiring and replaced the plugs, the issue was remedied.

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Hi Mudders,



(You can skip the intro and head straight to issue in the last 2-3 paragraphs)



Hi Mudders,

I’d like to start off and say this forum was a big help when I decided to purchase my Land Cruiser earlier this year and I thank you.

(Kind of an intro) In early January, a started looking for a new car since my truck lease was coming to an end. A buddy of mine, who has a knack for finding things, found a 2000 Land Cruiser for sale from a private seller. I really knew nothing about LC/LX470s but once I started digging and researching, I came across a few resources, including this site. I can honestly say, I fell in love with them. The fact that these vehicles were made w the purpose of lasting for 25 years in a 3rd world country had me hooked.

So I went on the prowl and eventually came across a 2006 Land Cruiser with 227k miles from a local dealership in Wisconsin. I made a few “mistakes” when I test drove it. For instances, I didn’t turn the stereo on because I wanted to listen for any odd ball mechanical noises. Later I found out all the speakers were blown. An easy fix but nonetheless, it could have had the dealership fix it.

Moving on, Part of the purchase agreement was to have the timing belt replaced, which they did. The night I went to pick it up, it was freezing outside. My wife and I took it for a spin around the block and I found that the heat wasn’t working. It was as if the AC was stuck in the “on” position. I took it right back to the dealership and the sales folks tried to get the heat to work to no avail. Unfortunately it was late so I had to leave the LC overnight since the place was closing and no mechanics were working.

The following day, I contacted the dealership and they advised the heat worked and they couldn’t simulate last night’s issue. I chalked it up to a “one-time-it’ll-never-happen-again” issue. Btw, that’s not the case, about a month or two ago, the heat stopped working again.

The day I picked it up, I drove it straight to Florida for a family trip, which was about a 15-16 hour drive. A few hours into the drive, my wife noticed water was dripping on her feet around the front passenger floorboards. I found that condensation was building up just underneath the glove box. At this point, you can only imagine how frustrated my wife and I were at this point. But I searched this site and they seemed like easy fixes. We trucked on to Florida and it was a smooth ride. I fell in love w the LC.

Once we arrived in Florida, I immediately went to closest Best Buy and bought two speakers for the front doors followed by a kit to get rid of the hazing and Yellowing of the headlights. Once everything was replaced and fixed, the needle sunk a little deeper and I was hooked on the LC.

To the problem at hand. About month ago, I was going to head to work when I tried starting the LC and it wouldn’t start. The starter sounded normal but the engine wouldn’t turnover. I found that the battery was low. I trickle charged the battery to a full charge for a day. About 5 to 7 days later, same problem. I recharged the battery and again same problem.



Without testing anything, I assumed the battery was going bad so I replaced it roughly two weeks ago. Yesterday, I ran into the same problem. So last night, I recharged the battery and this morning tested the battery w a multimeter. (Video link attached)

• LC off 12.67
• LC running idle 14.17 but there was a moment it dropped down to 12.96 for a split second and came back up to 14.17
• LC running around 2000 rpm 14.19-14.20

iCloud

Could the issue be a faulty alternator? Not sure if this helps but mu driving habits are pretty simple; 10 mile drive to and from work, mostly freeway.



Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Mudders

 

[FxFormat]

Seems like the voltage regulator on the LC is going bad, you can try to rebuild it or i'd just get a new unit. It shouldn't be fluctuating like that, mine starts out on cold starts at 14.1 then as the truck warms up it'll be steady at 13.7V using my scan gauge.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Seems like the voltage regulator on the LC is going bad, you can try to rebuild it or i'd just get a new unit. It shouldn't be fluctuating like that, mine starts out on cold starts at 14.1 then as the truck warms up it'll be steady at 13.7V using my scan gauge.

x2

 

[2001LC]

Few things to consider:

~15 yrs old and 227K miles. It needs thorough base-lining. Don't assume just because it's a Land Cruiser, it doesn't need maintaining. 98 out of 100 are not PM properly during their life, even if Dealership maintained.

Cabin heat:
Number one reason for low cabin heat, is issue with coolant system. Either low coolant (in radiator), weak thermostat or even float obstruction like piece of plastic from old heater Tee in coolant system. Also the HVAC sensor may need servicing.


Starting / battery / charging:
This is a confusing statement to me.
" To the problem at hand. About month ago, I was going to head to work when I tried starting the LC and it wouldn’t start. The starter sounded normal but the engine wouldn’t turnover" Starter sounding normal, means engine turning over (cranking, but no start).

If the engine was turning over (cranking) and the security light on console off (not blinking) with key in. This "may" be indicating a weak fuel pump, or neutral lock-off switch of transmission issue. Other condition can cause crank no start, but those are most common.

If was engine was not cranking. Than based of battery/alternator statements; Likely low voltage.
If voltage was above ~12.7v and no crank, could be early warning of starter contacts failing.

I'd check for parasitic draw on battery. The drop down DVD, in some land cruiser/LX470, have a parasitic draw on battery. I've seen things like a "deer horn" added be a practice draw also. Any after market electronic (which DVD are) can draw on battery key off. I can't tell how many alternators I seen replaced, that were good, for this reason. As always clean battery post and grease them. 12.67 volt pre start before any draw on battery is low battery voltage. The 06-07 do not like low battery, some will act like bad starter around 12.4v.


Water dripping in PS foot well:
I cleaned 2 different HVAC filter area and drains last week. Both needed new seal in condenser face plate. I could not get my hands on OEM seals (gaskets) fast enough, so I made some from butyl, worked good.
Once cleaned and resealed. I filled filter area with water as a test. No leak and drain worked fine. I actual ran water in through filter trap door (filters out) with a garden hose on one.

 

[Phallen]

2001LC,

You just blew my mind away. Thank you for the remedies for the many problems. I’ll definitely run through them tonight and get back to you.

Youre absolutely correct regarding what I meant about cranking.

So When I did the battery test earlier in the day, the battery was at full capacity. I just went out and tried to start it. I ran into the same problem. When I hooked the trickle charger up to the battery, it showed it was low again. Any idea how to check for parasitic draws? The LC does not have a dvd / tv system and there’s no aftermarket parts other then the door speakers I added in late February

 

[2001LC]

Google parasitic draw on car battery. You'll finds a number of methods. Make sure to have doors closed and key away from area for at least 15 minutes, before beginning.

 

[Phallen]

thank you. Btw, your build you have linked in this thread is phenomenal. I’m definitely going to try and follow it moving forward with my LC

I’ll definitely update this thread w the results

 

[trdcorolla]

Google parasitic draw on car battery. You'll finds a number of methods. Make sure to have doors closed and key away for area for at least 15 minutes, before beginning.

This and arm the alarm too (you want the car to be in sleep mode), but keep the hood open so you can start the parasitic draw test after 15 min

 

[Phallen]

Thanks, trdcorolla. I’ll definitely keep that in mind.

For anyone, looking for a “how to” video for diagnosing parasitic drawl, check this video out





and this one. Different technique

 

[Phallen]

Last night, before I came home, I had my wife try and start the LC. Lo and behold it worked. Just 5 hours earlier, the engine would crank but wouldn’t start. She drove it up the driveway, no problem.

When I got home, I attached the trickle charger to the battery and it read the battery wasnt fully charged. So I charged the battery and began with the method in the first video above.
.

First Method

I disconnected the negative battery terminal and attached a multimeter to the negative battery terminal and to the negative battery wire. The meter read there was a very small drawl. I don’t remember the exact numbers but it wasn’t concerning so I tried thesecond video’s method.

Second Method

I popped the hood, closed all the doors and activated the alarm. I waited 20 minutes and tested each fuse. All the fuses in the fuse box were not pulling a drawl after 3-4 seconds of attaching the multimeter.

I’m taking the battery back to batteries plus to have it tested.

any ideas where I should go from here.

*This weekend, I’ll be re-doing each test again with my son since he wants to learn w me. I’ll record the numbers and post here. *

 

[2001LC]

With low voltage, what I see is no crank, like with a dead starter.
Security system has a draw, at all times including when key is out of range. Also if headlight switch set to "auto", it also has a draw from solar cell (button) on dash.

The fact yours cranks always, but starts only sometimes, and security light always goes off when IG key inserted, is a clue.

Your primary issue is not low battery, but crank no start as I understand it.

Repost:
"If the engine was turning over (cranking) and the security light on console off (not blinking) with key in. This "may" be indicating a weak fuel pump, or neutral lock-off switch of transmission issue. Other condition can cause crank no start, but those are most common."

If intermittent issue with shifter switch, easy to determine. Just shift to "N" each time it cranks without starting. If it then starts, it 98% sure it's the neutral switch.

Fuel pump is more difficult to pinpoint as the issue, without fuel pressure gauge set up. Even than, we get false readings. But one thing that "may" give additional clue, is; Pinch off fuel return line Edited: Pinching could damage line! after getting a crank no start. See if pinching increases fuel pressure enough so it will start. I covered a pair of needle nose vise grips with fuel hose to protect fuel return line, as I pinched it off.

Fuel return line come off back of intake manifold fuel rail on DS. The engine cover has a hanger for the fuel return hose. It is the only hose that clips to the engine/valley cover.

This is not a VVT engine like yours. But return line is in same spot. The fuel line come from fuel filter and goes to fuel rail at same point dampening device sets. Fuel travels around the intake manifold (IM) in the fuel rails. Fuel return line comes from fuel pressure regulator on PS/bank 2 fuel rail, than wrapping around back side of IM, pass by the dampening device.

 

[Phallen]

After doing the check for a parasitic drawl Tuesday night, I figured I really need to take note of anything and everything when the LC started and when it didn’t.

Wednesday, early afternoon, I decided to drive the LC to a local running track. The LC started fine and the drive was smooth. I parked the LC in the parking lot that had no shade and rolled the windows up as I usually do. 45 minutes later, I returned to the LC and attempted to start it to no avail. Same issue; it would crank but wouldn’t start. I took note The LC read it was 95 degrees inside the passenge compartment. A little frustrated, I had to leave it there and race to work. Later on that night, I returned and attempted to start it. When I got in the LC, it was still warm inside from sitting in the sun. I attempted to start it but same problem persisted, engine would crank but wouldn’t start.. I had to connect a jump pack to get her started but it took a second or two of cranking for it to start. I drove the LC a block and parked it at a substation my job runs. I figured, I would come back in the morning.

Thursday, late morning, my wife drove me out to the LC. It was already warm outside, roughly high 70’s. I noticed the LC was parked in the shade and when I got inside it was very cool, maybe 60 degrees. I went to start the LC and it started right away as if she was brand new again. Blew me away but I took note of the conditions; parked in the shade and interior was cool. I drove it home and parked in the shade and left the windows open.

Two hours later, I started the LC and again it started right away. I drove back to the same local track and parked in the shade and left the widows down. It was roughly 80 degrees and sunny. After 45 minutes, I returned to the LC and it started right away. I drove it home and parked in the shade, windows down. An hour later, i drove to work and it started right away. I work downtown and park in a parking structure so it’s always shaded and cool.

After work, the LC started right away.

I’m going to try the tests suggested 2001LC this weekend when I’m off.

by chance, could excessive interior heat cause issues or could this be a coincidence?

 

[2001LC]

Your temp reading on center dash, is OAT (Outside Air temp).

Again assuming your security light is off during each time you crank engine. Provided you're not touching the shifter at all. Fact that higher OAT (95F) seems to bring on a crank with no start condition. Is further clue of fuel pressure issue.

I say this because heat increases resistance in wires and motors. As resistance goes up, AMPs to fuel pump motor drops. Fuel pump strains to generate proper RPM/pressure. Whereas we do have interior fuel related relays & controls, they're likely okay. New Fuel pump & fuel filter would be my next step, after one more test.

Test:
I'd leave in the sun on black-top and get really hot, to recreate no start. Once you've a no start again: then pinch off fuel return line Edited: Pinching could damage line! and try to start. Best to have 12.6 volts or more at battery at the time, so you get a good strong crank. Make sure to wrap tool you use to pinch fuel return line, so as to not damage fuel line. This test is not a test I've tried, during a no start. But if it starts, it one more clue of fuel pressure issue.

I've seen 2 of these type of issue this year. Where I replaced fuel pump and fuel filter. curing the issue.

 

[jerryb]

don' discard the idea of the MAF, the temp sensor and the coolant sensor. Other info.... the vvti LC will start at 12.4-5 vdc with the stock battery. ALL else being normal. IT's not high compression, it's not that hard to start. if you see 12.4-5 on a cold start morning before cranking, after a surface charge is scrubbed off, assume a dead cell. Not you if the battery is new.
I wouldn't bet on the voltage regulator or the battery or the alt. But they all are cheap. regulator is easy replace job.
The pump maybe. It's so hard to test for a new person, owner without the right tools. I'd skip it. If it doesn't stumble wide open throttle then it probably isn't it. Still, a 100$ job replacing, more cheapness.
The cam oil control connectors, the crank sensor, the cam sensor all could force a no start. Broken clips, connectors, etc.
Bad MAF might or might not prevent a hot or cold start.
bad temp sensors for sure can be a no start thing.
Once you're dialed in it will not leave you anywhere. Mine never has.

Once your battery voltage is sound at all times narrow it down temp wise.
If you're quick with the techstream curve all that could be handled pretty fast.
I'd be pretty easy to say buy the denso fuel pump just because. You'll need it anyway in the long run.
I'd replace the sense fuse, just because.
Id unplug the maf and try to start it, notice any change, just because.
I'd look at the temp sender plug, i'd take it out and test it on the stove.
I'd look at the maf connector and the cam oil valves both sides, Top. and the sensors down by the drivers side bottom of cam.

it's not hard to keep it going. Steeper curve for you though since it's got issues, minor ones it seems though.

oh, clean the maf and throttle butterfly real quick.
Start at the top though, voltage first.

IF you put a battery tender on it that blinks green @12.8 or 13 V, very quickly you'll see it settle at 12.6-7 V at all times. Assuming stock everything. The second you see lower than 12.6 on a cold morning dead, it's lost a cell or you have a not so great drain.

 

[Phallen]

For the past few days, I’ve been trying to recreate the “heated interior” scenario but each time, the truck has flawlessly started.

Late last night, I tried to start the truck but ran into the same issue; crank but no start. I drove the truck earlier in the day, which started with no issue, but at the end of that run, I filled the gas tank up from a 1/4 tank to a full tank. I kept the truck running while i filled her up.

So last night, I did the neutral switch test; I placed the truck in neutral and attempted to start with the same result (crank but no start).

I followed with the fuel pump test; I pinched down on the Fuel Return Line while my wife turned the key. The truck started on the 4th try and was throwing a code, P0335A (Crankshaft Position Sensor “A” Circuit).

Could the issue be the crankshaft position sensor? I also found it odd after I filled the gas tank up, I started having the issue again.

 

[2001LC]

P0335A could be the wire leading to the sensor. I've seen rodent chewed them. Also seen many, where after a timing belt job, the wire was routed wrong. Wire than rubs on drive belt and or pulley, cutting wire. Once in a blue moon the sensor goes bad on it's own.

Clamping fuel return line and not starting until 4th try (auto crank I assume), "may" also point to fuel pump. If weak fuel pump, clamp line would take time to build back pressure in fuel rail. So that is just one more clue. We'd want to repeat and see happen again. Buy at age/miles, a new fuel pumps is a good idea anyway.

But first I'd work on the crank sensor code. This may be only issue. Could be you have 2 issues at same time.

 

[2001LC]

These may help you get oriented.

 

[2001LC]

You may have had a pending code along.

 

[Phallen]

I agree with replacing the fuel pump since it already has 230k+ miles on it. I ordered a new CKP sensor and seal along with a new denso fuel pump kit through Napa today. I’ll retrace the sensor wire and get back tonight

 

[Phallen]

So I’m finally getting to replacing my fuel pump and ran into a problem. I purchased a Denso brand fuel pump but when I pulled the old one out, it looks like someone used an aftermarket pump so the wiring plug is different Smh. Nothings ever easy