ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
^ MauserMan and his ECU cape to the potential rescue!
Crank but No Start and No Comms with ECU via OBD2 port - 1999 Landcruiser (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Igoteyedeas
- Start date
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I am in the process of diagnosing a no start fault, but I wanted to be prepared in case the ECU is bad.
I own a 1999, but I will let you know if I need one. Thank you for replying.
Hello! Just curious if you happen to have access to any more ECU’s? I have a 2014 Toyota Tundra. Never had a single issue it at all. Has around 175000 miles on it and runs like a top until last Tuesday. I couple weeks ago my battery mysteriously was dead and had to jump it. Never thought anything about it. Then last Tuesday I drove it about 100 miles away then went to start it and I have always turned the key to the “on” position to make sure I hear the fuel pump prime but I didn’t hear it. So I went ahead and tried to start with no luck. Tried 2 more times and battery completely died. So, I thought the battery was bad so I replaced the battery and tried to start again and still no prime from the fuel pump. But it cranks extremely well but will not fire. Thought for certain it was my fuel pump. Had to get it towed to a local shop who gave me the run around only to find out that he could not communicate with ecm to check if there were any codes. So, his conclusion was it was a bad ecu. I’m still questioning it but it could be very possible that is the issue.
Cruiser community,
I finally came across this thread after banging my head for weeks now. I just purchased a 98 land cruiser to replace the 1999 that was totaled by a guy running a red light as i was turning left. 2014 mustang was the sure loser in the match.
The list of symptoms noted by the original poster are near identical. I do have two pieces of information that may seperate me from a bad ECU. The first, is that the truck actually starts and runs for approximately 3 seconds before it dies. The second is that Im fortunate to have a donor land cruiser in which i swapped the 98 ECU into along with the key cylinder and was able to establish com with the ECU via the OBD. Equally, i was unable to establish com when i swapped the 99 ECU into the 98 just as i was unable to establish com with its factory ECU. Help please. Oscilloscopes and Klines are way beyond my scope.
Work thats been done so far in an effort solve the problem are as follow:
-All new fuses
-Replaced the EFI relay, which did take me from a crank/no start to a start and die in 3 seconds
-New Fuel pump and filter (pressure is great)
-New crank position sensor, TPS and MAF
-Swapped out the fuel pump ECM
-new coils and plugs
Swapped engine compartment fuse box
-obd port has power and the data line from the port to the ECU has continuity
Should probably note that it runs great for those three seconds.
Any thoughts and/or experiences would be greatly appreciated.
Brent
I finally came across this thread after banging my head for weeks now. I just purchased a 98 land cruiser to replace the 1999 that was totaled by a guy running a red light as i was turning left. 2014 mustang was the sure loser in the match.
The list of symptoms noted by the original poster are near identical. I do have two pieces of information that may seperate me from a bad ECU. The first, is that the truck actually starts and runs for approximately 3 seconds before it dies. The second is that Im fortunate to have a donor land cruiser in which i swapped the 98 ECU into along with the key cylinder and was able to establish com with the ECU via the OBD. Equally, i was unable to establish com when i swapped the 99 ECU into the 98 just as i was unable to establish com with its factory ECU. Help please. Oscilloscopes and Klines are way beyond my scope.
Work thats been done so far in an effort solve the problem are as follow:
-All new fuses
-Replaced the EFI relay, which did take me from a crank/no start to a start and die in 3 seconds
-New Fuel pump and filter (pressure is great)
-New crank position sensor, TPS and MAF
-Swapped out the fuel pump ECM
-new coils and plugs
Swapped engine compartment fuse box
-obd port has power and the data line from the port to the ECU has continuity
Should probably note that it runs great for those three seconds.
Any thoughts and/or experiences would be greatly appreciated.
Brent
I am not a mechanic, so take don't take me serious.
1, Could be fuel cutoff valve.
2, You said you replaced the crank sensor, maybe its one of the cam sensor but before you replace cam or crank sensors you can test them with multimeter to be absolutely sure that it's a faulty crank or cam sensor.
3, Make sure air filter is clean.
4, Let someone start the car and you keep spray carburetor cleaner into the throttle body, if you car runs longer than 3 seconds with carburetor cleaner spray that would indicate issue is somewhere in fuel delivery.
Really need to get the fault codes and if possible take a look at live data.
If you're not able to connect to the data port then your ecm is not getting power. It's a basic power source that feeds off a 15A fuse that's in line with the No1 igniter relay.
Throw a meter on the ecm to check the voltages at connector E9. I believe pin 6 is for the data port. Also check you voltages for the immobilizer. There are 5 pinouts to check, 12,13,14,20, and 21.
Ill look into these things first thing tomorrow and report back. Quick question, whats responsible for regulating the reference voltage? I tried an older bluetooth obd and it reported back that the voltage was too low to establish communication. Aeems consistent with a low reference voltage at the TPS. Same result when i swap in the ECU from my donor 99 LC. Thanks for the help.
Probably very different situations. The inop data port low voltage may just be low +B voltage, again; check the circuit voltage from the ecm to the relay.
The tps voltage is measured at 0.3 up to 5.1 volts depending on the throttle position.
There are 4 wires on the ecm at connector #6 to measure the throttle voltage.
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