Crank bolt tight, still have issues? Real time help needed!

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Crank bolt tight, still have issues? Gearbox bypass?

OK,

So I took a couple weeks off the project. I came back to the 80 project and decided to haul it to the dealer to have them properly torque the crank bolt.

They swear they have it to 305 ft lbs, and still I have low PS assist. Oil pressure seems a bit low, but within specs.

I'll attack it as separate issues for now.

So far, they have replaced the pump, no change.

Replaced the gearbox, no change.

Cleaned some sand from the powder coater out of the PS reservoir, and now some change, but assist goeas away quickly after start up, and fluid gets hot.

Bypassed the aftermarket PS cooler, for now.

Current plan is to reseal the gearbox.

Any other ideas?
 
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I'm a loss for words. Everything points to that gear slipping.

I agree, according to the theory, one would expect that would do the trick. They are all scratching their heads.

The service manager suggests using a shim to allow more pressure on the gear? I am not sure how much that would help, but who knows. It seems to me that the 305 ft lbs of torque would acomplish that.
 

NaterGator

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Perhaps something else (oil pump, PS assist) was rebuilt slightly wrong and is binding or causing a lot of resistance, and is forcing that gear to slip?

What happens if you pull the plugs and try to turn it by hand? Maybe it will feel more 'sticky'
 

sleeoffroad

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We had a 97 & a 93 motor apart last week. There is a keyway for the crank pulley on both cranks. On a 97 that has both the reluctor ring for the crank position sensor there is no connection between the key and the oil pump gear.

Both have slots that allow them to slide over the gear. The reluctor ring sits over the key.

On the 93 that does not have the crank position sensor the oilpump gear is wider and does actually sit partially over the key but it is not keyed. The slot in the gear is wider than the key.

Clear as mud ?
 
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We had a 97 & a 93 motor apart last week. There is a keyway for the crank pulley on both cranks. On a 97 that has both the reluctor ring for the crank position sensor there is no connection between the key and the oil pump gear.

Both have slots that allow them to slide over the gear. The reluctor ring sits over the key.

On the 93 that does not have the crank position sensor the oilpump gear is wider and does actually sit partially over the key but it is not keyed. The slot in the gear is wider than the key.

Clear as mud ?

C, very muddy. So you are saying the gear that turns the oil pump gear and subsequently the PS gear is, or is not keyed? My understanding was that the drive hear on the crank was NOT, hence the atomic torque required.
 
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If you did it I would just have to recommend taking it off and doing it again.
But now that the dealer is in on this I think it is for them to do.
You took it to the pros to have them fix it.
They did the normal procedure but it did not have the expected results.
Head scratching is not acceptable from them.
Something is amuck. Perhaps you need to find the old tech with the grey hair and make sure he is in on this crankbolt retightening.
PS - I have a front crankseal in my garage but don't have the balls to mess with it yet. Thats some serious torque.
 
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If you did it I would just have to recommend taking it off and doing it again.
But now that the dealer is in on this I think it is for them to do.
You took it to the pros to have them fix it.
They did the normal procedure but it did not have the expected results.
Head scratching is not acceptable from them.
Something is amuck. Perhaps you need to find the old tech with the grey hair and make sure he is in on this crankbolt retightening.
PS - I have a front crankseal in my garage but don't have the balls to mess with it yet. Thats some serious torque.

I asked them to do just that. Torque it again. We'll see what they say next.

In the interim, they did put me in a loaner. A new Tundra with the big V8. A real screamer. I still prefer the 80, though. This rig they let me drive has a towing package, and I get the idea it would pull anything. FYI.
 

landtank

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The only way that the right torque was applied and the gear was still slipping is that the crank bolt bottomed out against the crank shaft.

As remember it, there is a collar that goes onto the crank shaft before the drive gear goes on. We'll need Dan to confirm this as I didn't see it in the FSM. If that is excessively worn or missing you would not get the needed clamping force on that gear.
 
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Just a thought...there is also a key on the gear of the PS Pump itself. It would be pretty easy to pull the PS pump and ensure this is keyed. :confused:
 
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Just a thought...there is also a key on the gear of the PS Pump itself. It would be pretty easy to pull the PS pump and ensure this is keyed. :confused:

Thanks Scamper, but I am aware, and have had the PS pump off enough times to do it in my sleep. I'm quite certain the key is present.

Think about it. If that were the problem (missing the PS gear key), we would not have low oil pressure in addition to low PS assist.

Thanks for playing stump the chump.

This chump is still stumped.
 

sleeoffroad

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C, very muddy. So you are saying the gear that turns the oil pump gear and subsequently the PS gear is, or is not keyed? My understanding was that the drive hear on the crank was NOT, hence the atomic torque required.

Not keyed, but on a 93/94 motor, if it slipped, it will catch the key and stop it from moving.
 
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(Caution, wild-ass speculation below)


What if the crank postion sensor ring is missing?

Can you pull the sensor out of the pan and look up in the hole to see if the sensor is there?

The 80 is at the dealer, and they are sure the crank bolt is tight. They said they took it to 315 ft lbs. So they are certain that is not the issue.

Pulling the crank sensor may be a good idea. What will they be looking for? To see if it's missing?

D
 

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