Cracked lead battery terminal (1 Viewer)

[ConcreteCruiser]

Boneheaded move: I overtightened negative terminal and cracked it. I'm planning on replacing it with a mil spec one, cutting off the negative wire connections to the existing terminal and attaching them to the new mil spec terminal. Is this a mud worthy fix? Are there better solutions? Here's the negative terminal with a c-clamp holding everything together until there's a fix.

 

[LS1FJ40]

This is what I am using. You'll have to take the ground off the block in order to crimp a terminal ring end on it but I think this is the cleanest look. And factory looking setup. Especially if you have a dual battery system or plan to add one down the road.

 

[maxamillion2345]

Mil spec and crimp/solder/heatshrink a new lug to the cable.

Dont waste your time with the pathetic OEM or marine or auto store junk.

 

[LS1FJ40]

Mil spec and crimp/solder/heatshrink a new lug to the cable.

Dont waste your time with the pathetic OEM or marine or auto store junk.

You mean the pathetic OEM that has been lasted 20+ years on the positive cable?

 

[4G63 POWER]

Pics of the milspec?

 

[ConcreteCruiser]

Mil specs are not to be found locally so I ordered one online. I'm going to attach this to the negative lead wire. That positive lead could be 20y old!

 

[gbeltran]

This is a mil-spec end. Very durable and very useful, lots of room for add-ons.............

 

[retrofive]

This is a mil-spec end. Very durable and very useful, lots of room for add-ons.............

View attachment 1357515

That is what I use. Sidenote, whatever size I ended up using I had to enlarge the hole for the fusible links.

 

[maxamillion2345]

You mean the pathetic OEM that has been lasted 20+ years on the positive cable?

Yes thats the one. Dont cry about it. Its a stamped tin inferior piece of s***, it may have worked but if you're replacing theres absolutely no reason to put another back on. Get over it.

 

[tacoma2002]

I replaced the positive cable on my Tacoma with a OEM piece. Local dealer was $15ish several years back. The only reason I replaced it with OEM is because it was my DD at the time and no other parts house stocked a replacement end...nothing short of cutting off the wire ends and stripping them...

I'm in need of a positive cable end for my 80S and I'm thinking this Mil Spec end looks like a great option. Where are they cheaply obtained?

 

[LS1FJ40]

Yes thats the one. Dont cry about it. Its a stamped tin inferior piece of s***, it may have worked but if you're replacing theres absolutely no reason to put another back on. Get over it.

Yep. Piece of sh!t that only lasts 20+ years...

 

[retrofive]

I replaced the positive cable on my Tacoma with a OEM piece. Local dealer was $15ish several years back. The only reason I replaced it with OEM is because it was my DD at the time and no other parts house stocked a replacement end...nothing short of cutting off the wire ends and stripping them...

I'm in need of a positive cable end for my 80S and I'm thinking this Mil Spec end looks like a great option. Where are they cheaply obtained?

I just got mine off Amazon. There has been previous discussions on here with the quality of the various ones avail out there. I just took a chance and ordered what looked right. No issues so far.

 

[inkpot]

Around here most of the auto parts chains carry the Mil Spec terminals. I have used a lot of them on various vehicles over the years.

 

[maxamillion2345]

That is what I use. Sidenote, whatever size I ended up using I had to enlarge the hole for the fusible links.

Another option is to cut the ring terminal and spread it out a little rather than trying to drill it out or what have you.

Also to the OP, keep in mind + and - posts are different sizes and there should be two different part numbers for those mil spec terminals.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

I got mine from Amazon as well. Comes with everything needed to make it look nice.
Amazon.com: Military Spec Battery Terminal Top Post Kit: Automotive