Cracked cylinder head... fixable? (3 Viewers)

[rockcrawlingyota]

my engine locked up a few days ago so I decided to tear it down. As I'm pulling it apart somehow I crack the d@mn cylinder head on the driver side. I was thinking maybe I could jb weld it and put one of those coil things in the hole where the screw goes cause it's stripped out bad. The only thing that worries me about it is the bolt clamps down the cam and if it doesn't fit tight it might wobble and that would not be good. What do y'all think I should do? Try jb weld? Or buy a new cylinder head?

 

[lt1fire]

Crap... how did that entire piece come off?

 

[BullElk]

I am very curious why or how the engine locked up??

 

[Julian Stead]

Just get a used cylinder head

 

[rockcrawlingyota]

The whole piece came off cause I was prying the hell out of it with a prybar and it just cracked off. The engine locked up due to water getting inside of it somehow and it tried to compress the water in the cylinder and bent the connecting rod then came down and smacked the crankshaft and got wedged. I'm now thinking about putting stronger connecting rods, pistons and crank in so I'll have a bombproof bottom end. What do y'all think?

 

[Julian Stead]

Just get a used engine, fate is telling you not to repair this one, it just isn't worth the risk.

 

[Layonnn]

A bomb proof bottom end?
From what I have heard, most of the internals of the Japanese made 4.7s are forged. You know how often someone destroys one of these engines? (Not including doing something stupid like running it with no oil)
It's pretty rare. I would source new parts from Toyota through Beno (Onur) or get a used cylinder head as mentioned above. Personally think JB weld to hold a part of the cylinder head together isn't the best idea.

 

[gatormark91]

That cylinder head (and the motor) is done. Get a good used motor, slap it in, and don't think about it again. Unless you do something dumb to it, they are bombproof from the factory... It will end up being cheaper in the long run.

 

[2001LC]

I'm really trying to figure out what you were prying on, the cam?

 

[White Stripe]

A bomb proof bottom end?
From what I have heard, most of the internals of the Japanese made 4.7s are forged. You know how often someone destroys one of these engines? (Not including doing something stupid like running it with no oil)
It's pretty rare. I would source new parts from Toyota through Beno (Onur) or get a used cylinder head as mentioned above. Personally think JB weld to hold a part of the cylinder head together isn't the best idea.

4.7 connecting rods are like pencils. They are pretty wimpy. If anything goes wrong in the motor the connecting rods in a 4.7 are the first to let you know. The good thing is that things rarely go wrong with the 4.7.

 

[AimCOtaco]

Yeah, grab a used motor and drop it in.

 

[Julian Stead]

The most important thing you need to work out is why it hydro locked, how did the water enter the combustion chamber?. This is where you could upgrade and improve things possibly, if water went in through the air intake(check air filter) then fit a snorkel. If your heater tees are weeping and caused the head gasket to go then fit new or brass.

I don't think you could improve this engine for normal use as it is tried and tested with great success, its only weakness is not the engine itself, just the engine can suffer damage through external influences, which are well documented on this site. Heater tee's etc. Would a stronger con rod bend in the same situation, most probably as water doesn't compress and something has to give.

So get to the cause of the hydrolock then pop the used engine in, this is probably the best and cheapest repair you could carry out.

 

[lt1fire]

build the bottom end, get a used head and souce a SC for some fun

 

[2001LC]

So anyone have the "low down" on difference in 2UZ-fe & VVti?

Seems I saw the "History of the 2UZ-fe" some where! Now where as that!

I've heard there is difference in main cap for the series 100 IDK. Also that oil sprayers where added for the lower cylinders walls at some point possible VVti or even sooner. Which other vehicles have the same long block, I've so many question.
I'm thinking about blue printing a 07 2UZ-fe VVti, from a series 100 VX, now haven't done that in a while!

I could use all the data around?
Where do you find a VVti engine correct for the 100 series or does any VVti work?

 

[suprarx7nut]

Jb weld, no. But you could have a competent aluminum welder weld that back on and machine the gasket surface, mill the hole out again and tap for a helicoil.

Is that worth it when you could just get a used head? Probably not.

I'm also curious how you got water in there. That's a new one on me!

 

[sean2202]

JB weld will break down when exposed to gasoline or oil. I find it best used on small parts that are not under stress. As stated above an aluminum welder could fix that but why? Not cost effective.

Timeserts do work well for stripped threads in aluminum heads. They require less surface area than a standard helicoil or other thread insert.

Get a used 4.7 engine and call it a day.

Can we get some pictures of the other internal damage, connecting rod, crank pistons?

 

[Spike555]

So anyone have the "low down" on difference in 2UZ-fe & VVti?

Seems I saw the "History of the 2UZ-fe" some where! Now where as that!

I've heard there is difference in main cap for the series 100 IDK. Also that oil sprayers where added for the lower cylinders walls at some point possible VVti or even sooner. Which other vehicles have the same long block, I've so many question.
I'm thinking about blue printing a 07 2UZ-fe VVti, from a series 100 VX, now haven't done that in a while!

I could use all the data around?
Where do you find a VVti engine correct for the 100 series or does any VVti work?

The '06? And newer 100's have vvti, which then turns it into a interference engine. Personally I like my non interference engine with less moving parts.

 

[Spike555]

The whole piece came off cause I was prying the hell out of it with a prybar and it just cracked off. The engine locked up due to water getting inside of it somehow and it tried to compress the water in the cylinder and bent the connecting rod then came down and smacked the crankshaft and got wedged. I'm now thinking about putting stronger connecting rods, pistons and crank in so I'll have a bombproof bottom end. What do y'all think?

It does not matter how strongly you build a engine, hydro locking it will destroy it, if a con rod doesnt bend or break then a piston will and then you have scored cyclinder walls and if the scores are deep they cannot be honed out.