couple ?'s

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by peebles24, Oct 29, 2005.

  1. peebles24

    peebles24

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    I have a 91 that I love (first cruiser), However I want a forty. I love the looks of the hardtop 40's. I want a good rig for trail riding at Attica, IN. the ? is is there any year I should be looking for that will get me better options or the such. ? #2 is does anyone know where I can get a decent one for 1500.00 come tax time around the Indy area say 3-4 hundred mile radius.

    Thanks in advance

    Chad
     
  2. Hossdog

    Hossdog

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    I believe the only noteworthy year of the 40 is 1971.......strangely the same year I own. :D
     
  3. Mace

    Mace rock scientist.. Staff Member s-Moderator

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    Get what you can afford. the most you can spend.

    From there it is mods to make it better.
     
  4. peebles24

    peebles24

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    I was thinking of looking for a 77, same year I was born but was just wondering? Please if you can list reasons for why one year is better.
     
  5. Mace

    Mace rock scientist.. Staff Member s-Moderator

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    IMHO there is not a year that is BETTER than another.

    Just some that require more "update" work.

    the older tubs were stronger but the newer units had dis brakes....

    Basically buy the newest cruiser for the most money you can spend..
     
  6. peebles24

    peebles24

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    Thanks mace. what year is the last for US 40's?
     
  7. lone gunman

    lone gunman

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    79 to 83 have the best options available, and better birfield joint font ends (stronger) 76 and newer have disc brakes in the front. 79 to 83 pinions and tranny's have more splines (stronger) too.
     
  8. HawkDriver

    HawkDriver

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    83 was the last year. Early 60s through like 73 seem to have the classic old school characteristics and the mid 70s through 83s are a bit more modern. Duh, I know, but just look through as many pics as you can here and on google or somewhere and you'll get the idea of what the differences are. Amby doors and kick out windows are IMO the best body changes that the later ones have over the earlys.

    You're probably lookin at around 3-4k for a decent one (no particular year) unless you are super lucky and stumble across a great deal. Check Ebay for an idea of what your money can get you. However, some ebay cruisers go for way more than they're worth. Just use as a general reference. Check your local American Classifieds and you might find a steal under your nose.

    Good luck, and you'll love your 40 when you get it.

    :beer:
     
  9. YODA 88 62

    YODA 88 62

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    the 79-83 40s have more expensive and harder to find parts. get one that best fit how hard you plan to wheel it (lockers vs. open, big tires vs. small, ect.).
    best bet is to get one that is 76 or newer. they have a couple big benefits: 2f, disc brakes, axle strength
     
  10. brian

    brian SILVER Star

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    this is the perfect thread for the "use the search rant". :flipoff2:

    there isn't much different on a 70 then on a 78. but over those years small things changed almost every couple of yrs.
    your best bet is to find the most rust free one you can find fo da moneys yous got.
    a "clean" 71 would be alot better than a "holey" 78(78 being considered the holey grail by many).
    the best part about them is the ability to pretty much just bolt any of the upgraded parts from a later one, right on to an early one.
     
  11. Pighead

    Pighead Stop calling it an FJ

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    I prefer a pre-smog year. Most later pieces will bolt to an earlier Cruiser.
     
  12. Doug_S

    Doug_S

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    As the others said, paying what might seem like a lot now might be money well spent down the road. Projects are just that...unless you have the time to put in on them a project equals someone elses headache. I believe that in '79 Toyota went with power steering which is desirable to have. A lot of parts are still available from the dealership too. Just my .02.
     
  13. dfmorse

    dfmorse

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  14. MOfj40

    MOfj40

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    It's all a matter of personal preference.

    I like my 68 better than the mid 70s+ 40s because it's got a "classic" look- split hood, bib marker lights, overhead wipers, lift gate (still has doors in the back when you take the top off) T handle doors, ignition on the dash, old style emblems, etc etc.

    The trade off is F motor, drum brakes, no power steering. However, my F gets around fine, and the drums stop just fine as long as you keep them adjusted.

    Keep in mind that if you plan on wheeling and installing a locker, you'll want late 68 or newer. Pre 68 had course spline axles, which are much easier to break when locked. I think someone one this site is running locked coarse splines without problems, but the general rule is avoid them.
     
  15. mr_manny

    mr_manny

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    just so you get an idea of what's out there...
    no affiliation,.
    manny


    toyota LAND CRUISER - $500 (san jose west)
    72 FJ40 NO DOORS NO TOP WAS SOFT TOP..ENGINES OUT ON THE SIDE YARD TRANNY IN THE BACK ...
    http://www.craigslist.org/sby/car/106517671.html

    1969 Toyota FJ40- $1200obo - $1200
    http://phoenix.craigslist.org/car/104489971.html

    1973 Toyota FJ40 Landcruiser - $2000
    http://denver.craigslist.org/car/102300481.html

    1977 FJ40 Land Cruiser - $2000
    http://denver.craigslist.org/car/102146713.html

    1974 fj40 - $2000
    http://denver.craigslist.org/car/99751474.html
     
  16. trekker

    trekker

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    And there you have it! "most rust free" Enough said.
     
  17. tfdcruiser

    tfdcruiser

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    For my state AZ, 1974 is the cut off year for underhood smog equipment checks, which was a big plus for me since it allowed me to put in a 383 stroker without any problems. Any of the older fj's can be made as technologically advanced as the later models relatively easily and cheaply (if you are willing to do the leg work for parts) without the emissions or safety restrictions.
     
  18. peebles24

    peebles24

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    Where I live there is no smog checks, and I have all the parts to put together a 300 horse 283. I can do the mechanical and some body the cash is the hard part. Come tax time if I can't find one for the price the :princess: will let me spend I am going to have to dump that money in my dd 80. I really want a 40 though. I appriciate all the help. Sorry to be such a newbie but I couldn't find much doing a search, I still haven't figured out what keywords to use to get what I am looking for.

    Thank you,
    Chad
     
  19. B2BER

    B2BER

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    Since I have a 67, which is a 79 nowadays minus the frame, tub, top, I'd have to say get a 68 or newer no matter what. The 68+ will definetly provide a more modernized and upgrade-friendly platform to start with. I'll leave it at that ;)
     
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