couple ?'s

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I have a 91 that I love (first cruiser), However I want a forty. I love the looks of the hardtop 40's. I want a good rig for trail riding at Attica, IN. the ? is is there any year I should be looking for that will get me better options or the such. ? #2 is does anyone know where I can get a decent one for 1500.00 come tax time around the Indy area say 3-4 hundred mile radius.

Thanks in advance

Chad
 

Mace

rock scientist..
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Get what you can afford. the most you can spend.

From there it is mods to make it better.
 
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I was thinking of looking for a 77, same year I was born but was just wondering? Please if you can list reasons for why one year is better.
 

Mace

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IMHO there is not a year that is BETTER than another.

Just some that require more "update" work.

the older tubs were stronger but the newer units had dis brakes....

Basically buy the newest cruiser for the most money you can spend..
 
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79 to 83 have the best options available, and better birfield joint font ends (stronger) 76 and newer have disc brakes in the front. 79 to 83 pinions and tranny's have more splines (stronger) too.
 

HawkDriver

 
 
 
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83 was the last year. Early 60s through like 73 seem to have the classic old school characteristics and the mid 70s through 83s are a bit more modern. Duh, I know, but just look through as many pics as you can here and on google or somewhere and you'll get the idea of what the differences are. Amby doors and kick out windows are IMO the best body changes that the later ones have over the earlys.

You're probably lookin at around 3-4k for a decent one (no particular year) unless you are super lucky and stumble across a great deal. Check Ebay for an idea of what your money can get you. However, some ebay cruisers go for way more than they're worth. Just use as a general reference. Check your local American Classifieds and you might find a steal under your nose.

Good luck, and you'll love your 40 when you get it.

:beer:
 
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the 79-83 40s have more expensive and harder to find parts. get one that best fit how hard you plan to wheel it (lockers vs. open, big tires vs. small, ect.).
best bet is to get one that is 76 or newer. they have a couple big benefits: 2f, disc brakes, axle strength
 

brian

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this is the perfect thread for the "use the search rant". :flipoff2:

there isn't much different on a 70 then on a 78. but over those years small things changed almost every couple of yrs.
your best bet is to find the most rust free one you can find fo da moneys yous got.
a "clean" 71 would be alot better than a "holey" 78(78 being considered the holey grail by many).
the best part about them is the ability to pretty much just bolt any of the upgraded parts from a later one, right on to an early one.
 

Pighead

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I prefer a pre-smog year. Most later pieces will bolt to an earlier Cruiser.
 
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As the others said, paying what might seem like a lot now might be money well spent down the road. Projects are just that...unless you have the time to put in on them a project equals someone elses headache. I believe that in '79 Toyota went with power steering which is desirable to have. A lot of parts are still available from the dealership too. Just my .02.
 

MOfj40

 
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It's all a matter of personal preference.

I like my 68 better than the mid 70s+ 40s because it's got a "classic" look- split hood, bib marker lights, overhead wipers, lift gate (still has doors in the back when you take the top off) T handle doors, ignition on the dash, old style emblems, etc etc.

The trade off is F motor, drum brakes, no power steering. However, my F gets around fine, and the drums stop just fine as long as you keep them adjusted.

Keep in mind that if you plan on wheeling and installing a locker, you'll want late 68 or newer. Pre 68 had course spline axles, which are much easier to break when locked. I think someone one this site is running locked coarse splines without problems, but the general rule is avoid them.
 
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just so you get an idea of what's out there...
no affiliation,.
manny


toyota LAND CRUISER - $500 (san jose west)
72 FJ40 NO DOORS NO TOP WAS SOFT TOP..ENGINES OUT ON THE SIDE YARD TRANNY IN THE BACK ...
http://www.craigslist.org/sby/car/106517671.html

1969 Toyota FJ40- $1200obo - $1200
http://phoenix.craigslist.org/car/104489971.html

1973 Toyota FJ40 Landcruiser - $2000
http://denver.craigslist.org/car/102300481.html

1977 FJ40 Land Cruiser - $2000
http://denver.craigslist.org/car/102146713.html

1974 fj40 - $2000
http://denver.craigslist.org/car/99751474.html
 
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brian said:
your best bet is to find the most rust free one you can find fo da moneys yous got.
a "clean" 71 would be alot better than a "holey" 78
And there you have it! "most rust free" Enough said.
 
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For my state AZ, 1974 is the cut off year for underhood smog equipment checks, which was a big plus for me since it allowed me to put in a 383 stroker without any problems. Any of the older fj's can be made as technologically advanced as the later models relatively easily and cheaply (if you are willing to do the leg work for parts) without the emissions or safety restrictions.
 
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Where I live there is no smog checks, and I have all the parts to put together a 300 horse 283. I can do the mechanical and some body the cash is the hard part. Come tax time if I can't find one for the price the :princess: will let me spend I am going to have to dump that money in my dd 80. I really want a 40 though. I appriciate all the help. Sorry to be such a newbie but I couldn't find much doing a search, I still haven't figured out what keywords to use to get what I am looking for.

Thank you,
Chad
 
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Since I have a 67, which is a 79 nowadays minus the frame, tub, top, I'd have to say get a 68 or newer no matter what. The 68+ will definetly provide a more modernized and upgrade-friendly platform to start with. I'll leave it at that ;)
 
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