Couple of axle/knuckle questions (1 Viewer)

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Nov 15, 2008
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Tampa, FL
I'm in the middle of a complete rebuild of my front axle/ring/pinion/knuckles and brakes on 81 LC. I found out during research on here that it was actually a 55 axle housing someone put on my LC. After checking brakes and knuckles it looks like it is late 70s early 80s diff housing.

So my question is... I have completely disassembled one side without any issue. Got the axle and birfield out without a snag. Moved to the other side and there isn't enough play to get the birfield out of the knuckle, even when I line of the flat portion of the birfield to the knuckle bearings as described in Toyota manual. It is tough to put traction on a greased axle without any thing to pull on.. but its not at all like the other side. Any ideas? Could the axle be stuck at the ring gear? Can I loosen the knuckle bearings to get it out?

Second question is in regards to reassembly. The Toyota manual has 3 pages describing how to determine the thickness for knuckle arm shims with several special tools. It also describes preloading before tightening anything. Does anyone have experience with this? I'm replacing all the seals, shims and bearings. Should I just put the same thickness shims back?

Last question is about replacement parts. I bought a "complete" knuckle rebuild kit from Cruiser Outfitters. I looks like in only has enough seals for the outer knuckle seal but the inner is not included. My out seal metal frame is all bent from PO overtightening (which is why it probably leaked!). Looked at SOR and their kit doesn't include the inner seal either. Don't understand why a complete kit would only include 1 of 2 seals... especially when they always leak!

Thanks for all the help. Can't believe I got this far into the rebuild with little issues!:beer::beer:

CD
Axle.JPG
 
Joined
Nov 15, 2008
Messages
146
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Tampa, FL
Just wanted to say a quick thanks to Sam Stewart at Lowe Toyota. Called him today for some knuckle studs, wheel hub studs and tie rod boots and he was all over it. My local toyota kept screwing up the parts and had no idea what I was talking about. Sam is my new Toyota factory parts guy.
 
Joined
Nov 11, 2009
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So Cal
It is possable that the axle is stuck in the side gear. If the end of the axle is threaded, some are, try a screw and a slide hammer. Line up the flat sides as you mentioned and tap, tap, tap on the hammer. Don't get too agressive. Just break loose the grip of the splines in the side gear. If there are no threds maby clamp a pair of vice grips onto the end and then use the slide hammer.
If the knuckles were working ok, turning smoothly with slight drag then reuse the same shims in the same order as they were removed.
 
Joined
May 3, 2004
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Utardia
You should be able to pull the trunion caps and remove the knuckle housing from the axle. Once that is done, turn the birfield downwards, and then stick a prybar through the truniong bearing hole and wedge it on the back of the birfield and give it a good pull. That should disengage the inner splines from the spider gears and pull the shaft out enough that you should be able to straighten the birf and remove it.
 
Joined
Nov 15, 2008
Messages
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Tampa, FL
Thanks, got a slide hammer for free at advance auto, going to try it this afternoon. Apparently, they rent them for a deposit, and you get a refund if you return them. They had about 20 different tools to rent.
 
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Jan 29, 2003
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Peyton, CO
Second question is in regards to reassembly. The Toyota manual has 3 pages describing how to determine the thickness for knuckle arm shims with several special tools. It also describes preloading before tightening anything. Does anyone have experience with this? I'm replacing all the seals, shims and bearings. Should I just put the same thickness shims back?
Yes, keep track of all shims and put them back where they came from. Keep top shims on top and bottom shims on bottom.

When you reassemble with new trunion bearings check the preload and then only adjust the shims as necessary to get proper preload. Generally just a small amount of adjustment, or none at all is necessary. I assemble the knuckle without the cone washers when checking the preload and instead use 2 or 3 flat washers on each stud to protect the taper seat in the arm and the nut. This makes it easy to take back apart (not having to fight the cone washers again) especially if you have to do it several time to get the right preload. Once I have the right shims, I do final assembly with the cone washers.

Last question is about replacement parts. I bought a "complete" knuckle rebuild kit from Cruiser Outfitters. I looks like in only has enough seals for the outer knuckle seal but the inner is not included. My out seal metal frame is all bent from PO overtightening (which is why it probably leaked!). Looked at SOR and their kit doesn't include the inner seal either. Don't understand why a complete kit would only include 1 of 2 seals... especially when they always leak!
No kits I've used include the metal wiper retainers. You can use a small hammer and a flat surface to tap them back into shape. There are aftermarket ones that are thicker if you wanted to go that route. They are a bit pricy.
 

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