Cost to fix oil leaks? Help? (1 Viewer)

Joined
Sep 24, 2014
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129
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North Tx
So I appear to have two oil leaks in my 62. First is rear main seal. Second is oil pan/Gasket. My local toyota specialist wasn't too concerned and said he could fix them in the spring. I don't like leaks. I took her to the local toyota dealership today. They are supposed to give me an estimate on labor and they charge $105/hr. What should I expect a repair like this to run?? How many hours should this take??
 
Joined
Mar 30, 2011
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5,310
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Huntsville AL or Yuma AZ
id say anwhere from 1k to 1200 in labor alone. I just did a rear main seal and oil pan gasket on my 87 fj60. the oil pan took four hours to reseal with clean up time. The dealership I work at typically only charges two hours labor to reseal a pan but if they know what they are getting into then they should quote you anywhere from ten to 12 hours for the rear main and oil pan together.
 
Joined
Sep 24, 2014
Messages
129
Location
North Tx
Update: I am hoping that changing the oil pan and gasket will do the trick, but I'm bracing for the worst. After running the engine, she'll leak about a silver dollar size puddle of oil
 
Joined
Oct 19, 2013
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2,366
Location
NY
I had good luck getting my oil leak at the rear main seal to go away.

I bought a can of Seafoam, put half the can into the oil in the crankcase, ran it for ~100 miles, and then did an oil change with new filter.

Then, when I added the new oil, I replaced ~1 quart of oil with the Lucas Oil Stabilizer.

I did this for a couple of consecutive oil changes, and I also replace the PCV grommet and cleaned the OEM PCV valve in a plastic baggie with some Seafoam overnight and new hoses for the PCV line...

The leak through the rear main seal went away. I don't know if it was because the crankcase was pressurizing (stuck PCV valve?) or that the Seafoam or Lucas Oil Stabilizer softened up the rear seal, but it no longer leaks...

Also, check/replace the valve cover seal. If it has breaks in it, even though there isn't pressure under the valve cover, enough oil with get out over the span between oil changes for you to notice...
 
Joined
Mar 30, 2011
Messages
5,310
Location
Huntsville AL or Yuma AZ
I had good luck getting my oil leak at the rear main seal to go away.

I bought a can of Seafoam, put half the can into the oil in the crankcase, ran it for ~100 miles, and then did an oil change with new filter.

Then, when I added the new oil, I replaced ~1 quart of oil with the Lucas Oil Stabilizer.

I did this for a couple of consecutive oil changes, and I also replace the PCV grommet and cleaned the OEM PCV valve in a plastic baggie with some Seafoam overnight and new hoses for the PCV line...

The leak through the rear main seal went away. I don't know if it was because the crankcase was pressurizing (stuck PCV valve?) or that the Seafoam or Lucas Oil Stabilizer softened up the rear seal, but it no longer leaks...

Also, check/replace the valve cover seal. If it has breaks in it, even though there isn't pressure under the valve cover, enough oil with get out over the span between oil changes for you to notice...

dude I hate to burst your bubble but your not going to fix an oil leak with seafoam
 
Joined
Jan 17, 2005
Messages
5,362
Location
Southern Colorado
I just replaced my oil pan gasket - a time-consuming, filthy job. Totally fixed my leak, which was silver-dollar to tennis-ball sized and somewhat random. Careful inspection revealed that the gasket replaced in 2000 had a problem - the end of the gasket under the crank fell into the pan. This created a big void and a big leak. Very satisfying to get it sealed. I would sure do the pan first before pulling the transmission to do the rear main, unless you're absolutely certain that the rear main is also leaking. I spent quite a bit of time determining that it was only my pan that was leaking.
 
Joined
Nov 16, 2004
Messages
1,100
Location
Simpsonville,SC
Just did my pan about two weeks ago. It is time consuming but not something to pay for if you are on the fence about giving it a try. Plenty of good info about doing it.
 

gregnash

Anal Retentive Analyst
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Joined
Nov 4, 2011
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12,010
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Carson City, NV
Yeah what @SteveH said. I have a rear main leak and the way I was told to pretty much determine that was to pull the flywheel inspection cover and see if A) there is oil in the bottom of the cover, and B) if the flywheel has oil splattered on it. Mine has both.
 
Joined
Nov 16, 2014
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11
Location
Blue Mountain Beach
I know how you feel about leaks.

To play devils advocate, if they're slow leaks, let them leak. Only start to worry when they stop.... Then add more fluid. Chasing leaks can get costly, I've finally learned my lesson - I buy cheap plywood so not to screw up the garage floor.
 
Joined
Mar 31, 2014
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Gone
Oil leaks are unsightly and can stain your driveway, but sure as the sun they don't hurt anything on the car... & actually protect the metal. I had leaks coming out of everywhere (synthetic oil seems to eventually leak past anything) and finally fixed them all. The driveway is cleaner but the car doesn't care.

BTW. A 10W-40 "high mileage" type semi-synthetic motor oil can often stop oil leaks.
 

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