Correct sequence for installing hardtop and doors................. (1 Viewer)

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Aug 18, 2013
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Location
Prescott Valley, AZ
My '78 came with a soft top and hardtop and all doors, but I have never had them on the rig until now. I want to have more security so time for the lid!! My plan is to start with front doors then side panels, bows over doors to top of windshield frame, fiberglass top and then ambulance doors last-is this the correct sequence as I have never had it on before? Any input or advice appreciated! Thanks
 
I remove my hardtop often, I'm no expert but here's some tips...

  • Remove all extra stuff from inside (u may need to crawl around)
  • Remove doors
  • Losses windshield so that you can slightly move it back and forth
  • Inspect, repair and replace all weather stripping
  • Lightly grease metal posts on hard top
  • Job requires 3-4 grown men, I've done it with 2 and did not have fun.
  • Lift top 2 on each side 1 in back
  • Slide on from rear
  • Keep high, use 4th person to guide post and align windshield
  • Slowly drop in place
  • May need to drop into post holes, keep front of top angled upwards slightly then wiggle windshield to align
  • Tighten bolts from rear to front, alternating from side to side
  • Install doors
 
Not sure about the ambulance doors because I've never dealt with them but you're going to want the side doors on before the top as you may need to lean the windshield forward to get the pins in. Impossible to do with the top on because there is a lip that goes over the top front edge of the windshield. Mine is a hardtop so whenever the top came off it was simply unbolt and lift off and then reverse to put back on. You want to make sure your gaskets are in their proper place before snugging things down.
 
Thanks guys-yes Byron my top has not been on since I have owned it, so this is all new. Finishing door refub this week
 
Is the top in pieces or all together? I've done it myself when in pieces but better with two handle the fiberglass top. I leave the bolts loose until it all together. Never having the top on before you will find out how square the tub is. Soft tops are for forgiving than a hard top.
 
While it's apart I would chase all fixed nuts and bolts. Once assembled would coat the exposed threads around the fiberglass top with grease or anti-seize. Will make it a lot easier to take it apart later. Not a bad idea to use a hose and soak the top and then feel around the inside of the cap to see if it's wet. If it is wet seal the channel . The channel will rust even in AZ if it gets wet. Worse at elevation where it's cooler. The liner helps hold moisture and keep it from drying out.
 
I'm close to putting mine back on. I'm thinking...

1. Side panels
2. brace over rear doors
3. the pieces over the front doors are in two sections - 1 attaches to the fiberglass top, then the other one clips to it.
4. then set the top on & attach loosely to windshield frame, side panels, etc.
5. front or rear doors - doubt it matters much at this point

I assume there will be a lot of wiggle room to adjust gaps before I tighten everything down.

obviously I'll be putting the new rubber pieces throughout the installation. Are you guys attaching the weather stripping to the parts (gluing)? Like the piece that goes over the windshield - is it just sandwiched in there or glued to the top of windshield or glued to the bottom of the hardtop?
 
It won't hurt to tack your seal over windshield down to help hold it in place. As you slide the top around it will tend to push the seal out of place. 3 strong people is a must. Doors last and install top door pins from the bottom. Once the top is on it will only take a little wiggle or two for lining the bolts up. Be ready for a while different sound with a hardtop on vs off.
 
Ah yes, I like that and thanks for the advice my friend!
 
I remove my top every year in the spring time and re-install as winter approaches. I take the top apart so that two people can do the job and am able to store it in the top of ym garage. The person suggesting you run a tap through all threaded holes is right on- do it to the 6MM holes in the top of the tub where the hardtop sides attach, to the underside of the top, and to the top of the amby door header. Also do it to the holes in the tub and hardtop sides where the amby door hinges attach, and any holes in your windshield frame where the lip of the FG top attaches and where the L brackets attach. You'll be glad you did this. Having good clean (or new) hardware is a must.
I put the hardtop sides on first and don't tighten them down, then add the amby door header. I leave the front door headers attached to my top when I remove it; if yours are loose install them next. Now you can set the fiberglass top in place. Two can do this job, three people make it easier. for the final lift and positioning of the top I sit in the passenger seat and lift the top from inside the truck so I can see how it sits on the windshield frame. Get all the screws started then tighten everything down. I do the amby doors next and the front doors last. I'd say it's best if you're not in a hurry when you do this.
 
I have no doors on rig right now so they may go on first for a bit-then can follow that sequence when it all goes on. It is confusing to me how many seals go between top of tub and sides. SOR shows two seals run along that rail on both sides???? The Toyota fische shows one on each side, anyone have an opinion on this?
 
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There are 2 pieces. See pic below.

upload_2017-2-1_8-8-17.png
 
So cruisercorps shows an inner side panel seal and side panel seal, so in other words two seals along the top of each upper rail on the tub? Is this correct? I am getting all new seals for this install.
 
Ok got it, so next question. I plan on using OEM wherever possible, but know not all are available; so, who do you like for seals?? BTW thanks for the pics that really helps!
 

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