Denso is not the OEM manufacturer for Land Cruiser radiators, TRad Japan is.
Denso might be an okay option, but have heard of people selecting Koyo or TYC as the main aftermarket options for 80s. Most are made in China.
Cooling system observations (1 Viewer)
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Denso is not the OEM manufacturer for Land Cruiser radiators, TRad Japan is.
Denso might be an okay option, but have heard of people selecting Koyo or TYC as the main aftermarket options for 80s. Most are made in China.
Foam around the radiator is also very important, otherwise it recirculates hot air.
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After seeing your new engine build, I decided to redo my cooling system because the previous owner had used cheap parts. Guess now I can justify the money to myself now lol. Thanks.
I don’t think this is anything new info wise, just the opposite actually. Let’s beat the horse one more time though.
Here is what we have seen in my shop in the last three months.
My 95: new engine, all new cooling system, everything OEM. Radiator used but only 2yrs old and is an OEM (TRad) that has only ever had red in it. I run around town at 182-186*. In traffic, idling with A/C on high and 95+ outside temp, it will hit 190*. I seen it hit 191* once so far, wheeling in 85+ outside, A/C on high. Timing set at 8*. Running red at a 50/50.
Customers 93: remanned engine we didn’t install. All new parts but most Oriely’s Chinese specials. Fan clutch was a “Topaz”.Cruiser even had hood vents cut in. Running around at 195-200*. Under load, a/c on, ect, I seen it hit 210* and this isn’t in 95+ outside temp. Running what looks like dexcool, don’t know mixture but it tested to -15*. Timing set at 8*.
97 CE: we just did a new engine in it. Top end rebuilt but short block new. All new OEM cooling system, except the rad. It’s an Orielys special but is fairly new and to keep cost down it was retained. Runs around town at 184-190*. Just under a mild load we have already seen 192* with a/c on ect ect. Again, only thing not new & OEM here is the rad. Running red at 50/50. Timing set at 8*.
What’s the moral of the story here? Don’t cheap out and use Chinese parts on your cooling system if you want it to run cool. We are seeing a solid 5* difference in my shop just using a Chinese rad vs an OEM. Whole China on the system and its running to hot.
Cheers
SmokingRocks
hopelessly addicted to Cruisers
I’ve had two TYC 1918’s and they were both great. Lost one due to an issue I created by putting my motor mounts in wrong
I'm happy with my TYC 1918.
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I put a TYC a/c condenser in my truck. I am happy with it and the price was right. It’s nowhere near OEM quality though.
Cheers
Cheers
Azca
If there is a harder way - I will find it...
Agreed, I was more worried about the temps however...
This. My old radiator was beginning to leak from the top tank. JB welded that sucker and she lasted another year until I could drop some
on OEM parts for maintenance. Not suggesting you run a sketch rad for as long as I did - but the point stands that the OEM rads are plenty tough and can be temporarily repaired with the right tools/materials.
I do think that plastic afforded greater flexibility. I also think that the smaller frontal area of modern grills is responsible for the need for all aluminum radiators.This. My old radiator was beginning to leak from the top tank. JB welded that sucker and she lasted another year until I could drop some
SmokingRocks
hopelessly addicted to Cruisers
Idk about this, my grill is blocked by a fatty Warn winch and low bull bar. So natural airflow is pretty obstructed. Yet my old girl cools almost too well.
I think most people overlook how important the fan clutch, fluid, and shroud are to maintaining temps.
I agree, there are many scenarios where ideal airflow is obstructed or simply not present from the exterior of the vehicle (not moving fast enough, etc). The fan ensures the requisite amount of air is drawn through the rad regardless of speed. I'm not saying an unobstructed radiator doesn't help - but if you lose your fan you're probably toast.
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Going to try this ALL aluminum 4 row radiator next week 4 Row Radiator For Landcruiser HDJ80/HZJ80 1HZ/1HD 4.2L Diesel Manual 1990-1998 | eBay - https://www.ebay.com/itm/203293078860
It's for a '94 with all OEM cooling parts except for the radiator that was replaced with a local plastic tank model when I replaced the head gasket 150K miles ago. It just developed a pin hole earlier this week. We will see if it comes with a trans cooler in the bottom of the tank. The overflow will require a longer hose as they located the filler to the other side of the top tank. Aluminum is pretty easy to work for me with since I have a Tig and a CNC machine shop.
It's for a '94 with all OEM cooling parts except for the radiator that was replaced with a local plastic tank model when I replaced the head gasket 150K miles ago. It just developed a pin hole earlier this week. We will see if it comes with a trans cooler in the bottom of the tank. The overflow will require a longer hose as they located the filler to the other side of the top tank. Aluminum is pretty easy to work for me with since I have a Tig and a CNC machine shop.
SteelHunterFJ80
SILVER Star
Lets us know how it performs!
Years ago owner of a small radiator shop lectured me when a customer had me install a 4 row radiator in his C3500 he towed a huge trailer with. It would overheat on flat highway at 55. I drove it to the radiator shop and he held up 2 radiators- one Autozone. One had MANY more rows of tubes and MANY more fins. Told me "THAT's why you don't use cheap radiators- they don't work " I installed the one he sold me (recored) and the truck would go full throttle up the longest hills with the trailer and not move off 180 in summer. Obviously much more surface area works.
SmokingRocks
hopelessly addicted to Cruisers
There is no doubt about that but my cheap TYC keeps my rig cool even towing flat out up I-70. The amount of air going across the core is the most important element since thats how the heat is transfered, even a 4 row radiator will overheat if the fan clutch isn't up to the task.
hell you could have a 400 throw radiator and if there is no air flow across the fins the engine will still overheat.
heat exchange is what we want, any of these radiators will work as long as there is sufficient airflow. And based on the fact that my heavy ass rig at altitude in the summer going over 11k’ passes at full throttle for 30 mins plus cools from 180 down to 170 would say the cheap rads work fine.
That said I do have a blue fan clutch with 20,000 cst oil in it and it’s very slightly advanced.
hell you could have a 400 throw radiator and if there is no air flow across the fins the engine will still overheat.
heat exchange is what we want, any of these radiators will work as long as there is sufficient airflow. And based on the fact that my heavy ass rig at altitude in the summer going over 11k’ passes at full throttle for 30 mins plus cools from 180 down to 170 would say the cheap rads work fine.
That said I do have a blue fan clutch with 20,000 cst oil in it and it’s very slightly advanced.
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Radiator arrive earlier today via UPS. Took 8 days via ground from California to the Chicago area. It was well packed and it looks like it has a few scrapes across the coils that happened before it was packed. They look superficial and I'll be pressure testing before modifying and installing.
Issues I have noticed so far:
NO bypass hose connection.
NO transmission fluid cooler.
Upper fan shroud mounting holes are in the WRONG location.
Filler neck located on drivers side vs passenger side (US model Cruiser). Overflow will require a longer hose.
Not the prettiest stack of dimes TIG welds that you might find in aerospace, bike frames, etc etc. They are better where the cores meet the tanks vs the mounting areas.
No foam was included.
I'll update with pics and more info as I get into it more.
Reads like you received a radiator from China that was thrown together for a different vehicle. I made this same mistake a couple years ago and ended up sending it back.
It might be for the diesel powered manual transmission model versions of similar years. I'll check around for their mounting locations and measurments. It looks close enough to use. The inlet and outlet connections are in the proper locations and are the correct size. I only have to modify the radiator and not anything else that I see so far. I already have an external trans fluid cooler installed.
