Cooling system observations (3 Viewers)

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SNLC

OCD
Supporting Vendor
Joined
Sep 9, 2004
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186
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Location
Boise - Idaho
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www.snlandcruisers.com
:deadhorse:

I don’t think this is anything new info wise, just the opposite actually. Let’s beat the horse one more time though.

Here is what we have seen in my shop in the last three months.

My 95: new engine, all new cooling system, everything OEM. Radiator used but only 2yrs old and is an OEM (TRad) that has only ever had red in it. I run around town at 182-186*. In traffic, idling with A/C on high and 95+ outside temp, it will hit 190*. I seen it hit 191* once so far, wheeling in 85+ outside, A/C on high. Timing set at 8*. Running red at a 50/50.

Customers 93: remanned engine we didn’t install. All new parts but most Oriely’s Chinese specials. Fan clutch was a “Topaz”. 🙄 Cruiser even had hood vents cut in. Running around at 195-200*. Under load, a/c on, ect, I seen it hit 210* and this isn’t in 95+ outside temp. Running what looks like dexcool, don’t know mixture but it tested to -15*. Timing set at 8*.

97 CE: we just did a new engine in it. Top end rebuilt but short block new. All new OEM cooling system, except the rad. It’s an Orielys special but is fairly new and to keep cost down it was retained. Runs around town at 184-190*. Just under a mild load we have already seen 192* with a/c on ect ect. Again, only thing not new & OEM here is the rad. Running red at 50/50. Timing set at 8*.

What’s the moral of the story here? Don’t cheap out and use Chinese parts on your cooling system if you want it to run cool. We are seeing a solid 5* difference in my shop just using a Chinese rad vs an OEM. Whole China on the system and its running to hot.

Cheers
 
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Yup, people struggle with cooling when they use non OEM items. Now that said, I do think the TYC 1918 radiators work just fine.

7,000 lbs at altitude on stock gears and 35's with a modified blue fan clutch and I rarely see above 190. Hell going up I-70 10+ miles full throttle (like its seriously floored for that distance) during a 90 degree day and the rig actually cools itself from 185 to 175 degrees once the fan clutch engages.

OEM is the way to go, make sure the mechanical fan is well serviced and the fan shroud is intact.
 
I can ditto this story..my cooling system has always been kept well maintained. Hoses are about 2 years old. Same with thermosat fan clutch and radiator cap. Everything i replaced was OEM. My truck would normally run at 184f when moving at normal speed. It would climb into the 190's easily with the AC on. Do freeway speeds and i would see 200-210. Idling was the same, would creep up above 200 fairly easily. The radiator wasn't OEM (it was a CSF) so i planned on swapping it out earlier in the summer. The new radiator sat on my shelf for a while and i eventually got round to swapping it out in October. At the same time i plugged in a new water pump and changed the oil in the fan clutch - 15k -same as before.
I know it isn't mid summer any more but so far i haven't seen the temp guage rise above 180. AC on gives me 180 on the freeway. Idling is stays in the upper 170's but that might be due to the new oil.
Bottom line is the OEM has made a huge difference. Temp difference here between summer and winter isn't huge so i don't expect to see much of a change. OEM rads are definitely worth the extra dollars.
I should mention that i am using a temp sender that measures the top hose water temp vs measuring the ECT at the ECU.
 
100% on a quality rad.

You can see though with a China thermostat, fan clutch, water pump and a China rad it’s just not cutting it, period.

I get that not everyone has $500 for a radiator but the China thermostat, fan clutch and w/p just don’t make sense to me when OEM is cheap(ish).

Cheers
 
My CFS rad from Summit is all brass and made in Indonesia. I am very happy with it and have experienced no temp issues at all.

Never had any issues with mine either (and I live in HOT Texas) but others HAVE had problems with them. I don't think it has ever been settled....but at some point it would seem that certain production periods of the CSF must have produced inferior radiators OR something changed about them.

In previous discussions....we were seeing maybe 50/50 or so of folks with and without problems. Of course....climate and driving conditions varied widely.

In the end....we want our cooling 'systems' to work as efficiently as possible, that is always good practice, but I think too much is made of chasing a certain temperature number sometimes. Just because your rig goes over that magic "190°" temp doesn't mean anything is amiss. As long as your cooling system isn't running up into the 220's no harm is being done. Sure...some folks have cooler running rigs. It's not a contest.
 
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Never had any issues with mine either (and I live in HOT Texas) but others HAVE had problems with them. I don't think it has ever been settled....but at some point it would seem that certain production periods of the CSF must have produced inferior radiators OR something changed about them.

In previous discussions....we were seeing maybe 50/50 or so of folks with and without problems. Of course....climate and driving conditions varied widely.

In the end....we want our cooling 'systems' to work as efficiently as possible, that is always good practice, but I think too much is made of chasing a certain temperature number sometimes. Just because you rig goes over that magic "190°" temp doesn't mean anything is amiss. As long as your cooling system isn't running up into the 220's no harm is being done. Sure...some folks have cooler running rigs. It's not a contest.
Good points. I bought mine in the spring for what it's worth.
 
Good points. I bought mine in the spring for what it's worth.

Put mine in March of 2013.

Not promoting it or suggesting it for others (I believe there are radiators that cool better) but mine has worked well for me and suits my needs.
 
My CFS rad from Summit is all brass and made in Indonesia. I am very happy with it and have experienced no temp issues at all.
My CSF wasn't showing any outward signs of trouble either. My main reason for swapping it out was that i didn't know when the previous owner had it installed. I was just surprised at how much lower my cooling system temps are with the new OEM.
 
My CSF wasn't showing any outward signs of trouble either. My main reason for swapping it out was that i didn't know when the previous owner had it installed. I was just surprised at how much lower my cooling system temps are with the new OEM.
My decision was made the instant I saw an all brass rad not from China. I hate aluminium and plastic crimp on tanks. Brass can be soldered just about anywhere. I'm old school like that. It's about the only non OEM part other than the stainless brake lines
 
I hear ya but some people here report OEM radiators lasting 15+ years so i am good with that. I also believe that aluminium radiators are better at cooling than the brass versions but not sure by what factor.
 
I hear ya but some people here report OEM radiators lasting 15+ years so i am good with that.
The radiator in my 94 is the original factory plastic tank radiator, coming up this march it'll be 26 years old. It has no issues, but after 25 plus years of problem free service it's earned it's retirement. Seeing as the original radiator has lasted 25 years with proper maintenance. I'm going to replace it with a brand new factory Toyota radiator this coming spring.
 
The radiator in my 94 is the original factory plastic tank radiator, coming up this march it'll be 26 years old. It has no issues, but after 25 plus years of problem free service it's earned it's retirement. Seeing as the original radiator has lasted 25 years with proper maintenance. I'm going to replace it with a brand new factory Toyota radiator this coming spring.
I still have the original radiator in my 1991 HDJ81. Also no issues, but I'm planning to replace before this summer.
 
OEM schmOEM..... :) :) :) :flipoff2:🤘

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My decision was made the instant I saw an all brass rad not from China. I hate aluminium and plastic crimp on tanks. Brass can be soldered just about anywhere. I'm old school like that. It's about the only non OEM part other than the stainless brake lines
I had problems with my csf. When the going got tough it just couldn’t keep up. Temps would creep up and continue to creep upward depending on load. A well publicized fact is that for a copper/brass radiator to dissipate heat as well as aluminum, the core needs to be larger. Copper absorbs heat more quickly but AL gives it up quicker. An aluminum core is all aluminum but a copper core is brazed together and the brazing doesn’t transfer heat worth a damn.

I feel the same as you about plastic tanks which is why I bought the csf 4.5 years ago but the fact is a copper core with smaller tubes needs to be a larger that an all aluminum core in order to handle the same heat load. Two rows of larger tube have great surface area.

As for field repairs, if a guy carried an extra gasket and the proper tool, the tanks can be removed, resealed, and put back into service anywhere and with no need for brazing skills. The size of cracks and holes that the proper type of epoxy can repair on a plastic tank is surprising.
 
Agreed, my 91 lasted almost 30 years. The price of a japanese OEM rad compared to the all brass unit settled it quickly for me. I have to say also that the build quality of the CSF is excellent. Though no rad will last forever in the salt belt.
 
I replaced my CSF with A TYC based upon advice from Tools R Us as he stated they tend to run a little cooler than OEM and noticeably better than the CSF.
 
I replaced my CSF with A TYC based upon advice from Tools R Us as he stated they tend to run a little cooler than OEM and noticeably better than the CSF.

Kevin was in a position to monitor Real World results in a pretty harsh environment and I have no doubts he was/is correct.

For 'optimum' cooling there are better selections than the CSF. For pure ruggedness and in conditions not requiring the best cooling, then the CSF might still be a viable choice for certain folks.

But it's hard to argue that todays plastic/aluminum radiators don't offer good cooling, much less weight and generally less cost.

Some of the radiators available today are so inexpensive, that even if they lasted only 5-6 yrs, they would still be a bargain.

I paid about $360.00 (shipped) for my CSF seven years ago. I'm happy with it and it has served me well so far, but it would not be ideal for others.
 
When you all are referring to Chinese radiators are you referring to Denso rads? Or off brand parts store rads? I was under the impression Denso rads were the OEM replacement for most Toyota/Lexus cars/trucks.
 
I think the main problem is the fan clutch. Parts store fan clutches are garbage. I tried several when I first got my cruiser, right after the real time temp gauge told me things weren't right. (Then finally changed the fluid in my original) Add to it people putting random hood vents or gapping the hood messing up the high/low pressure zones that make a radiator effective.
 

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