Cooling issues with CSF 2517 - what temp does your rig's A/C shut off?

DSRTRDR

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and I agree with Kevin (Tools R Us): at $120 for the TYC radiator, I'd just consider it a consumable - and if I need a new one 2 years down the road, so what :meh:
 
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Suggestion: Depreciate what you read on Amazon, pay more attention to technically attentive southwest low desert performance reports here on the Mud.
And use your purchasing dollars to help maintain a healthy diverse economy rather than growing a monopoly.
There are plenty of other great places to buy things, the TYC 1918 radiator, in particular.
So this brings me back to this question: are the positive experiences with TYC posted on Mud mostly from people who ordered TYC 1918 radiators, but received Koyorad-labeled 1918 radiators instead? Because that seems to be the case with most of the earlier, positive reviews of the TYC 1918 on Amazon from 2013-2016, and then the negative reviews start coming in when they received the “real” TYC-labeled radiators. So, perhaps the great experiences are actually with TYC orders that came in as Koyorads? Can some Mud members who ordered a TYC comment on whether they received a TYC or Koyorad-labeled radiator and their experience with it?
 
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Bambusiero

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I’m just as concerned with the longevity of the radiator as the cooling capacity. Where are the reports of TYCs lasting the same 10+ years as the OEM? Perhaps the TYC part hasn’t been around that long. Well then at least 5yrs? Also interested to hear about your recommended “other places” to buy the TYC.
Who manufactures the 1917? And do you know how the 1917 differs from the TYC/Koyorad 1918?

So many serious concerns but...

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BillyGoatMTB

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Great read! Thanks for the suggestion @Bambusiero . However, I didnt see anything in the 183 posts that addressed my question in the other thread A Coolant System Pressure Test - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/a-coolant-system-pressure-test.938283/#post-13771579

Since i replaced my factory radiator cap with a new wits factory cap i saw some difference in overflow. The only thing i haven't replaced in my 98% new factory cooling system including every hose was the radiator from the PO. Based on my reading and your posts i see the radiator may be a contributing factory in the pressure overflow issue i had.

Side note, and this is important part of my cooling system refresh. Shortly after getting the rig out the gate i went with an AISIN BLUE FAN CLUTCH. I was living the dream never going over 194, climbs, altitude, drive thru then one day on the way to the beach at an IN and Out drive thru in Petaluma i noticed the AC cut out, plugged in my OBD2 blue tooth and fired her up 222 degrees. Long story short, ordered some 30cst fluid and an Oring from Wits, put that baby in water with the fluke meter and dialed her in. RESULT, WOW! faulty new AISIN Blue Fan Clutch fixed!

On to another subject, i was going to go with a Toyota factory radiator $380, why gamble i say, factory or better period. However, @Marco Lau and @NLXTACY are you still loving your Ron Davis? I need more deets, looks like its been a few years since you put in your Ron Davis, I think i would like to jump in the pool in preparation for that new factory short lock i am ordering soon....

Rock On Mud :flipoff2:Love this Forum!!!
 

Bambusiero

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In post #45 in the "Cooling issues with CSF 2517" thread I do mention the specific pressure behaviors that I saw on CSF2517 vs TYC1918.
Direct coolant system pressure comparison is made, under low heat load, cold start conditions, first 1/2 mile from home.

Note that the radiator cap acts as a coolant system pressure limiting relief valve.
As long as pressure remains below the spring pressure (stock = 0.9bar=0.9*14.5psi=13.05psi, then no coolant goes overboard into the overflow tank.
And that is just what my pressure gauge showed, too, pretty close - within reasonable gauge accuracy.
During my testing I tried out a higher pressure cap (1.1bar=16psi) - sure enough - system pressure maxed out at 16psi or so, and when it did? I pulled over and saw higher level in the overflow tank. (that did NOT solve the overheating issues)

I saw specific pressure behavior differences between the 2 radiators that I can only speculate about the reasons for - but - CSF went overpressure (like always, constantly) vs TYC which did not.
The pressure and overheating must be related, for sure, but not one-for-one identical. Hot coolant has more volume than cold, right? has to.

Also, however, depending on ambient conditions AND engine load, it's normal for some coolant overflow into the tank, but it gets vacuumed back in when the engine cools down.
> it breathes out/in, but nothing is lost if all is working properly.
 

Bambusiero

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I've never read anything but good about the Ron Davis radiator - except it's expensive and takes a while to get.
 
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Great read! Thanks for the suggestion @Bambusiero . However, I didnt see anything in the 183 posts that addressed my question in the other thread A Coolant System Pressure Test - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/a-coolant-system-pressure-test.938283/#post-13771579

Since i replaced my factory radiator cap with a new wits factory cap i saw some difference in overflow. The only thing i haven't replaced in my 98% new factory cooling system including every hose was the radiator from the PO. Based on my reading and your posts i see the radiator may be a contributing factory in the pressure overflow issue i had.

Side note, and this is important part of my cooling system refresh. Shortly after getting the rig out the gate i went with an AISIN BLUE FAN CLUTCH. I was living the dream never going over 194, climbs, altitude, drive thru then one day on the way to the beach at an IN and Out drive thru in Petaluma i noticed the AC cut out, plugged in my OBD2 blue tooth and fired her up 222 degrees. Long story short, ordered some 30cst fluid and an Oring from Wits, put that baby in water with the fluke meter and dialed her in. RESULT, WOW! faulty new AISIN Blue Fan Clutch fixed!

On to another subject, i was going to go with a Toyota factory radiator $380, why gamble i say, factory or better period. However, @Marco Lau and @NLXTACY are you still loving your Ron Davis? I need more deets, looks like its been a few years since you put in your Ron Davis, I think i would like to jump in the pool in preparation for that new factory short lock i am ordering soon....

Rock On Mud :flipoff2:Love this Forum!!!
Just a heads up if Ron Davis is the path you choose... First, I’m sure you’ll be thrilled as all reports have been glowing (as they should be for a $1200 radiator). But these radiators are made to order and take about six weeks per my conversation with Ron Davis about two weeks ago. Plan accordingly.
 

BillyGoatMTB

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Thanks for the replies and expansion on topic. Currently everything with my system is working fantastic. However, my nerve is struck knowing i have an aftermarket radiator from the PO. I was dead set on a Mr. T then started the Ron Davis Rabbit hole.

I am considering ordering a new shortblock from MR T and park it in my shop until the time comes, i may take the same approach with the Ron Davis but knowing me, ill probable decide between MR T and Ron Davis then install keeping the existing radiator as a reliable spare, or hero status on a trail this summer if someone needs one :hillbilly:.

@midfat based on my reading the Ron Davis looks like a plug and play, are you seeing the same? I haven't called them yet but was planning to. I see Wit's makes those 6AN adapters, looks there are a few different ways to go with the Trans cooler lines. Thoughts?

Rock on Mud :flipoff2:
 
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Thanks for the replies and expansion on topic. Currently everything with my system is working fantastic. However, my nerve is struck knowing i have an aftermarket radiator from the PO. I was dead set on a Mr. T then started the Ron Davis Rabbit hole.

I am considering ordering a new shortblock from MR T and park it in my shop until the time comes, i may take the same approach with the Ron Davis but knowing me, ill probable decide between MR T and Ron Davis then install keeping the existing radiator as a reliable spare, or hero status on a trail this summer if someone needs one :hillbilly:.

@midfat based on my reading the Ron Davis looks like a plug and play, are you seeing the same? I haven't called them yet but was planning to. I see Wit's makes those 6AN adapters, looks there are a few different ways to go with the Trans cooler lines. Thoughts?

Rock on Mud :flipoff2:
I couldn’t wait the six weeks so I went with another OEM rad. I’ve yet to experience an overheating event running OEM components that are in good working order. Original OEM (aluminum) radiator popped around 220k miles. Plastic top separated from the core. I replaced that with a brass OEM radiator a few years back. Fast forward to a few weeks ago, at 260k miles, I somehow managed to catch a stick in the fan and gashed the core right along the lower tank seam. Explored the Ron Davis option as a replacement, but ultimately went with another OEM aluminum radiator. I was in the desert last weekend. 180* on the freeway. 185* in stop/go traffic. 190* on the trail in 4lo crawling. Ambient was 95-100*F.

FWIW, the aluminum seems to cool a bit faster than the brass, all things equal. Never had a problem with either, but the newer aluminum core seems a bit more responsive.

That’s just my experience, but if Ron Ravis had a unit on the shelf, I would have pulled the trigger. Mainly because anything worth shooting is worth shooting twice. Why not?
 
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Someone previously asked if anyone had longer term experience with their TYC, so here's some feedback. I purchased and installed mine back in August of 2018, after my OEM 1994 radiator could no longer keep (corrosion blocking water flow). The TYC has performed well, haven't logged any data as the temps have always stayed in check at 187-189* around town and no more than ~210* on steady hill climbs. However, the temp rose to 206* the other day on a short climb in a residential neighborhood, which was abnormal. Got under it and noticed coolant on the lower radiator support. Got it home and upon inspection, the radiator is leaking where the end tank seals to the core. This lasted ~4 years, but with only 10k miles put on the truck.

So in summary, performance has been good. Longevity is questionable. Sure, it's a cheap to replace, but the inconvenience factor is real annoying.

TYC has a lifetime warranty that I plan to submit a claim for.
 

inkpot

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Someone previously asked if anyone had longer term experience with their TYC, so here's some feedback. I purchased and installed mine back in August of 2018, after my OEM 1994 radiator could no longer keep (corrosion blocking water flow). The TYC has performed well, haven't logged any data as the temps have always stayed in check at 187-189* around town and no more than ~210* on steady hill climbs. However, the temp rose to 206* the other day on a short climb in a residential neighborhood, which was abnormal. Got under it and noticed coolant on the lower radiator support. Got it home and upon inspection, the radiator is leaking where the end tank seals to the core. This lasted ~4 years, but with only 10k miles put on the truck.

So in summary, performance has been good. Longevity is questionable. Sure, it's a cheap to replace, but the inconvenience factor is real annoying.

TYC has a lifetime warranty that I plan to submit a claim for.
We have installed a couple dozen so far over the last 7/8 years. Only know of 1 failure so far, now 2 with yours. Reliability is still acceptable to me.expecting 114+ degrees this weekend here in Phoenix. My temps should stay in the mid 190s.
 

80t0ylc

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Someone previously asked if anyone had longer term experience with their TYC, so here's some feedback. I purchased and installed mine back in August of 2018, after my OEM 1994 radiator could no longer keep (corrosion blocking water flow). The TYC has performed well, haven't logged any data as the temps have always stayed in check at 187-189* around town and no more than ~210* on steady hill climbs. However, the temp rose to 206* the other day on a short climb in a residential neighborhood, which was abnormal. Got under it and noticed coolant on the lower radiator support. Got it home and upon inspection, the radiator is leaking where the end tank seals to the core. This lasted ~4 years, but with only 10k miles put on the truck.

So in summary, performance has been good. Longevity is questionable. Sure, it's a cheap to replace, but the inconvenience factor is real annoying.

TYC has a lifetime warranty that I plan to submit a claim for.
Good to know and thanks for feedback! Put a TYC in my '94 several yrs ago after years of borderline performance from OEM and CSF radiators - meaning that I couldn't run A/C when it was REALLY needed. Larger tires and more weight from armor and mods pushed it over the limit for copper/brass radiator's performance. Aluminum did the trick for me. TYC put it back to my cooling system to have "as new" performance. Also have done the Rav mod to my OEM temp gauge to monitor engine temps more accurately.
 

inkpot

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Good to know and thanks for feedback! Put a TYC in my '94 several yrs ago after years of borderline performance from OEM and CSF radiators - meaning that I couldn't run A/C when it was REALLY needed. Larger tires and more weight from armor and mods pushed it over the limit for copper/brass radiator's performance. Aluminum did the trick for me. TYC put it back to my cooling system to have "as new" performance. Also have done the Rav mod to my OEM temp gauge to monitor engine temps more accurately.
We do a few other cheats. I M running 50000 CST silicon fluid and the 10% overdrive fan pulley from Photoman? I have also built my own spacer on the fan so I can run the original fan in spite of having the TRD Supercharger crammed in there. It DOES reduce airflow in the engine bay, so I do everything I can to keep it running cool in the summer.
 
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We do a few other cheats. I M running 50000 CST silicon fluid and the 10% overdrive fan pulley from Photoman? I have also built my own spacer on the fan so I can run the original fan in spite of having the TRD Supercharger crammed in there. It DOES reduce airflow in the engine bay, so I do everything I can to keep it running cool in the summer.
The feedback from this group, particularly those of you in AZ are what led me to go with the TYC. Hopefully mine is just a fluke and the rest of yours hold up well. I can't seem to get a TYC in time for this repair so it's looking like I'm going with a Toyota. Worst case I will swap the warranty replacement TYC in if I am dissatisfied with OEM.
 

inkpot

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The feedback from this group, particularly those of you in AZ are what led me to go with the TYC. Hopefully mine is just a fluke and the rest of yours hold up well. I can't seem to get a TYC in time for this repair so it's looking like I'm going with a Toyota. Worst case I will swap the warranty replacement TYC in if I am dissatisfied with OEM.
Sounds good. I would go ahead and file the warranty claim. Keep it as a spare or just selling for $$$.
 

80t0ylc

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The feedback from this group, particularly those of you in AZ are what led me to go with the TYC. Hopefully mine is just a fluke and the rest of yours hold up well. I can't seem to get a TYC in time for this repair so it's looking like I'm going with a Toyota. Worst case I will swap the warranty replacement TYC in if I am dissatisfied with OEM.
Yeah, I also went with AZ crew‘s recommendation for the TYC. After seeing the difference in performance, I concluded that with the extra weight from mods plus going from 31” to 35” tires, brass/copper radiators couldn’t do the job at extreme temps (above 95*F) on hills and at highway speeds with A/C on. If you go with an OEM, choose ’95 - ’97 replacement - even for your ‘94. (It will fit) Toyota changed from brass/copper to aluminum ’95 on. The OEM aluminum were 2 rows compared to the ’91-‘94 OEM brass/copper 3 rows, but were still more efficient. The TYC out performs the OEM aluminum radiators and is cheaper! I’ve read that it’s the tube design of the TYC that is the difference.
 
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For what it's worth, my 1996 HZJ80 still has the 26 year old OEM aluminium radiator, still going strong without issues, and with the 1HZ at least I haven't had issues with temps going up hills. I'm going to pick up a new OEM soon for a rainy day. I'd personally go OEM.
 

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