My first radiator lasted 20 years, replaced with trad from Toyota, not picking on you or saying you but I don’t understand why people look for the cheaper route when you can get new from yota for 330 bucks and last another 10 years if not way more .
Cooling issues after replacing everything (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter ducky106
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I understand the logic behind the theory that adding a second battery leads to increased engine temps. In my case, having that space occupied has made zero difference in temp data. For that matter, disabling the EGR system also changed nothing.
Then go put in a weak fan clutch and go for a drive.
I had a failing clutch in my 91 that couldn't keep her cool in upper 70s ambient at highway speeds. Replaced with new OEM and never looked back.
While driving I can hear my fan clutch cycling on and off. If it wasn't needed, it wouldn't engage.
When I was shopping for an 80 series (back in 2000) I found the one I have now at a Dealership in Houston. As luck would have it...it had just been brought in (trade-in) and had not yet been inspected, cleaned or worked on in anyway. But I wanted to look at it and drive it anyway.
The salesperson got the keys and we took it out for a drive. It was August and the ambient temp was in the upper 90's. I noticed right away when we got in the vehicle the A/C was not very cold at all. I drove it around the immediate area for about 15 minutes and it was plain...the A/C was NOT going to do any better.
About the same time...I happened to notice the coolant temp gauge was higher than in the center. The Salesman suggested we take it out on the freeway and get it 'up to speed' since the vehicle needed to be 'evaluated' anyway.
So....off we went. It drove well in all respects but the A/C never did do much and the engine temp leveled out just below the red mark! I pointed that out and we headed back to the dealership. Once there....I popped the hood...wanting to look at the engine bay area and with engine still running could see that fan blade was just barely turning at all. In fact I put my fingers down there and actually stopped it! The salesperson was shocked.
I asked him to have that fixed, check out the A/C, have it cleaned and detailed and I'd look at the next day. We drove it again the next day...with ONLY the fan clutch being replaced and the vehicle cleaned and it was perfect. I made him an offer on the spot...and the Cruiser was mine.
I realize that kind of 'proof' of the need for fan 'participation' even at highway speeds is somewhat anecdotal...since we didn't drive it on the highway for more than about 10 minutes, but years later as the fan clutch began to wear...my engine temps were rising above normal at highway speeds and again....a fan clutch change remedied the situation. Then even later on....a fluid change in the fan clutch yielded even better cooling.
Not very scientific...I understand, but evidence 'empirical' enough for me. The 80 series tends to be fan dependent at all reasonable speeds (unless mine is an anomaly for reason).
I have a 91 with full armor, 37s, etc. It needed all the cooling it can get. I have a Ron Davis alum. radiator plus a modified green hub with 20k oil and set to open @ 100-105 f. Cruising at highway speed with AC is never a problem with this setup, my aftermarket temp gauge reads between 190-192 on highway. <200 F on hill climbs with AC. My problem is during slow 4L type wheeling where ram air is inadequate. I have since solved the heat soak problem by added 2 pusher Spal fan at the front and wired to a factory switch inside the dash. The fans pull so much air, it will lower the water temp by 10 degree within 2 mins with AC on in stop and go traffic. Now i can run my AC on fire road climbs and with the fans on, it will never get above 200 F. I also have aftermarket hood louvers to vent hot air trapped inside the engine bay as well.
I have a 91 with full armor, 37s, etc. It needed all the cooling it can get. I have a Ron Davis alum. radiator plus a modified green hub with 20k oil and set to open @ 100-105 f. Cruising at highway speed with AC is never a problem with this setup, my aftermarket temp gauge reads between 190-192 on highway. <200 F on hill climbs with AC. My problem is during slow 4L type wheeling where ram air is inadequate. I have since solved the heat soak problem by added 2 pusher Spal fan at the front and wired to a factory switch inside the dash. The fans pull so much air, it will lower the water temp by 10 degree within 2 mins with AC on in stop and go traffic. Now i can run my AC on fire road climbs and with the fans on, it will never get above 200 F. I also have aftermarket hood louvers to vent hot air trapped inside the engine bay as well.
Very nice set up. Expensive....but definitely working.
Thank you. Running hot and overheating will definitely put a damper on a well planned Overlanding/wheeling trip especially in Socal climate. I have gone great lengths to make sure the inadequate factory cooling with our modified rig has been addressed.
I'm here in Colorado and when my newly rebuilt engine was still having heating issues, Robbie did the fan clutch mod and we put the 30K oil. Has worked great ever since. I had a new radiator, hose, AC condensor, engine etc. The fan clutch mod saved me.
Which again supports the idea that 80 series tend to be fan dependent and that improvements (over factory) can be had.
Good point. I’ve never stopped my 80 and heard the fan pulling air like it does if it’s sitting stationary with the hand throttle engaged at higher than idle speeds for a while.
@ducky106, three years ago I did a complete overhaul on my 1993 cooling system and in doing so I installed a CSF2517 and sometime soon thereafter a Koso digital water temp gauge.
It wasn’t long until I experienced my first AC shut down while climbing a long hill in low range. Temps of 215 while ascending Donner Summit on I80 in low to mid 80’s ambient temps was normal and exactly what you posted earlier. Cruising on flat highway with AC on in 100* temps she would run at 215-219 for miles and miles until I slowed down for some reason. It seemed it took nothing to get to 200* and any load at all during summer would send the water temp over 200*
Bite the bullet and go back to an Aluminum radiator. I went with a Toyota unit and am running an average of 10* to 25* cooler. The difference becomes more and more pronounced as ambient temp and engine load increases.
@ducky106, three years ago I did a complete overhaul on my 1993 cooling system and in doing so I installed a CSF2517 and sometime soon thereafter a Koso digital water temp gauge.
It wasn’t long until I experienced my first AC shut down while climbing a long hill in low range. Temps of 215 while ascending Donner Summit on I80 in low to mid 80’s ambient temps was normal and exactly what you posted earlier. Cruising on flat highway with AC on in 100* temps she would run at 215-219 for miles and miles until I slowed down for some reason. It seemed it took nothing to get to 200* and any load at all during summer would send the water temp over 200*
Bite the bullet and go back to an Aluminum radiator. I went with a Toyota unit and am running an average of 10* to 25* cooler. The difference becomes more and more pronounced as ambient temp and engine load increases.
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- #51
So I got the fan clutch mod done on Saturday and it has made a significant improvement. Followed Landtanks instructions, and put in about 50ml of 30k.
Temps hove dropped to 200 around town with AC on, and up a hill that normally sees AC cutoff it only hit 215. Great mod, and I'm kicking myself for waiting so long to do it.
Otherwise temps still aren't where I want them so I'm biting the bullet and ordering an OEM one. Thanks for the help.
Temps hove dropped to 200 around town with AC on, and up a hill that normally sees AC cutoff it only hit 215. Great mod, and I'm kicking myself for waiting so long to do it.
Otherwise temps still aren't where I want them so I'm biting the bullet and ordering an OEM one. Thanks for the help.
215 isn't that hot. But if you want better cooling at speed I would look at your radiator and it's condition. I would also check your timing. How old is your oxygen sensor?
TYC radiator swapped in place of the 2517 will get you the rest of the way there. I'd wager you'll get another 8-10° better cooling.
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Before you throw any more
Why the TYC? I see Denso for 30 dollars more?
TYC has pretty much been giving the best performance. Some Denso failures also in recent years.
Lots of info on both....use search function.
Looks like TYC has a dismal Amazon reviews. Bunch of leeks right out of the box one guy did say you have better Cooling. Denso has three five stars it's not enough reviews.
Don't know about Amazon...reviews, just going by the experience of those here.
Pick whatever you like.
Even the ones on here complained leaking out of the box but they did mention it did out perform the koyo
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Buy one with perfect Amazon reviews?
And denso is not OEM. If you buy a Toyota (TRAD) radiator, order from McGeorge Toyota online parts. I got mine last year for $345+shipping.
