Cooling issues after replacing everything (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Aug 23, 2019
Threads
6
Messages
22
Location
Colorado
So I've had my FZJ80 for almost 2 years now. Bought it and replaced the radiator, hoses, fan clutch, and thermostat within two months. Since then temps have been pretty ok until this summer.

Going up the Colorado passes it hits 215 pretty easily and I have seen it hit 226 a couple times, once around town when the ambient was 98.

I'm lost on where to go from here. I've read threads on here and replacing the radiator fixes it for most people and sounds like there is agreement on anything above 210 is abnormal for these trucks. I need some advice on what else to investigate to fix this.
 
are these temp with AC on or without? Also, when you mentioned replaced fan clutch, did you replace with OEM or aftermarket? Perhaps you might consider modding the fan clutch with thicker fluid and do the fan clutch mod on timming per Landtank's instruction.
 
The times I've seen 226 was with AC on, Otherwise I still see 215 with AC off up mountains.

It was aftermarket fan clutch, AISIN FCT004. That mod sounds like a good place to start, thanks was just wondering if its common to need to do that to get the right temps.

Also the truck is lifted, on 33s, and ARB front bumper if that matters.
 
Also, did you thoroughly flush the entire cooling system, including the rear heater circuit and pulling the block drain? With Toyota red and OTC green not playing nice together, it’s possible a previous owner mixed the two and you have some sludge in the block hindering flow. In my opinion, a very thorough block flush is key to any cooling fix.
 
I chased my tail on this issue for a bit then realized that the outside of my radiator was pretty well covered with fine, silty mud that -- as it turns out -- is quite a good insulator.
 
Often overlooked is the fan shroud foam seal, as well as properly burping of the coolant after the system has been opened up. Jack car with front filler neck as the highest point, turn on full heat when the engine is up to temp and rev. the engine a few times to get all the trapped air out, top off coolant in neck and reservoir and watch the level for the next few days/week
 
Alright, awesome replies so far thanks y'all.

I did a good flush when I swapped the radiator. Couldn't hurt to do it again I guess.

So far on the todo list is:
- fan shroud foam seal (have the shroud installed but no seal)
- fan clutch mod
- AC condenser replace? A lot of the fins are folded or broken. Maybe that is causing a lack of flow to the radiator?
 
Alright, awesome replies so far thanks y'all.

I did a good flush when I swapped the radiator. Couldn't hurt to do it again I guess.

So far on the todo list is:
- fan shroud foam seal (have the shroud installed but no seal)
- fan clutch mod
- AC condenser replace? A lot of the fins are folded or broken. Maybe that is causing a lack of flow to the radiator?

^^^^^

YES to all of those. Then I'd be much surprised if you didn't see marked improvements.

Not sure I agree with 30K fluid for the fan clutch mod (20K works fine in my 80 and 100 series) but I am not at altitude or pulling steep hills. Ambient temps are 95°-105°F (summertime) for me however. So not too different than yours.
 
Stock gears ? Any other armor than the ARB?

The engine is working hard and it's been hot here. Those temps don't sound too bad.

Look into the tyc radiator, alot of people like it.
 
I once replaced everything including the rad on my 60 series - all genuine- only to have it overheat. Turned out it was the brand new thermostat I bought from the dealer. I took it out and hit it with a torch and it barely moved.

Of course because it was new I didn't think it was the culprit and took me a very long time to diagnose. Any time I change a thermostat now I boil it in a pot on the stove to see if it opens
 
OEM rad cap is a must too.
 
Water pump?
Running to lean? Check your fuel trims.
What kind of radiator did you use?
 
Turned out it was the brand new thermostat I bought from the dealer.

Had that happen on my Wife's LX...... OEM T-stat (not a year old) failed in the closed position.
 
Stock gears ? Any other armor than the ARB?

The engine is working hard and it's been hot here. Those temps don't sound too bad.

Look into the tyc radiator, alot of people like it.

Stock gears, has sliders and trans skid plate, big roof rack. These temps are when I have it loaded up with gear so no doubt the engine was working hard. I'm glad to hear that these temps aren't too terrible with all the extra bits the car has.

Are these offroad mountain passes where your in 4 low or are these interstate roads where your going 50mph or more?

These are on interstates while trying to keep up with traffic. I usually have to drop to 40-45mph to keep the water temp under control.

Water pump?
Running to lean? Check your fuel trims.
What kind of radiator did you use?

Water pump was replaced when I replaced the radiator. Running lean is a very good point, I'm adding that to the todo list to check on. I used the CSF 2517 radiator, all metal, 3 row.

I once replaced everything including the rad on my 60 series - all genuine- only to have it overheat. Turned out it was the brand new thermostat I bought from the dealer. I took it out and hit it with a torch and it barely moved.

Of course because it was new I didn't think it was the culprit and took me a very long time to diagnose. Any time I change a thermostat now I boil it in a pot on the stove to see if it opens

I did check the thermostat when I put it in a year ago, and water temps behave like it opens and closes. But you are right, it is worth checking for peace of mind.
 
I used the CSF 2517 radiator, all metal, 3 row.

^^^^

There's your trouble.

I've had no issues with mine....but quite a few folks that have replaced their old radiator with a CSF2517 (made in the last few years) have had trouble with higher than normal temps.

Mine is an older install (about 5 years ago).
 
Oh no, thats exactly what I didn't want to hear haha. Do most people continue running it or swap it out for something else? Right now I'm leaning towards doing all the other improvements and seeing if that will lower the temp enough.
 
Oh no, thats exactly what I didn't want to hear haha. Do most people continue running it or swap it out for something else? Right now I'm leaning towards doing all the other improvements and seeing if that will lower the temp enough.

Regardless the radiator in your Cruiser...you would be wise to address the other areas of improvement first. Simply because the means of cooling the engine is a 'system' and not dependent upon just one component. They all (fan, clutch, radiator, cap, t-stat) work in conjunction.

That said, for some reason...in recent years (perhaps quality control, or change in materials) the 2517 has earned a bad reputation. In years past this was not the case and even in recent years....the experiences here (that I've kept up with) run about 50/50.

Still, I think you will find yourself better served with an aluminum radiator.

As previously mentioned, I've had no issues with my 2517 but it is of older manufacture and I am in a different geographic area.
 
The engine is working hard and it's been hot here. Those temps don't sound too bad.

They sound very high to me. I similar temps and that is why I am in the middle of installing new radiator, water pump, and fan clutch.
 

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