Coolant spill clean up help (1 Viewer)

[MDarius]

We had a scare today. First we saw this:

Coolant. Weird that it was in the driver's side. Checked under the hood, no leakage. Went around the back and saw this:

What the...?? What leaks from the DS footwell AND the rear quarter??

A tipped over gallon of coolant with a loose lid. It ran all the way from the cargo area to the DS footwell. It's under the padding.

I'm looking for recommendations to clean it up. I have a small carpet cleaner, but do I really need to pull the carpet and pad out to clean it up? Because that's what I think I need to do. Notice the carpet looks dry between the cargo area and footwell.

 

[White Stripe]

You will have to have the loose lid person pull out the carpet and pressure wash it. Should help them remember to tighten the lid and secure fluids. At least it wasnt a jug of diesel

 

[MDarius]

I do have a pressure washer. Thoughts on protecting everything that's NOT the floor?

 

[Kernal]

As mentioned, pull the carpet in the front and rear, you;ll have to remove all the seats and the center console.

Liquids that spill in the cargo area (large amounts), some will flow forward and down to the sides of the floor in the rear seat area and go into a gutter, from there it will flow further forward to the front footwells.

Once the carpet is up you can pull a couple of the rubber plugs in the floor gutters to let the fluid and any rinse water out. No need to pressure wash
the floor (will want to wash out any coolant and other crud from the last 30 years). You will however want to clean the carpet while it's out of the vehicle using something like Woolite Carpet Cleaner then let it dry outside, preferably up off the ground draping over a couple of saw horses for example.


It wasn't clear from your post, was there also a separate leak up front or
just the gallon of coolant from the cargo area? The wet area shown in the driver's footwell area looks a bit high to have been all from the floor gutter, or maybe it just got pulled that high via capillary action??

Either way, good opportunity to take care of others things while the carpet is up, like fixing/painting any rust in the floor, adding new/extra carpet padding, running wires for speakers or rearview camera, adding sound dampening material, etc,etc.

 

[brockdeck]

Got to take everything out. Thoroughly rinse/clean/pressure wash the carpet and replace the jute before putting everything back in. My heater core leaked quite a lot into the passenger footwell, and after a lot of cleaning it is still stained and oily. Plan to replace all carpet with a kit from @dnp

 

[MDarius]

As mentioned, pull the carpet in the front and rear, you;ll have to remove all the seats and the center console.

Liquids that spill in the cargo area (large amounts), some will flow forward and down to the sides of the floor in the rear seat area and go into a gutter, from there it will flow further forward to the front footwells.

Once the carpet is up you can pull a couple of the rubber plugs in the floor gutters to let the fluid and any rinse water out. No need to pressure wash
the floor (will want to wash out any coolant and other crud from the last 30 years). You will however want to clean the carpet while it's out of the vehicle using something like Woolite Carpet Cleaner then let it dry outside, preferably up off the ground draping over a couple of saw horses for example.


It wasn't clear from your post, was there also a separate leak up front or
just the gallon of coolant from the cargo area? The wet area shown in the driver's footwell area looks a bit high to have been all from the floor gutter, or maybe it just got pulled that high via capillary action??

Either way, good opportunity to take care of others things while the carpet is up, like fixin/painting any rust in the floor, adding new/extra carpet padding, running wires for spearks or rearview camera, adding sound dampening material, etc,etc.

It was just the leaking gallon. The truck was pointing downhill a bit plus capillary action. Thanks for the clear recommendation.

 

[Irish Reiver]

I feel for you dude. I was taking some old oil back to Autozone to recycle and one of the gallon containers didn't have the lid secured. Probably lost 3/4 of it on the rear carpet before I noticed the smell. No amount of power-hosing the carpet worked. Ended up having to buy a new carpet

 

[MDarius]

Well, since I'm "in there", If I have struggles with cleaning the carpet (assuming the worst), I might just replace it. Here's a collection of threads to read later to figure this out. And, in case anyone else stumbles in here they might find it useful. This is not a restoration project. It's my beater '92 that belongs to my daughter (technically), so "like new" and OEM aren't necessary. Any other recommendations?

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Other Aftermarket:
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[MDarius]

Any thoughts about rubber or vinyl vs. jute and carpet when it comes to corrosion management?

 

[brettk]

Any thoughts about rubber or vinyl vs. jute and carpet when it comes to corrosion management?

As far as the carpet goes, id try pressure washing and cleaning it first. As weird as it sounds, listerine completely neutralizes the smell of diesel (long story). Maybe it’ll work on coolant too? If not, I’m sure there will be something out there that helps. Your carpet isn’t damaged, just stinky.

I don’t imagine Utah is very humid. Jute collects a lot of moisture, the reason most old cars in the south smell pretty musty. Instead of replacing it with more jute, id look into a cheap knockoff of Dynamat. I went with a “Siless” brand on Amazon and like it really well. 1 layer of butyl for sound deadening, and one layer of closed cell foam for insulation. If you have spills in the future, no worries about it soaking in.

 

[MDarius]

Yeah, we use this offroad a lot. There's a lot of mud that gets in, if not on boots and shoes then when you go bombing through a mud puddle with the sunroof open. Carpet just gets abused. I don't know if she'll want to go to a more cleanable flooring or stick with the carpet, but it's a good question to start asking as we prepare to pull everything out.

 

[MDarius]

As far as the carpet goes, id try pressure washing and cleaning it first. As weird as it sounds, listerine completely neutralizes the smell of diesel (long story). Maybe it’ll work on coolant too? If not, I’m sure there will be something out there that helps. Your carpet isn’t damaged, just stinky.

I don’t imagine Utah is very humid. Jute collects a lot of moisture, the reason most old cars in the south smell pretty musty. Instead of replacing it with more jute, id look into a cheap knockoff of Dynamat. I went with a “Siless” brand on Amazon and like it really well. 1 layer of butyl for sound deadening, and one layer of closed cell foam for insulation. If you have spills in the future, no worries about it soaking in.

Was one roll of each enough? Did you have to cut it up a lot or did it just lay down nicely?

 

[brettk]

Was one roll of each enough? Did you have to cut it up a lot or did it just lay down nicely?
View attachment 3296118

It comes in square rolls, so you’ll have to cut it to fit. I can’t remember exactly how much I got, but take a tape measure and measure out at the very least the floors, and rear fender wells. Length multiplied by Width will give you a rough idea of square footage. Order accordingly. It’s pretty easy, but do some research before you jump into it. You’ll want a roller for the butyl.

Since it’s adhesive backed, you can also line your rear quarter panels, doors, and under the headliner (95-97).

 

[Kernal]

I used Thermozite carpet padding, worked to decrease heat somewhat, only downside is the aluminum foil seems to break down over time with pressure/scruffing, but then it was treated roughly. There may be a better product, just one option FWIW

Thermozite Carpet Pad/Heat Shield

Texas Fabrics and Foam is your one stop shop for all home, commercial, and automotive upholstery fabrics, foam and supplies.

www.texasfabricsandfoam.com

 

[MDarius]

I went with the Siless products first suggested. I got 46 sq. ft. of the Butyl and 36 of the closed cell foam. I figure I'll start at the front and work my way back. If I run out I can leave the rear carpet out while I order more. I got the rollers as well. About $165. That's an expensive gallon of coolant. I need a hazmat container in the back.

 

[GeoRoss]

I used Thermozite carpet padding, worked to decrease heat somewhat, only downside is the aluminum foil seems to break down over time with pressure/scruffing, but then it was treated roughly. There may be a better product, just one option FWIW

Thermozite Carpet Pad/Heat Shield

Texas Fabrics and Foam is your one stop shop for all home, commercial, and automotive upholstery fabrics, foam and supplies.

www.texasfabricsandfoam.com

This is what I used too. It does help. I’ve noticed the passenger side is not nearly as hot from the exhaust now.

 

[MDarius]

We started last night and got all the seats and things removed by the time it got too dark to work. Back into it this morning. Pressure washing is great, but I wonder if a good quality suction carpet cleaner would be faster. (Videos in the Google photos album)
Morty interior refresh - https://photos.app.goo.gl/fFPKp72p1Ss45f9y7

 

[brettk]

We started last night and got all the seats and things removed by the time it got too dark to work. Back into it this morning. Pressure washing is great, but I wonder if a good quality suction carpet cleaner would be faster. (Videos in the Google photos album)
Morty interior refresh - https://photos.app.goo.gl/fFPKp72p1Ss45f9y7

View attachment 3299024

That’s a good idea. If the seats are cloth, grab the hose extentension for a rental unit while you’re at it.

 

[MDarius]

We used the pressure washer inside, just pulled all the plugs to drain. Then we used a leaf blower to mostly dry it, then hooked up the R2D2 type dehumidifier from the house for an hour. Worked great.

It looks like 46 sq. feet is enough to cover the floor, but not quite the wheel wells. Here's our dry fit.

We'll cut out for the floor bolts so we have metal to metal faces, and for any other openings and access points.