Coolant mist everywhere in engine bay (1 Viewer)

[midfat]

Was out in the desert this weekend doing some exploration. No hard off-roading, just exploring the endless sandy trails looking for a place to do some pew-pewing. Anyway, yesterday afternoon I start smelling the unmistakable sweet aroma of coolant. Looked in the engine bay and didn't see anything alarming. Fast forward to today and there was a small puddle of coolant at the bottom of the fan shroud. All of the hoses looked good and all of the clamps seemed to be in order. With a 150+ mile drive ahead of me, I kept my eye on the expansion tank and (UltraGauge) temps and headed home. Needed to top up the tank a few times on the drive, probably a liter or so of water total. Never overheated, but temps which are normally rock solid at 185* slowly climbed to to a consistent 194-199* by the time I got home. Once I was in the garage, I popped the hood to find an engine bay that coated in Toyota Red coolant mist.

Background: New OEM brass radiator about 25K miles ago and a full engine rebuild (factory fresh long block) about 5K miles ago. Assume teh radiator got damaged somehow, but any suggestions or thoughts on where to look what things got torn down in the coming days?

 

[nukegoat]

I had that happen just because of a loose hose clamp on the upper radiator hose. But I'd check those first, especially if you're using worm drive clamps. If you're using the spring clamps, but with old hoses, make sure they go back in the spot they 'lived in' prior, otherwise they can leak.

 

[Bambusiero]

New OEM brass radiator

This seems contradictory? - the OEM radiator is plastic tank & aluminum core, right?
Mine certainly was. After the plastic top tank cracked due to 20 year old age, had a brass aftermarket CSV for an unhappy 2 years of overheating.

 

[Railwelder93]

If it’s a mist in the engine bay I would guess either a leaking upper hose or pin hole in the rad. Coolant is hitting the fan from somewhere.

 

[Rusty Marlin]

this ^^^^

 

[midfat]

This seems contradictory? - the OEM radiator is plastic tank & aluminum core, right?
Mine certainly was. After the plastic top tank cracked due to 20 year old age, had a brass aftermarket CSV for an unhappy 2 years of overheating.

Early FJ80s came with a brass three-core radiator. Still has a plastic frame. In 1994 (I think), they changed to a two-core aluminum radiator to cut weight. When I overhauled the cooling systems a few years back, I elected to go with the earlier brass-core hypothesizing it would be more durable. That may have been a false assumption.

 

[midfat]

If it’s a mist in the engine bay I would guess either a leaking upper hose or pin hole in the rad. Coolant is hitting the fan from somewhere.

Most definitely hitting the fan. I'll look at the clamps again to ensure they are tight, but they looked good upon first inspection. Interestingly, it doesn't drip any coolant on the ground when parked, only leaks while the engine is running. Not even when the system is full temp/pressure. Only when the engine is running. If it is a pin hole, hopefully I can fix that with a dab of solder.

 

[Rifleman]

the OEM radiator is plastic tank & aluminum core, right?

Early FJ80s came with a brass three-core radiator. Still has a plastic frame. In 1994 (I think), they changed to a two-core aluminum radiator to cut weight.

The 91 to 94 (i know this is correct because i just bought a brand new factory brass radiator for my 94) came with the brass core, with plastic upper, and lower tanks. The 95 to 97 came with the aluminum core with upper and lower plastic tanks.

 

[Railwelder93]

Most definitely hitting the fan. I'll look at the clamps again to ensure they are tight, but they looked good upon first inspection. Interestingly, it doesn't drip any coolant on the ground when parked, only leaks while the engine is running. Not even when the system is full temp/pressure. Only when the engine is running. If it is a pin hole, hopefully I can fix that with a dab of solder.

If it only leaks when running then I would definitely think it’s a pin hole in the rad.

 

[BILT4ME]

Most definitely hitting the fan. I'll look at the clamps again to ensure they are tight, but they looked good upon first inspection. Interestingly, it doesn't drip any coolant on the ground when parked, only leaks while the engine is running. Not even when the system is full temp/pressure. Only when the engine is running. If it is a pin hole, hopefully I can fix that with a dab of solder.

I'm betting it is the seal (gasket) where the tank is crimped on the top of the core. Look for wetness along the top edge of the top tank first.

Wash everything down with a garden hose first to get rid of the excess mess. This will allow you to locate the current leak as it warms up. Let it dry before you stat up for observation.

 

[Railwelder93]

Do the brass radiators have brazed tanks? Or are they crimped like the aluminum and plastic ones?

 

[Broski]

I'm betting it is the seal (gasket) where the tank is crimped on the top of the core. Look for wetness along the top edge of the top tank first.

Wash everything down with a garden hose first to get rid of the excess mess. This will allow you to locate the current leak as it warms up. Let it dry before you stat up for observation.

This^^^

 

[Rifleman]

Do the brass radiators have brazed tanks? Or are they crimped like the aluminum and plastic ones?

If you read my response in post #8 above, you'd see the answer to that question. They came from the Factory with Plastic crimped tanks.

 

[Tachycardic]

Consider getting a new radiator cap.

 

[midfat]

Culprit found! Likely got a small chunk of wood or a stick that got kicked up and caught in the fan. It jacked my three year old OEM radiator, as well as gnarled the extreme edge of the fan blades. New fan and new radiator is it. The real dilemma now is what radiator. Ron Davis, Wizard Cooling, OEM or KoyoRad. Hmmm. What’s the largest radiator I can fit without a lift?

 

[flintknapper]

Culprit found! Likely got a small chunk of wood or a stick that got kicked up and caught in the fan. It jacked my three year old OEM radiator, as well as gnarled the extreme edge of the fan blades. New fan and new radiator is it. The real dilemma now is what radiator. Ron Davis, Wizard Cooling, OEM or KoyoRad. Hmmm. What’s the largest radiator I can fit without a lift?
View attachment 2613280View attachment 2613281

Yep, that one's knackered for sure.

 

[clx16]

Dang that is bad luck getting something on the inside of the fan shroud and doing damage.

Glad you had the ability to drive it home and repair in place of tracking that down on the trail.

 

[ajax1]

If you want a all metal radiator, csf makes one I have it. Fit was good, cools good, no plastic.
Does not have the foam like OEM

 

[flintknapper]

If you want a all metal radiator, csf makes one I have it. Fit was good, cools good, no plastic.
Does not have the foam like OEM

I put a 2517 in mine 8 years ago (almost to the day) and it has been good for me.....BUT in recent years quite a few folks here have complained about sub-par cooling from this radiator in their vehicles.

It has been discussed several times. No conclusive reasons arrived at for the disparity...but it is thought that 'something' must have changed with the radiator. Materials, Construction, Quality Control, something.

There were just too many bad reports to write it off as 'flukes'. I would say at present....the CSF 2517 has a 'tarnished' reputation (for cooling) even though mine and few others have done just fine.

 

[midfat]

I put a 2517 in mine 8 years ago (almost to the day) and it has been good for me.....BUT in recent years quite a few folks here have complained about sub-par cooling from this radiator in their vehicles.

It has been discussed several times. No conclusive reasons arrived at for the disparity...but it is thought that 'something' must have changed with the radiator. Materials, Construction, Quality Control, something.

There were just too many bad reports to write it off as 'flukes'. I would say at present....the CSF 2517 has a 'tarnished' reputation (for cooling) even though mine and few others have done just fine.

I’ll likely stick with an OEM radiator. The first one lasted 20+ years before the top blew along the seam. Second one was solid in almost all conditions, save for this past occurrence. And it certainly didn’t fail due to a quality or craftsmanship issue. (How the F does a stick or chunk of wood even get up and into that fan should? That is an extremely well protected area!)

Might do a Ron Davis or Wizard Cooling radiator, but damn that a steep price for something that can only be categorized as “mildly better” than OEM.