So you are saying just park the truck tilted up, and continue to fill at the radiator until I cant anymore? I havent tried that. Was thinking of renting a combustion leak test today.Did you top as outlined in post #12. Very often system is not properly topped after some job like timing belt or coolant flush, etc..
Front higher is best, as air bubbles raise to the high points. But some air get trapped. That's why it can take two or three cool down cycles to "burp" the air out.So you are saying just park the truck tilted up, and continue to fill at the radiator until I cant anymore? I havent tried that. Was thinking of renting a combustion leak test today.
Ok so I'll tell you what I did. I let the truck get up to operating with the heaters on. At first it was kinda like warm air but after it got fully warmed up it was really hot so I guess thats good. I kept the RPMs up to around 2k like you said for quite a while. I checked under the hood and the res was at full, which before it was a little under full. Research tells me that this is normal, as when the systems gets hot coolant spills back into the res. Correct?Yes but remember to drive or get to operating temp with both heaters set to high heat. You can turn fan off once temp set. Get engine to 2K RPM for a few minutes minimum. Cabin heat should blow very hot when cooling system full and working as designed.
If after 3 cool down cycles it still keeps needed more, especial about the same amount more. Then yes you've a leak.
If head gasket, it can usually be seen from outside. It is possible to inspect every inch of gasket. It can be internal only, but not what we normally see. Number 1 cause of blown head gasket, is warped head from overheating. This is from running low on coolant 9 out of 10 times.
Ah ok. I just replaced the rad cap with OEM so I know thats good. Actually the old one didnt look bad either. I'll report back after today's drive.Yes coolant expand and contacts with temperature. The radiator will or should always be full. The reservoir however, will raise and fall with temperature, provide you have a good working radiator cap.
Keep in mind. Even after a full 8 hour cool down. OAT (Outside Air Temp) will either raise or lower level in reservoir. Example. on a 100 F OAT day reservoir should be near full line. Whereas if OAT -10 F reservoir will be near low line.
You do not need to run engine at 2K RPM after driving. Driving takes care of getting RPM's up for you. That is only needed to simulate driving. Engine turning faster turns water pump faster. This increase flow of coolant, which helps move air out of pockets.
If you look at reservoir, just after a drive where engine is at operating temp. It should have raised to near full line. If radiator full, but reservoir not going up in down with temperatures. Then chance 98% you've a bad radiator cap.
That is backwards...when the engine is up to operating temp the level in the reservoir goes up (as the system expands) and when the engine is cold the level in the reservoir goes down (as the system contracts).When engine is running at its optimal temp, the water on the white reservoir (not the the radiator -the rad cap should always be closed at all times when engine is running) goes down a little. After using the vehicle, leave it for 8 hours or so to fully cool down, check the white coolant reservoir again you should notice the level will go back up.
There’s two levels of coolant in the reservoir, hot - low / cold - high.
I stand corrected. You’re right let me edit that. Thank you. Just noticed that now, have to focus on cooking supper first.That is backwards...when the engine is up to operating temp the level in the reservoir goes up (as the system expands) and when the engine is cold the level in the reservoir goes down (as the system contracts).
I like to see coolant into the neck of radiator, under the cap. I also like a minimum of 8 hours before taking cap off. It's import to not even loosen cap during cool down. So coolant should always be to neck now, after 8 (12 even better) hour cool down. If next time you check it is not, I'd top one more time. We want to see two times in a row, where coolant can not be added because it is so full. Both front and run heaters, should now be blowing very hot.Here are some pics I took tonight. 5 hours after letting it run, getting up it to temp and then revving it to 2k for a little while as I wasn't able to drive it. The coolant and the res was back up to Full.
I don't know if I need to add any coolant at this point but I know previous after a lot of driving I've need to add coolant.
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