Coolant leak. Not sure what is wrong

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Joined
Mar 1, 2020
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Location
Los Angeles
So I just took my fj on a 1000 mile journey (Los Angeles to Montana). I parked yesterday and had no problem. Just ran into town and came back to where I'm staying (2 miles). Parked and the fj was hissing. Looked under the hood and found a spraying leak. I attached a few photos. The spray had stopped when I took the photos. Just a dribbling leak. It was on the passenger side of the engine under the oil filter. I have no idea what the problem is or if it's an easy fix. Any ideas would be more than helpful. Thanks in advance!

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your photos are bit vague ?

get a old centennial , or thin wood dowel rod

apply yellow tape to end

pin point exact location , i mean exact coolant leak was coming from

this was folks can help ?

all i see is dark shadows and oil leaks


think outside the box to make the diagnosis happen ............


matt
 
your photos are bit vague ?

get a old centennial , or thin wood dowel rod

apply yellow tape to end

pin point exact location , i mean exact coolant leak was coming from

this was folks can help ?

all i see is dark shadows and oil leaks


think outside the box to make the diagnosis happen ............


matt
Okay.. No yellow tape.. Hopefully white is okay. I took a couple pictures from under the fj... It wasn't working up top. I took one from the rear forward and one from the front toward the rear.

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That looks like a very old oil cooler line leaking at the metal union with the rubber hose. I bet @ToyotaMatt could hook you up with parts or City racer sells a hose kit. You would also want new clamps. Would need to drain the radiator at the least to replace it.
 
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where in MT are you?

that section of hose is nothing special, just a straight section of heater hose, easy to change other than losing most of the coolant because it is a low point.
next would be if you want to change other hoses while the coolant is drained.

just looked at the pics again and some of the other hoses look "newer" so probably no need to change any other hoses. you could also clamp the upper hose and be quick with the change and not lose much coolant.
 
where in MT are you?

that section of hose is nothing special, just a straight section of heater hose, easy to change other than losing most of the coolant because it is a low point.
next would be if you want to change other hoses while the coolant is drained.

just looked at the pics again and some of the other hoses look "newer" so probably no need to change any other hoses. you could also clamp the upper hose and be quick with the change and not lose much coolant.


I'm in Sheridan. I'm still learning how to work on this bad boy. Is changing the heater hose easy enough? Just pull off and replace. Then refill the coolant?
 
That looks like a very old oil cooler line leaking at the metal union with the rubber hose. I bet @ToyotaMatt could hook you up with parts or City racer sells a hose kit. You would also want new clamps.



That looks like a very old oil cooler line leaking at the metal union with the rubber hose. I bet @ToyotaMatt could hook you up with parts or City racer sells a hose kit. You would also want new clamps. Would need to drain the radiator at the least to replace it.
Thank you! I appreciate it.
where in MT are you?

that section of hose is nothing special, just a straight section of heater hose, easy to change other than losing most of the coolant because it is a low point.
next would be if you want to change other hoses while the coolant is drained.

just looked at the pics again and some of the other hoses look "newer" so probably no need to change any other hoses. you could also clamp the upper hose and be quick with the change and not lose much coolant.


send me a PM

i can have 2 new oem clamps and a section of JIS oil cooler hose mailed out first thing

over nighted if this is a emergency ?

USPS express mail is a ultra cost effective :cool: option .........


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I’ll be at my Asian Parts house at 6am

im about 6” short tonight :D

but u get the idea

New clamps new hose

your back on the road

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I'm in Sheridan. I'm still learning how to work on this bad boy. Is changing the heater hose easy enough? Just pull off and replace. Then refill the coolant?


Yes, very easy, it will be messy because of where it is located, the current hose is very oily from changing the oil filter above it, the parts can be purchased at the Napa on main street there in Sheridan, they close early 5 or 6pm, not sure what time they open, probably 7 or 8am.
cost will be minimum a 1 foot section of 5/8"?? hose 2 clamps and some coolant, assuming you have basic hand tools with you, I'm 2 hours north of you.

are you fishing?
 
I'm in Sheridan. I'm still learning how to work on this bad boy. Is changing the heater hose easy enough? Just pull off and replace. Then refill the coolant?


NO cost involved to be clear

just MUD SHIP with the correct parts for the job is the lesson here ..........
 
Yes, very easy, it will be messy because of where it is located, the current hose is very oily from changing the oil filter above it, the parts can be purchased at the Napa on main street there in Sheridan, they close early 5 or 6pm, not sure what time they open, probably 7 or 8am.
cost will be minimum a 1 foot section of 5/8"?? hose 2 clamps and some coolant, assuming you have basic hand tools with you, I'm 2 hours north of you.

are you fishing?

I plan on doing a bit of fishing. Visiting my family. If you'd like to do a bit of fishing I'd love to go! I'm not too good at it but I enjoy it.
 
On reason that hose dies early (you know, like 20 years or so ;)) is that the outside of the hose gets hit with oil from the filter when you change the oil. I guess the solution is to either change the hose more often, or wipe the oil from this hose after every filter change. Kudos to @ToyotaMatt for his offer!
 
I decided with all the effort to get martin home safe and FJ60 alive

i simply used these diagrams to conclude he could worst case need 6' feet and 6 oem gold cad double wire bayonet clamps ?

well ....................just in case

to encompass the entire oil cooler system in new epdm solid hose .......... 🤔



and qty x 8 new clamps too

because re-using old rusty land cruiser parts twice is simply
so passe' .........:rolleyes:







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USPS express overnight shipping is live !

and ready to roll out of the skunk works now


Along with some limited edition collectors. Cards too ... :D


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just a few tips for replacing heater hose...

1. obviously drain the coolant from the radiator into a large clean oil drain pan, there is a plastic plug that unscrews at the passenger side bottom. No need to completely remove it ..once it is partially out it will drain. This may be cleaner with less splashing than simply pulling the heater hose off with all the coolant spraying everywhere. You can re-use this and pour it back into the radiator when you are done. Import radiators have small necks and you have to trickle the coolant back in. If you go to fast it will run over.

Plan on topping off the coolant with some additional coolant of the same variety. In other words buy a gallon of coolant. 50/50 or concentrate that you mix. You will invariably loose some coolant on the ground.

2. Once the radiator is empty, pry off the old hose with a pair of channel locking pliers. Plan on catching a bit more coolant here with your drain pan. Using a twisting motion on the hose where it is stuck to the metal will help to break the bond that has occurred between the metal and the hard rubber hose.

3. Putting some silicone or other lubricant gel just an inch or so inside the new hose will help it to slide into position on the metal line. Vasoline or petroleum jelly will work but some will say it is bad for the rubber. I've used it plenty and have never had a problem with degrading the hose.

4. Plan on burping your motor once the coolant has been refilled. Start it up get it to op temps and watch to make sure the engine temps don't get too hot. Check the new hoses while going thru this to make sure they are not leaking and tighten any you need to. Turn the motor off once you are up to operating temps and let things cool down. Once it cools down you will need to top off the radiator again. You may need to do this a few times. The idea is to get the thermostat hot enough to open and cycle some of the coolant from the radiator into the block. Some park there truck facing uphill to help in burping the air out.
 
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