This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I like that sharpie technique for finding the center!
- Thread starter
- #64
Thanks. I saw it on one of Stoffregen’s builds on expedition portal.
- Thread starter
- #65
Made some progress today.
What an incredible build, that guy has some serious skills. I like the shroud you are building. TIG welding that?
Edit, I see a mig gun now, ignore
- Thread starter
- #67
Agreed. He does some very good work. He’s got another 60 series thread over there that is worth flipping through as well, if you haven’t seen it.
Yeah just a little harbor freight mig machine that I bought a few years ago to weld patches into my rusty roof. Part of the reason I moved away from the universal fan shrouds was because they were aluminum and I have no ability to cleanly modify them. Much happier with the steel box.
- Thread starter
- #69
Made some progress on the shroud. Got it painted poorly during the warmest part of the day and mocked up. I'm certainly not going to be winning any awards for prettiest welds, but I think it should work fine.
I used some c-channel edge trim that I saw in this thread for my headlight bezels (which I'll hopefully be reinstalling soon). It worked well for the top, bottom, and one edge of the fan ring. There are some small gaps here and there, but seems like it sealed up agains the radiator pretty well.
I used some c-channel edge trim that I saw in this thread for my headlight bezels (which I'll hopefully be reinstalling soon). It worked well for the top, bottom, and one edge of the fan ring. There are some small gaps here and there, but seems like it sealed up agains the radiator pretty well.
- Thread starter
- #70
Some progress getting the front end back together and hoses run. Now trying to get wiring and intake sorted. Intake is tricky with the mechanical fan, but thinking I'll be able to make it work with shimming up the airbox and using a few different silicone pieces.
- Thread starter
- #71
Also received new speedhut tach with matching face design courtesy of Mosley. @JDUB fab was nice enough to 3d print a bracket for me based on @blbuck12 's file posted in his thread. It was either buy a dakota digital box to convert the signal, or pay a bit more for a speedhut tach. Hoping to tear the dash apart soon for install.
And got AC hoses cut and marked for crimping.
And got AC hoses cut and marked for crimping.
That tach looks sharp. @cruisermatt says it's a one-wire connect to the swap harness and higher RPM limit. Nice.
Following as I'm trying to figure out my A/C line routing. I was under the impression I could re-use 2 of my original lines going from firewall->dryer->condenser. Is that not possible/advisable?
Thank you for the vacuum solution for the 62 xfer, that answered another one of my questions!
Thank you for the vacuum solution for the 62 xfer, that answered another one of my questions!
- Thread starter
- #74
Sorry - missed this somehow. Yes, you can reuse those two lines. My firewall-to-dryer hose would have been quite long, and with moving the dryer further from the condenser not sure reusing that hose would have worked for mine either. I got them crimped and installed last week.
- Thread starter
- #75
Slow going, but ticking things off the list.
Had to make a new driver side hard brake line after accidentally putting a crimp in it sometime during motors being removed/installed. Also deleted the LSPV and removed the second hard line going to the rear per Matt's thread here. (LSPV is for sale in the classifieds if anyone needs it).
Also got the transmission cooler lines built and the cooler installed. This pic is the test fit - I ended up snaking the lines above the frame instead of through that hole. When I put the lower valence on it rubbed the lines with this routing.
New headlights and harness from Susquehanna Motorsports to add to my growing list of electrical projects.
Speedhut Tach mounted after painting the 3d printed bracket. Also swapped in new 70 series vents in the center which have the open/close feature like the outside vents.
Checking easy big things off the list at this point and put the front trim on. Was debating on doing the front bumper as well, but decided to wait on that instead of eliminating 50% of my work area in front of the truck.
TO DO:
Had to make a new driver side hard brake line after accidentally putting a crimp in it sometime during motors being removed/installed. Also deleted the LSPV and removed the second hard line going to the rear per Matt's thread here. (LSPV is for sale in the classifieds if anyone needs it).
Also got the transmission cooler lines built and the cooler installed. This pic is the test fit - I ended up snaking the lines above the frame instead of through that hole. When I put the lower valence on it rubbed the lines with this routing.
New headlights and harness from Susquehanna Motorsports to add to my growing list of electrical projects.
Speedhut Tach mounted after painting the 3d printed bracket. Also swapped in new 70 series vents in the center which have the open/close feature like the outside vents.
Checking easy big things off the list at this point and put the front trim on. Was debating on doing the front bumper as well, but decided to wait on that instead of eliminating 50% of my work area in front of the truck.
TO DO:
- Torque all AN fittings
- Install front driveshaft
- Throttle cable
- Intake
- Add oil to AC compressor
- Pull vacuum on AC system
- Jump AFM for fuel pump
- Eliminate unused factory headlight wiring
- Test fit PSI harness and trim where needed
- Re-loom toyota harness with PSI harness
- TCC
- Turn down and thread Toyota water temp sensor after breaking the super expensive Marks 4wd adapter because I am an idiot
- Install new stereo wiring harness and stereo
- Install accessory fuse panel in passenger kick panel for seat heat and other stuff
- Trim Tuffy console to fit around rear heater
- Apply new stickers to blinker and headlight stalks on combo switch, and rear heater switch
- Install hood with snazzy new gas struts
- Finish running battery and ground cables
- Install front bumper and winch with new cutoff switch for main power
- FLUIDS - Tranny, PS, coolant, brake
- Bleed brakes
- Exhaust (buy portaband and SWAG stand, watch youtube videos on SS welding with my harbor freight welder)
Last edited:
Great progress! you're a tad ahead of me but our checklists are about same.... I found the factory Fuel pump wire coming off the Circuit Opening Relay behind the passenger kick plate if you're interested in using. I'm using a Tanks Inc pump (with an adaptor for the 62 tank with their sending unit too). Hoping to finish up my aux cooling and fuel lines this week.
- Thread starter
- #77
Great to hear! Which motor are you swapping in? And yes please on the fuel pump wire. I haven’t dug into that kick panel yet, but would prefer to eliminate the AFM and COR if possible and wIre a stand-alone relay for fuel pump. I’m all ears for clean solutions.
@adman02 just did a nice little writeup on the electrical for his 62 swap, and mentions a small gauge red wire exiting the COR.
I’m doing a 6.2L crate with 6L80e. It came with an independent relay for the fuel pump. Here’s the wire. I ran a test wire from the pump end to confirm continuity. It’s the bottom relay, just slide it off its post and unplug it. I jammed a small connector tool in there to release it from the plug so I didn’t have to cut it. If you go with a tanks inc FP, I can share my PN along with the guy here who makes a conversion bracket for 100% screw into existing 62 fuel tank.
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
Nice to see my adapter in use
Thanks Tommy! Made everything easy!
