Contradicting info, frustration ensues (1 Viewer)

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Aug 18, 2017
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Fellow mudders, I'll lay out the situation.

Rebuilt my 2F, H42 and transfer case.
Recently re-installed the whole power train, cleaned up wires, filled with fluids, fixed a couple small leaks and attempted to start it.

Here's the issue.
I static-timed the ignition using a FSM I found on mud. (See screenshot below)
Did not fire. Couple sneezes, backfires, etc.

Getting fuel, rebuilt Holley. Pump is working great.
Getting spark on all plugs, bright.
HEI is working.
Truck ran pretty well before the rebuild, decent power, quick start-ups, just lots of blow-by. (But was about a week away from spinning a bearing!)

I found another US-Spec, FJ40 FSM showing a different timing procedure, different oil pump alignment, different plug/rotor alignment and it's shows using the BB, not the notch. I was under the impression the BB was for the timing light.
The truck refuses to start. I'm positive it's at #1 TDC, pushrods rotate with slight resistance.
I've had the dizzy in and out a dozen times, made sure the wires were correct and rotated it every direction and it just won't cooperate.

What am i missing?

Screenshot_20190614-004306.png


Screenshot_20190614-004214.png
 
Go it running, it was tight valves. I forgot about the head being shaved.
New problem!
It had great oil pressure when it was running, right near the high psi line then it dropped to nothing almost immediately.
I tested the gauge, it pegs when grounded.
The sender is oriented correct, arrow faces up.
The pump is brand-new, later year style.
I have not attached a mech gauge yet, mine is in storage.
I remember having this problem years ago and I had to prime the filter with a blob of grease, it worked.

Any quick ways of establishing wheather it's pumping oil?
 
You can take the valve cover off and watch oil drip from the rocker assembly. Be aware that it could be messy.

You could also get a generic mechanical gauge and use it temporarily in the engine bay.
 
You can take the valve cover off and watch oil drip from the rocker assembly. Be aware that it could be messy.

You could also get a generic mechanical gauge and use it temporarily in the engine bay.
Thanks for the response. Didn't see anything up top, ha d the cover off as it was running. I'm suspecting the worst. The dizzy is not fully seating into the pump. I'm in the process of grinding off the flange now, going to use a split clamp to adjust the depth and a tab welded for the hold-down bolt.
Doing more research.
Anyone else agree?
Yeah, I probably will end up rocking an FJ60 dizzy in the future but the Hei worked for a while, now it makes me nervous.😓
 
1. Go it running, it was tight valves. I forgot about the head being shaved.

2. Any quick ways of establishing wheather it's pumping oil?
1. If you adjusted your valve lash (0.008" intake, 0.014" exhaust) it wouldn't matter if the head was shaved or not.
2. Dent the side of your oil filter. If there's any pressure at all, it will push the dent out.

I have no comments on your approach to solving the distributor clamping problem.
 
That's the thing, I forgot to adjust the valves when I put it together haphazardly 6 months ago before a move. Never got it together/running, had to winch it on and off trailers. Runs now, fires up fast and idles smooth.

I can see where the flat drive on the dizzy shaft was literally just pressed against the oil pump drive to make pressure. No bueno!

Haha, "no comment" as in:
"if you don't have anything nice to say, don't say it at all" kind of no comment?
It'll work, I'll take pics when I'm done. I just did a test-fit with the flange ground off and I have full pump engagement on the drive shaft and I measured my dizzy gear location in relation to the cam and it lines up perfect.
I'm confident. I'll keep you guys posted!😁

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