constant pull and vague steering (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jul 1, 2007
Threads
79
Messages
882
Location
Erie, Co
Ever since I got my 80 it has had steering and vibration problems associated with the 4" lift the prior owner installed. Just got it back from another shop cause I clearly don't know what to fix myself, and while some of the issues like the vibrations were resolved, the vagueness and the constant pull are still there and it drives me crazy, basically have to hold my wheel at 11 o'clock.

Symptom: Truck drives a little vague as if it has a lack of caster, follows the crown of the road and on highways pretty much always pulls to the right enough that I don't want to take it on road trips. Seems to be fine going on a completely level road, but as most of our roads have a crown it has that constant pull when in any right lane. I'm hoping this isn't something I just have to live with as my lifted 60 and 40 don't have this issue at all.

What I've done for this issue so far:
1) Installed caster plates. I now have 3.5* caster.
2) Tightened wheel bearings
3) Replaced both front and rear pan hard bars with new OEM
4) Completely rebuilt steering box with new worm gear and all that mess
5) Had control arms checked, and while the bushings have some wear was told they are still in good shape
6) Alignment, added toe in to get to OEM spec
7) Swapped tires side to side, checked for correct pressures
8) Added pan hard lift bracket to rear axle

The shop mentioned maybe trying to add offset bearings for the camber, that may be my next move but if anyone has suggestions on something else I can look into, don't hold back.

alignment2.jpg
 
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This alignment was from the shop prior, and while I have messed with the caster and toe, the camber didn't change yet there are differing results. Can't seem to get a shop that agrees for whatever reason.

alignment.jpg
 
Seems like many of the original calipers on these are starting to seize up. It might very well be your problem.

If that checks out, I would plan on doing an axle service with new wheel bearings and trunion bearings. Check all the components for any odd wear.
 
I was going to say caliper as well.
 
Anyone know if there is a section in the FSM for how much effort it should take to turn the steering wheel? My truck is on 35's but the effort on this truck is quite a lot. I'm wondering if that has something to do with my issues as well. I'm at about 6 lbs on the fish scale to get it to move. This has always been the case even before I did any work to the caster.

-edit, found it. Don't think that's a test I'm gonna be doing especially since it doesn't even tell you how to troubleshoot it if the results vary. If anyone knows what the "fish scale" effort is I would love to hear a comparison.

steering effort.jpg
 
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Sooo this may not be something you wanna do but...Have you considered going back to stock height?
 
Drive the truck for a good 5 miles or so and then bring it back to the house. Immediately lightly mist the rotors. The hiss or lack thereof should all sound the same. I noticed pulling with my truck and did this test. 3 out of 4 rotors hissed from boiling water. The driver's side front was cold from the caliper not moving.
 
If that would magically fix my issues, sure. It's my wife's truck. Would that fix my issues.. no. Been in other trucks bigger (lift and tires) that handled much better, so I'm skeptical to think that others have figured out the magic bullet with bigger vehicles that can't be replicated, but I will admit I don't know much on the physics of why. Heck, my 40 is SOA on 35's and it drives much nicer and perfectly straight.

Sooo this may not be something you wanna do but...Have you considered going back to stock height?
 
Wouldn't this indicate a constant pulling to one side only. I probably need to better describe my symptom. If the crown is on the left, it will pull hard to the left, if on the right, hard to the right. I'm happy to do this as well, but logic says if it pulls differently based on slope, then it isn't likely a brake. I say it's a constant pull, cause in america i'm always driving on highways that slope to the right, but my pull would be opposite in Australia, as experienced by passing rigs on two lane highways, the truck will try to dart off into the opposite shoulder.

Can't hurt to try it though, I'll post back with results.

Drive the truck for a good 5 miles or so and then bring it back to the house. Immediately lightly mist the rotors. The hiss or lack thereof should all sound the same. I noticed pulling with my truck and did this test. 3 out of 4 rotors hissed from boiling water. The driver's side front was cold from the caliper not moving.
 
Wouldn't this indicate a constant pulling to one side only. I probably need to better describe my symptom. If the crown is on the left, it will pull hard to the left, if on the right, hard to the right. I'm happy to do this as well, but logic says if it pulls differently based on slope, then it isn't likely a brake. I say it's a constant pull, cause in america i'm always driving on highways that slope to the right, but my pull would be opposite in Australia, as experienced by passing rigs on two lane highways, the truck will try to dart off into the opposite shoulder.
Yes. In your description I read flat roads are ok but right lane is pull hard to the right. I have the same issue with my truck to a certain degree. I have to compensate for the crown of the road. It isn't as bad as you describe. My caster is 2.9 and 3.1.
 
I've been all over the caster spectrum on this truck and while it does ever so slightly make it feel nicer, it still wants to follow the crown badly. Gone from almost no caster to 5* and everything in between. It really feels like it needs more caster, but the more caster I provide, the more I'm fighting the wheel while it's pushing against me when the road is sloped.

Maybe the pull I am experiencing is what many others are experiencing as well but I notice it more cause the steering is so hard to turn? Most people that drive my truck comment on just how hard the wheel is to move, which is not the case on my other cars with same or bigger tires. I wonder if your pull is like mine. If you were on the highway in the right lane, and your exit came up, could you let your hands off the wheel and it would follow the exit?

Yes. In your description I read flat roads are ok but right lane is pull hard to the right. I have the same issue with my truck to a certain degree. I have to compensate for the crown of the road. It isn't as bad as you describe. My caster is 2.9 and 3.1.
 
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I've been all over the caster spectrum on this truck and while it does ever so slightly make it feel nicer, it still wants to follow the crown badly. Gone from almost no caster to 5* and everything in between. It really feels like it needs more caster, but the more caster I provide, the more I'm fighting the wheel while it's pushing against me when the road is sloped.

Maybe the pull I am experiencing is what many others are experiencing as well but I notice it more cause the steering is so hard to turn? Most people that drive my truck comment on just how hard the wheel is to move, which is not the case on my other cars with same or bigger tires. I wonder if your pull is like mine. If you were on the highway in the right lane, and your exit came up, could you let your hands off the wheel and it would follow the exit?
Is the power steering pump whining? If you jack up the front end and remove the wheels, is the steering lighter? Is your steering stablilzer shot? I've completely gone over my steering with custom drop brackets, power steering pump replacement, and steering box rebuild. My reservior tube is leaking but it is manageable.
 
Excellent questions. No whine, in fact the power steering pump and all associated hoses are brand new OEM as of a month ago and appear to work great.

I'll jack up the truck and see about that tomorrow. Not sure how to tell on the stabilizer but I had thought about removing it and seeing how the truck does without it.

Is the power steering pump whining? If you jack up the front end and remove the wheels, is the steering lighter? Is your steering stablilzer shot? I've completely gone over my steering with custom drop brackets, power steering pump replacement, and steering box rebuild. My reservior tube is leaking but it is manageable.
 
If it pulls the direction of the slope, it is a toe issue. You need more toe-in. Big tires accentuate the issue.

As far as hard steering:
Trunnion rollers new/old? Worn out? They only roll in a very narrow part of the bearing, so they have high wear. If not replaced, they COULD be binding.
Tie rod ends. Have they been greased? Worn out?
Was the steering gear CENTERED before the steering wheel was placed or the drag link was adjusted? Maybe your gear is operating to one side or the other of its full range.
Does the gear need to be adjusted?

Is the harmonic balance bolt torqued to 304 LB-FT? That's what drives the oil pump, PS pump. This has been the case before and no one knew it for thousands of miles due to the poor accuracy of the oil pressure gauges.
 
Great info. I'll look into these, maybe play with the toe in a bit as well. Really couldn't say on the history of the trunnion or anything in the axle. Not sure if there is a way for me to verify without tearing into it enough to justify doing a rebuild anyway. I'm not sure how to tell on the centering of the steering gear either, but can ask the shop that did the work.

Doing a rebuild on a spare engine at the moment, so I will know soon enough if the harmonic balancer isn't tight enough.

If it pulls the direction of the slope, it is a toe issue. You need more toe-in. Big tires accentuate the issue.

As far as hard steering:
Trunnion rollers new/old? Worn out? They only roll in a very narrow part of the bearing, so they have high wear. If not replaced, they COULD be binding.
Tie rod ends. Have they been greased? Worn out?
Was the steering gear CENTERED before the steering wheel was placed or the drag link was adjusted? Maybe your gear is operating to one side or the other of its full range.
Does the gear need to be adjusted?

Is the harmonic balance bolt torqued to 304 LB-FT? That's what drives the oil pump, PS pump. This has been the case before and no one knew it for thousands of miles due to the poor accuracy of the oil pressure gauges.
 

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