Compressor having a hard time restarting.

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Hi Folks,

I have an older 8 gallon compressor that has always worked fine for me. I had a 100 amp circuit in my shop in Idaho and never had a problem. The compressor sat for about six months in the basement of my townhouse, but ran fine after moving to our current house. I have a 15 amp breaker in the house for the garage. The compressor will dim the lights when it starts for the first time, but then I can have it and lights, chargers, radio, dremel, etc running all together. Usually on the third or fourth cycle, the compressor tries to start, but the motor has a real hard time getting it moving. This sometimes pops the breaker if I can't get to the switch fast enough. If I let it sit for ten minutes or so, then it works fine for another few cycles.

Temperature doesn't seem to affect it. Duty cycle doesn't seem to matter(immediate cycling or 5 minutes in between) The oil is good.


Any ideas? Is this a wiring issue with an undersized circuit or a compressor problem?

Thanks!

Dan
 
Id put it on a 20-30 amp breaker and see if that helps. If not your compressor contact switch is going out. Any electrical supply house should have one. Mike
 
is your compressor unloader working properly? it takes the pressure off the piston. when they shut off it hisses, might have gummed up with oil? Might need a new check valve and unloader. Mcmaster carr or Grainger will have those parts for sure.
 
is your compressor unloader working properly? it takes the pressure off the piston. when they shut off it hisses, might have gummed up with oil? Might need a new check valve and unloader. Mcmaster carr or Grainger will have those parts for sure.

That makes some sense, I think I removed and plugged the line that goes from the head to the pressure switch. I don't remember why, but I think it was broken. It doesn't hiss when it shuts off anymore, it just stops.

As far as the garage, breaker, I can change it out, but I am unsure of the quality of the wiring to the garage. It isn't real long run--less than 30 feet, but I don't want to burn the place down. It looks like standard romex.
 
That makes some sense, I think I removed and plugged the line that goes from the head to the pressure switch. I don't remember why, but I think it was broken. It doesn't hiss when it shuts off anymore, it just stops.

As far as the garage, breaker, I can change it out, but I am unsure of the quality of the wiring to the garage. It isn't real long run--less than 30 feet, but I don't want to burn the place down. It looks like standard romex.

That will do it. You need a new pressure switch with the air release valve.
 
Yep just throwing a breaker in is not a good idea unless you can verify it is 12g wire. Romex jacket might have info on it but some maybe 14g and only a 15A capacity.
30 feet run is not bad though to run a dedicated circuit.
 
2 things to check.. New check valve with autounloader or just replace the unloader. If it's just the unloader they're cheap. check valve is cheaper than new compressor.
 
Quick google.. I don't think I can describe them without looking at a compressor.
Unloadervalve : the unloader valve helps your compressor re-start.
Pressure Switch: Diagnose a pressure switch problem?
There are check valves out there that have unloaders built into them. I think I put one on a york a # of years ago on my FJ40. Otherwise there is a hose from your check valve to your pressure switch that kicks a valve when the pressure switch trips letting out the hiss sound and taking the pressure off the head of the piston of the compressor.
Grainger or mcmaster would have what you need. Square d might be able to be picked up locally.
 
Thanks for the info, I'll check it out and see what will work the best. I have the compressor tucked away behind my tool box and under the work bench, so I'll have to move some stuff to get to it. On a side note, is there anything that mcmaster does not have?
 
McMaster? Not have? Dunno.. I've used them for parts for tire carriers etc before..
I hate storing the Huge catalog.. it's a great resouce.. Enco is another along with grainger.. i've not found grainger in the past to be very good with personal purchases but they may have changed. Good luck. Let us know it's fixed or if you have further problems.

Some of the problems your running into others have faced when hooking up their onboard air setups. That's when I found the checkvalve autounloader. It needs to have a certain amount of air flowing thru it before the check valve "sets" and I think I got it from McMaster. Would probably be a simple fix.

Have you "drained" the tank of all pressure and see if the compressor fires up when there is no backpressure on the head? that will help you determine if it's the piston assembly going south.
I'd also file the contact points in the switch with a points file. Switch should say "squareD" on it but not guaranteed depending on brand of compressor.
Is it direct drive or belt driven? If it's belt can you remove the belts and fire the motor to determine if it's the load or moter or if it's something else. And what's the motor say on it for amp needed?
I run a dedicated 220 circuit for my welder and compressor but mine's a tad bigger than yours..
 
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