Compressor dead? (1 Viewer)

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Location
Houston, TX
It's reading ~110 psi on both the high and low ports.

Toyota parts lists the compressor:
88320-60490-84 (From 199208 to 199305)
88320-60580-84 (From 199305 to 199801)

I have a 1993. There's a sticker on the compressor that says R134a. I assumed this means I have the "From 199305 to 199801" compressor? Denso does not list a part on their website for a 1993, but I think it's because they assume it's an R12 compressor. Does anyone have a part number?
 
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On Toyota's vehicle specification site, my VIN returns:
Model: 1993 Land Cruiser
Date of First Use: January 21, 1994
Order Date: 06/1993
 
I assume if both the high and low sides are the same pressure, then it's not compressing.
Yeah, if it's actually on. But when off that's normal
 
Itll equalize hi/low when not engaged. Should be able to google static pressure/ambient temp/pressure chart. Also hi/low running chart/ambient temp. Air flow over condenser will affect running pressures as well.
 
Was the front hub of the compressor engaged when you were checking the pressures? If so, the compressor isn't pumping, otherwise those are reasonable static pressures. The R12 and R134a compressors (Denso #471-1166) are identical except it comes with PAG46 (ND8) oil which is not compatible with R12. You can just drain that oil out and replace with mineral oil (ND6) if you're staying with R12.
 
Itll equalize hi/low when not engaged. Should be able to google static pressure/ambient temp/pressure chart. Also hi/low running chart/ambient temp. Air flow over condenser will affect running pressures as well.


^^^^^

This.


IF the pressures were taken without the compressor running, you were measuring the static pressure (normal for it to be roughly the same on both sides). 110 psi would correspond to an ambient around 95°F.

IF those pressures were taken with the compressor running...then yes....it's knackered.
 
I’ll check when I get home, but I’m fairly certain it was running. The engine RPM would drop when I turned the A/C on.
 
I’ll check when I get home, but I’m fairly certain it was running. The engine RPM would drop when I turned the A/C on.


Check it 'visually'. You can see the compressor and clutch (lower drivers side) and look to see if the clutch has engaged. It will usually engage with an audible 'click' as well.
 
I’ll check when I get home, but I’m fairly certain it was running. The engine RPM would drop when I turned the A/C on.
Make sure bro
 
Just checked and the clutch doesn’t seem to engage.

If it's a bit low on freon, then it won;t engage. There's a switch built in for that.
 
Just checked and the clutch doesn’t seem to engage.

IF it clearly is not engaging then you'll need to jump 12V directly to the compressor to see IF the clutch will work at all.

You have enough static pressure in the system to satisfy the low pressure switch so unless defective (switch) it should allow the compressor clutch to engage when 'called for'.

There are number of electrical reasons why it might not engage, but we need to know first that it is capable.

Let us know.
 
Am I supposed to jump +12V from the battery to the compressor quick connector when the car is off or running? The clutch does not click when I jump it with the truck off.

There does seem to be some current draw because when I lift the wire from the battery there is some spark.
 
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Am I supposed to jump +12V from the battery to the compressor quick connector when the car is off or running? The clutch does not click when I jump it with the truck off.

OFF. Use wires right off of the battery or another external 12v. source. The electro-magnetic clutch will pull in (toward the compressor) with an audible click. You can also see it move. Make sure you've got a good ground.

Check to see that the air-gap is correct also. Should be about .020-.025" or thereabouts.

compressor-clutch.jpg
 
OFF. Use wires right off of the battery or another external 12v. source. The electro-magnetic clutch will pull in (toward the compressor) with an audible click. You can also see it move. Make sure you've got a good ground.

Check to see that the air-gap is correct also. Should be about .020-.025" or thereabouts.

View attachment 2057381
Ok, it is not clicking or moving when voltage is applied.
 
I think I was looking at the wrong thing. The clutch in your diagram turns when I turn on the A/C. There is an inner cylinder/shaft that does not.
 
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I think I was looking at the wrong thing. The clutch in your diagram turns when I turn on the A/C. There is an inner cylinder/shaft that does not.

So.....you are telling me the clutch DOES engage when you turn on the A/C switch in the cab and DOES disengage when you turn it off?

It clicks on and off? Or visually turns and and disengages (not turning)?
 
So.....you are telling me the clutch DOES engage when you turn on the A/C switch in the cab and DOES disengage when you turn it off?

It clicks on and off? Or visually turns and and disengages (not turning)?
I've attached a photo. #1 spins whether the A/C is on or off. #2 does not move whether the A/C is on or off.

IMG_8151.JPG
 

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