Is there a complete list of recommended fluids for the 1997 TLC 80? I have a Chiltons but am worried it may be outdated.
moralien
Do you have your factory manual? That should cover it.
- Thread starter
- #3
Yes I do, I am just looking for more of a definitive answer. Also, it leaves out types of drive train oils and transfer case lub. Also, what quantities do I need to buy?
landtank
Supporting Vendor
SILVER Star
your owners manual has that info if you have it.
moralien
Look closer at your manual it lists all the recommended fluids for:
Engine, Cooling system, Transfer case, Auto transmission, Differentials, Brakes, Wheel Bearings, Steering Knuckles, Driveshaft, Power steering.
Of course the muffler bearings take a special additive to keep them working properly as does your headlight reservoirs. I hear the juice in those is especially pricey.
Of course if you can't find any of these in your factory manual (should be conveniently located in your glove box) then give me a request for what ever you need filled and I will be happy to oblige.
Engine, Cooling system, Transfer case, Auto transmission, Differentials, Brakes, Wheel Bearings, Steering Knuckles, Driveshaft, Power steering.
Of course the muffler bearings take a special additive to keep them working properly as does your headlight reservoirs. I hear the juice in those is especially pricey.
Of course if you can't find any of these in your factory manual (should be conveniently located in your glove box) then give me a request for what ever you need filled and I will be happy to oblige.
- Thread starter
- #6
Do you think Mobil 1 is worth the bling bling? From what I have read if one has a small amount of sepage (which I believe I do) that a total synthetic oil is not a great idea since it would sep more. Is that true. Also, where can one buy oil wholesale or at a discounted price?
[quote author=moralien link=board=2;threadid=6181;start=msg49700#msg49700 date=1065826341]
Of course the muffler bearings take a special additive to keep them working properly as does your headlight reservoirs. I hear the juice in those is especially pricey.
[/quote]
Muffler bearings & headlight reservoirs ??? ??? ??? What are these ?
Frank (clueless)
Of course the muffler bearings take a special additive to keep them working properly as does your headlight reservoirs. I hear the juice in those is especially pricey.
[/quote]
Muffler bearings & headlight reservoirs ??? ??? ??? What are these ?
Frank (clueless)
Frank,
He's just jerkin the guy. But, make sure you change the old air out of your tires every 3000 miles.
Bill
He's just jerkin the guy. But, make sure you change the old air out of your tires every 3000 miles.
Bill
Beowulf
Bill,
I used to drain and refill every 3k but the CO2 allows for extended change intervals. I'm now changing the air in the tyres around 7,000 miles.
Still lube the muffler bearings every 3k though...
-B-
I used to drain and refill every 3k but the CO2 allows for extended change intervals. I'm now changing the air in the tyres around 7,000 miles.
Still lube the muffler bearings every 3k though...
-B-
-B-,
Pretty ingenious with the CO2. I myself have switched to synthetic air and am getting better mileage. Only trouble is the synthetic seems to leak a little more.
Bill
Pretty ingenious with the CO2. I myself have switched to synthetic air and am getting better mileage. Only trouble is the synthetic seems to leak a little more.
Bill
Jonathan_Ferguson
★ is in the wrong locale
- Joined
- Jul 2, 2003
- Messages
- 950
- Location
- Glen Waverley, Victoria, Australia
- Website
- Jonathan-Ferguson.tk
Australian FZJ80R Oil
Engine
Petrol(1FZ-FE)
20W/50 -7 -> 38
15W/40 -12.5 -> 38
10W/30 -18 -> 38
5W/30 -29 -> 10
 iesel(1HZ 1HD-FT)
20W/50 -7 -> 38
15W/40 -12.5 -> 38
10W/30 -18 -> 38
5W/30 -29 -> 10
SAE40 10 -> 38
SAE30 4 -> 38
SAE20 -12.5 -> 16
Gearbox
Manual
GL-4 or GL-5 75W/90
Transfercase
GL-4 or GL-5 75W/90
Differential
Front
SAE90 Above -18
SAE80 Below -18
80W/90 Below -18
Rear
LS90
Engine
Petrol(1FZ-FE)
20W/50 -7 -> 38
15W/40 -12.5 -> 38
10W/30 -18 -> 38
5W/30 -29 -> 10
 
iesel(1HZ 1HD-FT)20W/50 -7 -> 38
15W/40 -12.5 -> 38
10W/30 -18 -> 38
5W/30 -29 -> 10
SAE40 10 -> 38
SAE30 4 -> 38
SAE20 -12.5 -> 16
Gearbox
Manual
GL-4 or GL-5 75W/90
Transfercase
GL-4 or GL-5 75W/90
Differential
Front
SAE90 Above -18
SAE80 Below -18
80W/90 Below -18
Rear
LS90
moralien
[quote author=colo_tlc link=board=2;threadid=6181;start=msg49728#msg49728 date=1065834590]
Do you think Mobil 1 is worth the bling bling? From what I have read if one has a small amount of sepage (which I believe I do) that a total synthetic oil is not a great idea since it would sep more. Is that true. Also, where can one buy oil wholesale or at a discounted price?
[/quote]
Culo TLC
This has been hashed over a million times but in short, run whatever you want. If you have a leak the synthetic will find it. If you know that your rear and front main seals are intact and not leaking and you don't make any driveway spots go for it. IMHO if it were my rig I would run a quality synthetic, ( Mobil 1 is not) like Royal purple or Redline. Do this and you could go 8 to 10,000 miles between oil changes. And you kinda have to, to recoup your costs. If you change your filter out halfway there are no worries.
As far as wholesale goes you could pony up and buy 50 gallons and get a discount or try your local Costco, Sams, etc....
Do you think Mobil 1 is worth the bling bling? From what I have read if one has a small amount of sepage (which I believe I do) that a total synthetic oil is not a great idea since it would sep more. Is that true. Also, where can one buy oil wholesale or at a discounted price?
[/quote]
Culo TLC
This has been hashed over a million times but in short, run whatever you want. If you have a leak the synthetic will find it. If you know that your rear and front main seals are intact and not leaking and you don't make any driveway spots go for it. IMHO if it were my rig I would run a quality synthetic, ( Mobil 1 is not) like Royal purple or Redline. Do this and you could go 8 to 10,000 miles between oil changes. And you kinda have to, to recoup your costs. If you change your filter out halfway there are no worries.
As far as wholesale goes you could pony up and buy 50 gallons and get a discount or try your local Costco, Sams, etc....
fj40crusher
Greasing my hubcap gaskets tomorrow, every 3k -like clockwork.
Jonathon,
Nice list. The rear diff on FZJ's doesn't spec limited slip fluid, however. I've always used 75w-90 in the diffs/TC year round - any worries with that?
IdahoDoug
Nice list. The rear diff on FZJ's doesn't spec limited slip fluid, however. I've always used 75w-90 in the diffs/TC year round - any worries with that?
IdahoDoug
cruiserdan
SupportingVendor Emeritus
Moderator
The Wulf spun a muffler bearing just the other day.
Jonathan_Ferguson
★ is in the wrong locale
- Joined
- Jul 2, 2003
- Messages
- 950
- Location
- Glen Waverley, Victoria, Australia
- Website
- Jonathan-Ferguson.tk
That is becouse I made the list for Dad, As his FZJ80 has the original Friction Plate L.S.D. in the rear. If you don't have the L.S.D., It's the same as the front.
[quote author=moralien link=board=2;threadid=6181;start=msg49802#msg49802 date=1065848863]
Culo TLC
This has been hashed over a million times but in short, run whatever you want. If you have a leak the synthetic will find it. If you know that your rear and front main seals are intact and not leaking and you don't make any driveway spots go for it. IMHO if it were my rig I would run a quality synthetic, ( Mobil 1 is not) like Royal purple or Redline. Do this and you could go 8 to 10,000 miles between oil changes. And you kinda have to, to recoup your costs. If you change your filter out halfway there are no worries.
[/quote]
Sorry but you are so wrong on a couple of your points it is not even funny. First, could you please explain why Mobil 1 is not a quality synthetic, when it has in fact posted consistantly the best UOA's. Do you know that most Royal Purple oil is not a sythetic, but in fact standard Group II oils with a "synthetic carrier pack". Third, your idea of changing the filter is nice, but not necessarly correct. There are many other factors to worry about besides the oil's insolubles, such as oxidation, conatamination, fuel levels rising, coolant leaks. Finally, synthetic does not "find" leaks and will not leak any more or less than a mineral oil.
Please do not make comments like you did, that are nothing more than unfounded opinions. This board is nice because people post information that is usually very accurate.
Cary
Culo TLC
This has been hashed over a million times but in short, run whatever you want. If you have a leak the synthetic will find it. If you know that your rear and front main seals are intact and not leaking and you don't make any driveway spots go for it. IMHO if it were my rig I would run a quality synthetic, ( Mobil 1 is not) like Royal purple or Redline. Do this and you could go 8 to 10,000 miles between oil changes. And you kinda have to, to recoup your costs. If you change your filter out halfway there are no worries.
[/quote]
Sorry but you are so wrong on a couple of your points it is not even funny. First, could you please explain why Mobil 1 is not a quality synthetic, when it has in fact posted consistantly the best UOA's. Do you know that most Royal Purple oil is not a sythetic, but in fact standard Group II oils with a "synthetic carrier pack". Third, your idea of changing the filter is nice, but not necessarly correct. There are many other factors to worry about besides the oil's insolubles, such as oxidation, conatamination, fuel levels rising, coolant leaks. Finally, synthetic does not "find" leaks and will not leak any more or less than a mineral oil.
Please do not make comments like you did, that are nothing more than unfounded opinions. This board is nice because people post information that is usually very accurate.
Cary
i know when synthetics were first introduced, there was a problem with older seals being made more brittle by the synthetic, hence more noticable leakage, and i believe newer synthetics have an additive to limit this.
moralien
[quote author=cary link=board=2;threadid=6181;start=msg50013#msg50013 date=1065970455]
Sorry but you are so wrong on a couple of your points it is not even funny. First, could you please explain why Mobil 1 is not a quality synthetic, when it has in fact posted consistantly the best UOA's. Do you know that most Royal Purple oil is not a sythetic, but in fact standard Group II oils with a "synthetic carrier pack". Third, your idea of changing the filter is nice, but not necessarly correct. There are many other factors to worry about besides the oil's insolubles, such as oxidation, conatamination, fuel levels rising, coolant leaks. Finally, synthetic does not "find" leaks and will not leak any more or less than a mineral oil.
Please do not make comments like you did, that are nothing more than unfounded opinions. This board is nice because people post information that is usually very accurate.
Cary
[/quote]
Cary, judging by the personal stance you took on my reply you’re either a sales rep for Mobil or you just don't like me. Whatever the case I could care less. Now if I could just make a few generalizations. As far as Mobil 1 being a full syn I'm not really sure. But if you could enlighten us on the complete make up of the oil that would be great. I would think a company founded on dino would hesitate to synthesize oil completely devoid of the dead stuff. Again as far Royal purple being a standard group II with the poly additives I have heard the same of Mobil 1. As far as me telling Colo to just change out the filter halfway I still think that's good advice. If he has a preexisting particulate problem the synth is not going to escalate what is already there. I did not tell him to put a synthetic in and forget about it for the next 20 thousand miles. And to move on to the seepage issue. I was merely trying to discourage him from jumping into it. If you read his post he basically says he has a leak. What's more costly? Fixing a rear main, leaving dino in and topping of every couple of months at a cost of 2 bucks, or running syn and having to top off at the same interval at 3 times the cost of dino? If you are so concerned with colo's engine health maybe you would be willing to buy him a few oil analysis’s from Blackstone labs...
And I agree with you in the fact that most people on this board are nice. However this is the internet so everything should be taken with a grain of salt including this one. Because last time I checked this was not the official Toyota master tech portion of IH8mud.
Again all above is mere unsubstantiated opinion. However I wait in anticipation for your timely response in pure empirical truth.
Nick
Sorry but you are so wrong on a couple of your points it is not even funny. First, could you please explain why Mobil 1 is not a quality synthetic, when it has in fact posted consistantly the best UOA's. Do you know that most Royal Purple oil is not a sythetic, but in fact standard Group II oils with a "synthetic carrier pack". Third, your idea of changing the filter is nice, but not necessarly correct. There are many other factors to worry about besides the oil's insolubles, such as oxidation, conatamination, fuel levels rising, coolant leaks. Finally, synthetic does not "find" leaks and will not leak any more or less than a mineral oil.
Please do not make comments like you did, that are nothing more than unfounded opinions. This board is nice because people post information that is usually very accurate.
Cary
[/quote]
Cary, judging by the personal stance you took on my reply you’re either a sales rep for Mobil or you just don't like me. Whatever the case I could care less. Now if I could just make a few generalizations. As far as Mobil 1 being a full syn I'm not really sure. But if you could enlighten us on the complete make up of the oil that would be great. I would think a company founded on dino would hesitate to synthesize oil completely devoid of the dead stuff. Again as far Royal purple being a standard group II with the poly additives I have heard the same of Mobil 1. As far as me telling Colo to just change out the filter halfway I still think that's good advice. If he has a preexisting particulate problem the synth is not going to escalate what is already there. I did not tell him to put a synthetic in and forget about it for the next 20 thousand miles. And to move on to the seepage issue. I was merely trying to discourage him from jumping into it. If you read his post he basically says he has a leak. What's more costly? Fixing a rear main, leaving dino in and topping of every couple of months at a cost of 2 bucks, or running syn and having to top off at the same interval at 3 times the cost of dino? If you are so concerned with colo's engine health maybe you would be willing to buy him a few oil analysis’s from Blackstone labs...
And I agree with you in the fact that most people on this board are nice. However this is the internet so everything should be taken with a grain of salt including this one. Because last time I checked this was not the official Toyota master tech portion of IH8mud.
Again all above is mere unsubstantiated opinion. However I wait in anticipation for your timely response in pure empirical truth.
Nick
Nick,
As you well know, the "complete" makeup of an oil is proprietary. It is well documented that Mobil 1 is a Group IV POA, below is the language from Mobil 1's site so you can read it with your own eyes (or are you now going to say that Mobil is fasely adverstiseing their product).
"All motor oils are made up of base oils and additives. In general, fully synthetic motor oils contain non-conventional, high-performance fluids, such as polyalphaolefins (PAOs). Semi-synthetic oils (also called "blends") usually use a small percentage of non-conventional, high-performance fluids in combination with conventional oil.
To meet the demanding requirements of today's specifications (and our customers' expectations), Mobil 1® uses high-performance fluids, including polyalphaolefins (PAOs), along with a proprietary system of additives. Each Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ viscosity grade uses a unique combination of synthetic fluids and selected additives in order to tailor the viscosity grade to its specific application."
Now concerning Royal Purple, I cannot find on their website anymore where they state that in their API approved oils they use a blend of Mineral, Synthetic and Synerloc. Perhaps they have changed their formula or website since I last looked.
Concerning the filter change you stated "you can run the oil 8000-10,000 miles and change the filter halfway through and have no worries." I pointed out there are many factors besides the filter that could effect the oil on longer intervals. No you didn't recommend going to 20,000 miles, but even 10,000 is pushing it on a vehicle driven in cold weather, short trips, etc..
Finally, you make the lame assertion that I am a "mobil rep or I just don't like you." Before I didn't care and was trying to help in getting accurate information, now you have confirmed you are a
. As far as me a mobil rep, sorry, I don't do sales. But since you bring it up, you wouldn't happen to sell Royal Purple, would you?
Cary
As you well know, the "complete" makeup of an oil is proprietary. It is well documented that Mobil 1 is a Group IV POA, below is the language from Mobil 1's site so you can read it with your own eyes (or are you now going to say that Mobil is fasely adverstiseing their product).
"All motor oils are made up of base oils and additives. In general, fully synthetic motor oils contain non-conventional, high-performance fluids, such as polyalphaolefins (PAOs). Semi-synthetic oils (also called "blends") usually use a small percentage of non-conventional, high-performance fluids in combination with conventional oil.
To meet the demanding requirements of today's specifications (and our customers' expectations), Mobil 1® uses high-performance fluids, including polyalphaolefins (PAOs), along with a proprietary system of additives. Each Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ viscosity grade uses a unique combination of synthetic fluids and selected additives in order to tailor the viscosity grade to its specific application."
Now concerning Royal Purple, I cannot find on their website anymore where they state that in their API approved oils they use a blend of Mineral, Synthetic and Synerloc. Perhaps they have changed their formula or website since I last looked.
Concerning the filter change you stated "you can run the oil 8000-10,000 miles and change the filter halfway through and have no worries." I pointed out there are many factors besides the filter that could effect the oil on longer intervals. No you didn't recommend going to 20,000 miles, but even 10,000 is pushing it on a vehicle driven in cold weather, short trips, etc..
Finally, you make the lame assertion that I am a "mobil rep or I just don't like you." Before I didn't care and was trying to help in getting accurate information, now you have confirmed you are a
. As far as me a mobil rep, sorry, I don't do sales. But since you bring it up, you wouldn't happen to sell Royal Purple, would you?Cary
