Cold weather whoas.... (1 Viewer)

[gregnash]

Question for everyone....
Weather has been stupid cold here as of late, late winter finally hitting us with feet of snow still sticking around at 4500' and lots and lots up in the Tahoe Basin. This means that we have been getting some seriously cold nights (for us) which dip down into the teens and single digits. When we get said nights, it is usually after we have had a short burst of snow or rain which causes issues with my door lock mechanisms.

First problem...
Door opens but when I go to close the door the latch mechanism is froze/stuck OPEN. So door will not close. I have been able to get around this by locking the door, closing it while inside a few times and eventually the mechanism will "catch". However, What do I need to grease, lube or whatever to get it so that the cold does not affect at least the latching mechanism as badly?

Second problem...(and probably for @RAGINGMATT)
Ignition cylinder is super slow and hard to turn. My assumption is that whatever grease is in the cylinder is old and in the cold coagulates. This causes a SERIOUSLY hard turn over the first time or two turning then it loosens up. What can I do to the cylinder to allow for smoother turns when this cold?

Third problem.....
Drivers door likes to stick shut on mornings like this, ESPECIALLY after it has rained or we have had really wet, heavy snow. I know that my door seals need to be replaced but want to wait until things warm up so I don't inadvertently destroy my new seals. Is there something I can spray or rub on the door seals to help prevent this freezing?

Fourth problem....(and probably for @FJ40Jim)
Freezing morning starts?! On mornings like this morning where it was all of 9* the truck takes a lot of pumps to turn over finally, even with the choke pulled. For those of you that live in areas that see cold like this constantly/consistently how do you get around such hard "cold" starts?? For instance, this morning I got in the truck, pulled choke, pumped pedal 7 times, gave it a good 15 seconds before I tried to turn her over. Nothing, repeated the process, Nothing. Repeat again, and she tires to fire over but nothing. This time 3 pumps of the pedal, wait only a couple seconds and turn and she will finally turn over and fire up though even with choke pulled idle is MAYBE 1k rpm. When the temp is above about 25* this is not really a problem or will take significantly less pumps/tries. Any recommendations? Most winters are not normally this cold for this long but starting to wonder if I should install an engine warmer at some point to help when temps do drop like this. Usually we will have a week, maybe two, that are cold down into the single digits, low doubles but this has been going on weeks of snow storms and cold temps down at this elevation which seems to happen once every 5 or so years (this is the second instance since 2016).

 

[mattressking]

Don't have time as I am stepping out of office to help with all of them but really quick for the door seals use either aerospace 303 OR Gummi Pflege. Gummi Pflege is best option but usually an online order unless you want to pay BMW's over the counter price. Aerospace 303 usually can be had at Ace Hardware.

 

[John McVicker]

Your 1st & 2nd problem...and this is just a MAYBE, as it’s not quite that cold here, but this might help both problems:
KROIL or maybe some Ed’s Red (gun bore cleaner) in the mechanism of the ignition & your door locks.

I use both products as a PM for these issues. Haven’t had to solve the problem ‘after the fact’, but I would think it would help. Would not recommend WD40 for these issues.

I just returned from Carson City yesterday, should have put chains on, but made it home w/o doing so.

 

[Willard]

Back in Canada, in the locks I use to use graphite. Seems to help.
For the cold starts, cannot help much, I have had to use ether at times, but it is real bad for an engine.

For the door seals maybe electronic grade silicone grease. Should be safe.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

You had your carb rebuilt by Jim recently right?
Are you priming the carb prior to start like Oss has explained in many threads?
This cold start thing is a common issue, it seems, for you. I can’t remember if your smogged or desmogged. If you are, you kept the heat riser, correct?

Do you know anyone who could loan you a City Racer?
It gets that cold here for sure but I’ve not bothered to drive when it has so I can’t say much. But I will say I have very little trouble starting my truck in 16 degrees which it was last weekend when I went to work.

 

[cps432]

My truck does that too on cold mornings here in Colorado. The more cold it is the more difficult it is to start. One morning I thought the crank and cam shafts had actually frozen themselves in place. It was not a happy camper starting up at -9 degrees. I thought a new starter and beefier ground might help get things turning when it’s bitterly cold like that. I haven’t looked too far into fixes and work arounds because she’s never let me down and always starts up after a moment. If I don’t let the engine warm up for a while it will stumble and die until I get it up into 3rd gear. The past few weeks it will start and run for a second and then shut off. But always starts strong immediately after that.

 

[FJACS]

Woe.

My ‘83 has problem #2. I sprayed the cylinder with a few different lubricants. I think the problem is actually in the switch behind the cylinder.

 

[SteveH]

My '87 FJ60 required a lot of pedal pumps on very cold days. The accelerator pump was putting plenty of gas down the carb throat, too - so I just chalked it up to the nature of the beast. I used to pump it about 12 times - just crank and pump until it fires. I later installed a block heater, which when run for 4 hours, produced magical results.

You can use any silicone spray on the door gaskets. Saturate a cloth with it, and wipe each gasket until it's wet with silicone.

I can't explain the door lock freezing 'open' such that the door won't close. A good hosing with a white lithium (aerosol) grease could help, but maybe it's seriously gunked up inside and needs a cleaning.

RE: the lock cylinder - If I were you, I would remove the entire lock cylinder (per the FSM - not too hard), and soak it in a chlorinated solvent, or disassemble and hose down with brake cleaner. When it's fully clean, lightly lube it with graphite or moly sulfide powder and then remember never to use a liquid lube on the lock (since you don't mix liquid and powdered lubes).

 

[SteveH]

I hope every FJ60 owner remembers the way to get your truck and transmission to heat up faster on cold day. Apply the parking brake, put the transfer case in neutral and then shift the transmission in 3rd (or a gear of your choice), and let out the clutch.

This puts a decent load on the engine due to the transmission drag, causing it to heat up, and it stirs up and heats the transmission oil, which is thick on a cold day. YMMV, but this always helps my manual transmission vehicles on the coldest days.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Question for everyone....
Weather has been stupid cold here as of late, late winter finally hitting us with feet of snow still sticking around at 4500' and lots and lots up in the Tahoe Basin. This means that we have been getting some seriously cold nights (for us) which dip down into the teens and single digits. When we get said nights, it is usually after we have had a short burst of snow or rain which causes issues with my door lock mechanisms.

First problem...
Door opens but when I go to close the door the latch mechanism is froze/stuck OPEN. So door will not close. I have been able to get around this by locking the door, closing it while inside a few times and eventually the mechanism will "catch". However, What do I need to grease, lube or whatever to get it so that the cold does not affect at least the latching mechanism as badly?

Second problem...(and probably for @RAGINGMATT)
Ignition cylinder is super slow and hard to turn. My assumption is that whatever grease is in the cylinder is old and in the cold coagulates. This causes a SERIOUSLY hard turn over the first time or two turning then it loosens up. What can I do to the cylinder to allow for smoother turns when this cold?

Third problem.....
Drivers door likes to stick shut on mornings like this, ESPECIALLY after it has rained or we have had really wet, heavy snow. I know that my door seals need to be replaced but want to wait until things warm up so I don't inadvertently destroy my new seals. Is there something I can spray or rub on the door seals to help prevent this freezing?

Fourth problem....(and probably for @FJ40Jim)
Freezing morning starts?! On mornings like this morning where it was all of 9* the truck takes a lot of pumps to turn over finally, even with the choke pulled. For those of you that live in areas that see cold like this constantly/consistently how do you get around such hard "cold" starts?? For instance, this morning I got in the truck, pulled choke, pumped pedal 7 times, gave it a good 15 seconds before I tried to turn her over. Nothing, repeated the process, Nothing. Repeat again, and she tires to fire over but nothing. This time 3 pumps of the pedal, wait only a couple seconds and turn and she will finally turn over and fire up though even with choke pulled idle is MAYBE 1k rpm. When the temp is above about 25* this is not really a problem or will take significantly less pumps/tries. Any recommendations? Most winters are not normally this cold for this long but starting to wonder if I should install an engine warmer at some point to help when temps do drop like this. Usually we will have a week, maybe two, that are cold down into the single digits, low doubles but this has been going on weeks of snow storms and cold temps down at this elevation which seems to happen once every 5 or so years (this is the second instance since 2016).

Second problem...(and probably for @RAGINGMATT)

Ignition cylinder is super slow and hard to turn. My assumption is that whatever grease is in the cylinder is old and in the cold coagulates. Most Likley , but u also certinaly have NON-Feris Metal Fillings mixed in too , Brass , & Magnesium that makes a fine powder soup

This causes a SERIOUSLY hard turn over the first time or two turning then it loosens up. What can I do to the cylinder to allow for smoother turns when this cold?

Buy this product , spray it in the key hole and the put the key in an out in and out real fast , wiping the key shaft off each time Too ........

this well loosen up and the Rubbish & break down the petroleum products at the same time

its Isopropal Alcohol , and a odorless butane Propellant


basicly Lock-Deicer On Steroids

 

[Prairie Swamp]

In my experience after 30 some years - door locks, door latches, release mechanisms, ignition cylinders, window regulators etc the only proper fix is to take it apart and clean it. Fix in a can might make it better for a bit but ultimately just collects more stuff. I recommend the dry graphite dust for locks as it won't collect more dirt. Really seems to help for awhile.

The difference though after completely cleaning 30 years of dirt, corrosion and old lubricants off is amazing.

 

[KWalkerM]

Block heater for cold days plugged into the neighbors wall outlet.

Seriously, Throw a block heater on the motor and it will be nice and toasty when you fire it up and not have to cold start. I used to have one on Bessie and I am thinking of throwing one on the new trucks since its been super cold in my neck of the woods lately.

 

[Prairie Swamp]

Block heaters are great - but unless you can plug in at the restaurant or at work you may find yourself stuck. The vehicle needs to be able to start in any conditions you find yourself. Take it from someone who's DD is a 33 year old diesel Mercedes.

 

[gregnash]

Thanks for all the feedback everyone...
So to answer a few questions

• Yes truck is desmogged with JimC rebuilt carb. I have kept HAC and Heat Riser (No Header) due to altitude I am at (4500')
• I have cleaned the ignition cylinder before with some carb cleaner but maybe that did not do the job as well as the electrical contact cleaner. Especially now that I have a new ignition key (thanks to @RAGINGMATT )
• Block heater would be an awesome option and where I park my truck in the driveway I have a 110v plug no more than 10' away. Will have to do some research on those to see what option I have. No need for this at work or anything as I usually run home for my lunch so the truck gets started and driven 4hrs into my shift.

With the cold start issue, I believe I am doing the @OSS method by letting the gas atomize after pumping a few times. Really it just bowls down to how cold she is. This is only prevalent at night when she has been sitting for 8+ hours and the temps drop down below 20*. Really it if is not those two factors she fires up either on the first try or pretty much right away.

 

[doug720]

On they locks - besides whatever lube and debris issues, many times the key itself is worn. The worn key does not fully engage the pins, making the parts drag. This is worse when any lube is cold and stiff.

If you don't have have a good copy, there are options. They key code is stamped on the passenger side door lock. If I recall, a new key can be cut from that. But a good lock smith can take a worn key and make a nice new full cut key from it.

Worth a quick check.

On the doors seals. Silicone or 303 works well.

I have a block heater in my 60, and use a timer so it only runs for an hour or so before I want to drive it. Saves $$$$'s.

Cold and carbs are what they are, especially when it's single digits. My '77 Ford F250 truck in Gardnerville can be tricky too. Pump a couple of times for fuel, and no throttle, but it has electronic choke.

Spring is coming...Sometime...Maybe...I hope!

Last week at our house - Lots of snow and 9 degree's!

 

[Michael Hanson]

Hi, Check the ohms on the cold start injector and ,cold start timer. Mike

 

[Michael Hanson]

Hi, Sorry just saw this was an 87.

 

[gregnash]

@doug720 yeah the key is actually only about a year old. Had @RAGINGMATT rekey the drivers side door lock and then make a couple new keys for me based off the key code. So key is not the issue, other than it leaving shavings behind.

And glad to see that you finally purchased a place out here. Last we had talked you guys had run into some issues with one that you were looking at. Never heard back and honestly forgot. Let me know when you are around as I still owe you a beer and would love another cruiser head to chat with.

 

[doug720]

Life has a way of changing best laid plans sometimes...

Beer sounds great, I'll let you know.

 

[OSS]

For cold starting- I REALLY noticed a BIG difference using a 850 CCA AGM battery for the starting battery. It was like night & day compared to any wet cell battery I had used in the past. The starter would jump to life and crank the engine much faster than any wet cell I had used. Engine would always start much faster and not fudder around once it caught. The feeling was really noticeable. Not only would all those juicy Amps from the AGM dump into the starter, they'd give the coil everything it needed. It seemed that the ignition was stronger at start up too. It was fun starting the old 2F with an AGM. Vroom!