Cold weather has the 40 frozen in the garage (1 Viewer)

[Pighead]

Tries to start, won't, got a couple backfires

Then I'd check timing. Visually and static.

 

[JohnnyC]

You said the plugs are fouled... Are they wet with gas ? Or a dry fouled?

 

[77 Mike]

Somewhat relevant question to the cruiser experts out there: Do you get more gas to the engine by pumping the gas pedal as you crank the engine, or would you get more if you kept the gas pedal all the way down?

 

[bikersmurf]

Pumping will give you the most.

If you've flooded it, cranking it wide open will help restore air fuel balance.

 

[Howard705]

Make sure it's cranking reasonably fast-if not leave charger/jumper on. Pull all plugs-so easy on these-crank-fuel spits out cyls is flooded-if plugs not reasonably clean-replace OR-I put on bench and heat electrodes HOT with torch-burns off all residue as it would in running engine under load. check for big blue spark that'll jump a long way. Plugs in pump it few times. should fire no choke for a few seconds-continue pumps will stay running. One of mine (77) starts at all night out at -25 f with GOOD battery in it. Been running 79 DD at -10 -15 f in the AM. Sure doesn't like it tho...

 

[shelfboy1]

did you check the plug gap they get wider with mileage and get to wide for the truck to start.the flapper just routes hot gas to the carb after it starts and probably wont make a difference in the initial start and the carb rebuilt this summer shouldnt be ruled out .old plug wires and a bunch of small things can make big problems .

 

[1973Guppie]

spark, air, fuel, compression. Make sure you are getting all of these. I would check the spark for sure. 45 degrees is not cold. You can get one of those little spark plug testers from harbor freight to check if you are getting spark at the plugs. As others have stated, check to see fuel spray down the car during pedal use. Post up if you are getting spark / fuel or not.

 

[1973Guppie]

Then I'd check timing. Visually and static.

agree, means it is possibly firing but not at the right time......

 

[Pighead]

You can get one of those little spark plug testers from harbor freight to check if you are getting spark at the plugs.

Or just put your timing light on each of the plug wires and stare down the barrel of the gun while you crank the engine...

 

[tubalubb]

Well a semi-update. It was way colder than 45 to begin with. The first day was teens and I never started it. The second in 20s I tried no luck. Third I started thread and guestimated 45. Waited until now prob an ambient 60 or so and good (too good in this enclosed garage) ether and no dice. Batt is good and also when checked on starting amps. Carb was rebuilt by
a well qualified expert so I feel pretty confident that part is ok. Def have some leaks. Just pulled plugs (plugs/wires new in Aug.) 1&2 dry 3-6 wet w carbon all were cleaned yesterday. Did check gaps on install, will again now. Will also check spark and get back with results in an hour or so.
Really appreciate all. Wish I'd torn motor down when i did everything else.

 

[sggoat]

Those plugs look pretty sparkly to me---no reason why no crank here

 

[JohnnyC]

Those do not look bad ...

Start with basics for us

1) are you getting gas?
2) are you getting spark?

Is there fuel in the carb window?

 

[tubalubb]

Ok here is an update. Checked gaps and they are still at 32. Let them all soak in bpc last night. Tested each today on all the wires. Yellow spark all around (except for the one I didn't get all of the bpc off, holy smokes!) spark quality was the same even with testing (but not checking gap) on one random new plug I had also with batt charger connected at 2,12&75 not much difference in color. Fuel in window is just above the bottom part of the body if you think of it's shape like a bat if that makes sense. That is without pushing accelerator at all and sitting overnight. I didn't want to flood further without checking other stuff. I'm taking battery to get load tested now just to be sure. It's a red optima less than year old.
I'll report back on that.

 

[91 4runner]

Fuel should be in the middle of the window, low 40* should not be any problem for your cruiser I 2 pumps of fuel and full choke starts my 40 even when it's 9* out

 

[tubalubb]

Re-gapped plugs, changed terminals to gold covered and confirmed battery just in case I was wrong.





I'm going to reinsert plugs and connect wires and try again. I'll see where the level is when I do the two pumps.

 

[tubalubb]

Ok no dice, even with brake cleaner on plugs. So I removed cap. This is where the rotor points when the needle is inline with the line on the flywheel, right at #4. Would you change this? I havent removed the carb for a clean yet because I don't have any extra gaskets and wanted to eliminate everything else but unless this timing setting is bad I think that is the next step.





As for vac tubes. My recollection is I tried to do the minimum I could and tried to follow pinheads advice from an earlier thread. I know there are mistakes so for reference here they are. I'll label them by letter


First is A: cap to air cleaner



B: both are capped off




C was a WAG, talking about red hose




D is photo of items already existing or not capped by me




E



F




G







H





I





Vacuum lines were the most challenging thing for me to get, the diagrams all looked like spaghetti. I tried to follow the simplest route. I'm going to resmog in the future.

Any thoughts before I remove the carb? Thanks again.

 

[kruisinkid]

-pictured are 3 places that you have a vac leak. fix those.
-are you totally sure your carb is tuned properly?
-did you cap the ports on the valve cover side of the carb that go to the dizzy?
-take 10 minutes and $4 and replace your fuel filter
-post a pic of the carb fuel window after cranking for 5 full seconds, NOT PUMPING THE GAS PEDAL

 

[kruisinkid]

and is it me or is your idle solenoid plug disconnected??!!!

 

[DougAustinTx]

Yellow is not a really good color for your spark. I like a bluish color, and my 40 will shoot a spark over an inch to ground with the stock coil and ignitor. When yours will do close to that, you can Eliminate spark quality as your problem.
I don't think your manifold leaks are the primary problem. After all this work you've done, what are your compression figures at cranking speed (carb butterfly open)? If compression isn't good at cranking, starting will always be a problem.

 

[91 4runner]

Ya that does look disconnected, explaines the hard starting lol


( edit )

It looks like there is a wire in that plug, to the OP be sure you here the " click" of the solenoid to rule it out