Hi folks! It’s been a while since I last posted on this forum.... still drive the same ’91 FJ80, but no longer do it on the US roads. Due to family reasons had to move back to my home country – Ukraine. And I took my rig with me. Have been driving it here ever since – for about 6 years. It has been an awesome vehicle for the local conditions.
Couple of years ago I removed EGR and installed an LPG thingy to cut down on fuel costs. Had been running like a champ until recently. Well, it still drives great, but only if I am able to start it. J
I am having hard time starting it cold, especially since temps dropped to low to mid 20s (F) I have to crank it for 17-25 uninterrupted seconds before it starts. If I break cranking short, i.e. before it catches, I have to start the entire cycle all over. Sometime it appears to catch , but if I release the key, it dies. Once started, it runs great, though. Also, no problem starting it when it is hot/warm. It starts on gasoline, as the LPG kicks in only after it reaches operational temperature.
Last summer I had a competent mechanic do valves seal replacement and fine-tune the ignition timing. Also replaced plugs, dizzy cap, spark plugs and alternator belt. They also checked and removed the cold start injector as it was shot. Ever since that valve job and CSI removal, it has had some minor issues with cold starting even when it was in 70s and 80s – it would never start with only one crank, always had to do 2, sometimes even 3 1-3 second cranks, but it was acceptable. Then, the colder weather arrived and the troubles began.
I took it to the same mechanic and he has investigated it pretty thoroughly. I also read through the old threads here. Ruled out fuel delivery and MAF. In the process replaced fuel pump with a new Denso unit, and put in new fluid temp sensor; also cleaned fuel filter. (will have to replace it later) . FPR checked out OK. There appears to be no air/vacuum leaks.
Now,.. electrical so far checked out ok, mostly... The CEL light comes on before I turn the ignition key, spark is there, distributor cap and coil are not melted (hello jonheld! ) Now, I have yet to replace the wires, but it appears not to be the culprit as the spark is there indeed and he tagged and seated wire boots many times to make sure the contact is there. I have new wires on the way from Amazon, though.
The only thing that may give an indication of possible electrical trouble is the fact that when the mechanic sprays ether (it is used here as a starting fluid) into the manifold, the engine does not run smooth for 10-15 seconds as I gather it is supposed to, but runs sputtering and then dies. Now, it might be because the ether is not the best chemical for this purpose, or …
Asking you guys for ideas . Another big question – can the absence of CSI have such a huge impact that the good old 3Fe has to be cranked uninterruptedly for at least 17 seconds before it catches. I mean, there are millions of other cars and trucks that start every time even on the coldest mornings. Hell, I had 91 Toyota Cressida (3 liter 6 inline engine) that would start every time after 2-3 seconds crank during cold winter mornings in Berkshire mountains when it was only around 0(F).
…would appreciate your input guys.
Couple of years ago I removed EGR and installed an LPG thingy to cut down on fuel costs. Had been running like a champ until recently. Well, it still drives great, but only if I am able to start it. J
I am having hard time starting it cold, especially since temps dropped to low to mid 20s (F) I have to crank it for 17-25 uninterrupted seconds before it starts. If I break cranking short, i.e. before it catches, I have to start the entire cycle all over. Sometime it appears to catch , but if I release the key, it dies. Once started, it runs great, though. Also, no problem starting it when it is hot/warm. It starts on gasoline, as the LPG kicks in only after it reaches operational temperature.
Last summer I had a competent mechanic do valves seal replacement and fine-tune the ignition timing. Also replaced plugs, dizzy cap, spark plugs and alternator belt. They also checked and removed the cold start injector as it was shot. Ever since that valve job and CSI removal, it has had some minor issues with cold starting even when it was in 70s and 80s – it would never start with only one crank, always had to do 2, sometimes even 3 1-3 second cranks, but it was acceptable. Then, the colder weather arrived and the troubles began.
I took it to the same mechanic and he has investigated it pretty thoroughly. I also read through the old threads here. Ruled out fuel delivery and MAF. In the process replaced fuel pump with a new Denso unit, and put in new fluid temp sensor; also cleaned fuel filter. (will have to replace it later) . FPR checked out OK. There appears to be no air/vacuum leaks.
Now,.. electrical so far checked out ok, mostly... The CEL light comes on before I turn the ignition key, spark is there, distributor cap and coil are not melted (hello jonheld! ) Now, I have yet to replace the wires, but it appears not to be the culprit as the spark is there indeed and he tagged and seated wire boots many times to make sure the contact is there. I have new wires on the way from Amazon, though.
The only thing that may give an indication of possible electrical trouble is the fact that when the mechanic sprays ether (it is used here as a starting fluid) into the manifold, the engine does not run smooth for 10-15 seconds as I gather it is supposed to, but runs sputtering and then dies. Now, it might be because the ether is not the best chemical for this purpose, or …
Asking you guys for ideas . Another big question – can the absence of CSI have such a huge impact that the good old 3Fe has to be cranked uninterruptedly for at least 17 seconds before it catches. I mean, there are millions of other cars and trucks that start every time even on the coldest mornings. Hell, I had 91 Toyota Cressida (3 liter 6 inline engine) that would start every time after 2-3 seconds crank during cold winter mornings in Berkshire mountains when it was only around 0(F).
…would appreciate your input guys.
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