Cold Start Issue (1 Viewer)

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One more question, did you have any issues BEFORE cleaning the MAF?
 
Guys does a car still run fine even with a bad maf sensor or there are always symptoms like idle etc.Had issues at cold start low idle and would sometimes die unless I rev it cleaned throttle body and maf sensor made a huge difference.
 
So after work I disconnected my batterie for 30min then drove 60 miles. here are the numbers after and during the drive. What do you think?
Car at idle
View attachment 1951804

Car cruise control set at 65mph
View attachment 1951806

parked and reved to 2100rpm
View attachment 1951807

did you reset the computer(disconnect battery) before your replaced MAF?


when I saw you post that spark plug thread I went straight to my cruiser to check! which led me to find those two loose plugs and two cracked coils that I replaces

Do those numbers above look better?

coolant levels good. must not have been completely warm. these last numbers are with coolant temps at 186F. new oem thermostat last summer with TB job.
The numbers do look better. But still LT FT to far off 0 at idle.

I like replacing all 8 plug if I replace any. Coils are a bit pricey, but I've had very good results replace all 8 with Denso. Coil boot kits are second choice and wroth it if any cracking boots.

Bad gas, MAF, clogged "fuel injector", bad plugs, coils or boots, vacuum leaks, weak current from battery, oxidation in wiring, etc. all make a deference. Getting all back as close to factory is the goal for running optimal.

If all good a can of 44K in two tanks with 20 gallon of gas in a row. Use Chevron top grade or a bottle of Chevron Techron in gas. Some Seafoam fogger may also be nice after. After make sure good oil and filter. Get on HWY and run engine at 4,500+ RPM for 5 to 7 minutes (burn-out) heating cylinders and CATS to clean out.

But I don't get to hung-up on these 2UZ when cold. It does give indications of health of components, but they're designed to run at 190F -+.
 
So just to update this I added a new MAF last week while waiting for some new hoses, PCV valve, and rubber grommet.
These to readings are with new MAF and reset computer. It was fluctuating between the two.
1960582

1960583


Then today I added new hoses, PCV, and grommet and reset the computer.
This is what its at now
.
1960586

1960590


How do these new numbers look?

No clue if this was the cause of my cold start issues, and I won't know for a while sense its no longer cold in Kansas.
 
New numbers look much better. You probably had something similar to my situation: vacuum leaks on top of a failing MAF.
 
I’m going piggyback off this thread instead of starting a new one since it’s a similar issue.

I have tab after tabs loaded up on my iPad and computer trying to figure out my cold start issue. ‘99 with 330k. It runs beautifully when it’s started. Will start with no issues after I initially get it going throughout the day. The moment I park it for the night it won’t Start the next morning. It’ll crank all day long.

New battery, new plugs, new pump, new 20a efi fuse (tried 30a as well), and a EFI Relay on the way. Should get it tues. This shouldn’t be a immobilizer issue since the security light goes out when key is inserted. MAF has been cleaned as precautionary as I read a few no-start thread regarding that. No codes in techstream. I can manually turn on the fuel pump in TS and hear it run. I visually see the damper screw rise with the pump on. The last morning I went into techstream to try and prime the system by turning on the pump before start with no luck.

Any ideas? Is this a fuel pressure regulator? Other common ideas that have come up in related issues is the CPS, leaky injectors, etc.
 
CPS?

Use the FSM test for:
FPR, & spark plugs

Leaky FI usually just result in longer crank time until starts.
Check that spark plug are firing, next time by pulling a spark plug and cranking while holding coil attach to plug. Make sure to pull EFI fuse first.
 
CPS?

Use the FSM test for:
FPR, & spark plugs

Leaky FI usually just result in longer crank time until starts.
Check that spark plug are firing, next time by pulling a spark plug and cranking while holding coil attach to plug. Make sure to pull EFI fuse first.

Crank position sensor.

I’m thinking my spark plugs are firing. Once I get it started it runs great. The rest of the day I can start my LC with no issues. It’s just when I let it sit overnight or for a long period of time it struggles.

I’ll review the procedure for the regulator.
 
Crank position sensor.

I’m thinking my spark plugs are firing. Once I get it started it runs great. The rest of the day I can start my LC with no issues. It’s just when I let it sit overnight or for a long period of time it struggles.

I’ll review the procedure for the regulator.
@900exdriver did you ever figure out what the issue was for you?
 
Crank position sensor.

I’m thinking my spark plugs are firing. Once I get it started it runs great. The rest of the day I can start my LC with no issues. It’s just when I let it sit overnight or for a long period of time it struggles.

I’ll review the procedure for the regulator.
Riving this thread to see if you found the issue. I am having the exact same issue and would appreciate insights into what finally helped you. Thanks!
 
A proper tune-up corrects a lot vibration issues.
Make sure no vacuum leaks
Also all spark plugs good, also tight.
Ticking time bomb TICK TICK TICK: Spark plugs Alert Alert Alert! - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/ticking-time-bomb-tick-tick-tick-spark-plugs-alert-alert-alert.1045750/

Cold start issues/misfire until warm-up, with complete or some improvement after warm-up. Points to fuel injector, fuel pressure regulator & MAF. Cold fuel injectors run engine rich (more fuel than ait mix). If one or more not working as it should, wherein less fuel spray into cylinder(s). We get a lean condition. Once engine reaches op-temp (ECT 176F). ECM takes-over fuel trims. If we see then see long term fuel trim (LTFT) above 5%, this may point to one or more bad fuel injectors.

In one I'm helping with now. We found spark good, no vacuum leaks but LTFT BK1 15% (HWY level ground holding RPM & MPH steady). It has a P0303. Disconnecting #3 FI, no change in idle. Were having BK1 ( cyl 1,3,5,& 7) injectors cleaned, tested and rebuilt by FIS (Chuck).

I've also seen where a bad coil will act much the same. But the one I saw this on, only cold start. Had aftermarket coil.
Most bad coils, that aren't setting off a P030*. Can be seen "misfire" under load.

Some 98-99, had bad throttle bodies.
 
Thank you! I put some Lucas fuel injection cleaner in and filled up the tank. Starts like it should now! phew!
 

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