Coil and Points always 12volt (1 Viewer)

[ColdTrails]

1982 FJ40 2F Original
Had a new wiring harness installed a few years ago, a shut off switch was also installed near the steering wheel, just a normal plastic red key etc. Really there for theft if anything.

Had some dieseling happen, so I was going to replace the old electric carb solenoid bc it wasn't working.

Noticed it had 12 volts to it, even with ignition off and shut off switch disabled. Strange.

Then I start checking around and notice the coil and distributor are also hot, 12.87 volts. Same as the battery. Everything else is off.

Including the fuse box, nothing hot on either side. New Toyota fuse box was installed at the same time as the wiring harness and shut off switch.

Wonder where this power could be coming from?? Any help is appreciated.

 

[ColdTrails]

1982 FJ40 2F Original
Had a new wiring harness installed a few years ago, a shut off switch was also installed near the steering wheel, just a normal plastic red key etc. Really there for theft if anything.

Had some dieseling happen, so I was going to replace the old electric carb solenoid bc it wasn't working.

Noticed it had 12 volts to it, even with ignition off and shut off switch disabled. Strange.

Then I start checking around and notice the coil and distributor are also hot, 12.87 volts. Same as the battery. Everything else is off.

Including the fuse box, nothing hot on either side. New Toyota fuse box was installed at the same time as the wiring harness and shut off switch.

Wonder where this power could be coming from?? Any help is appreciated.

Maybe the mechanic who installed the wiring planned to steal this rig at some point and made it easy

 

[3_puppies]

does the battery go dead?
if you have points on a 1982, this would be an import, maybe from central America?
who knows what kind of wiring nightmare you have.

 

[ColdTrails]

does the battery go dead?
if you have points on a 1982, this would be an import, maybe from central America?
who knows what kind of wiring nightmare you have.

No, the battery is new. All the wiring was replaced a few years ago, very nice and neat. I'm a Texas man but live on the islands of Java, so yes its a SE Asia rig. These cruisers were equipped with points from the factory in the 80's, unlike America.

Everything goes through a kill switch, just a standard red key setup. Turn this on and the cruiser is full power, 12 volt. Just trying to figure out why the coil, points and carb solenoid are powered all the time, even when all the power is off....

 

[ColdTrails]

does the battery go dead?
if you have points on a 1982, this would be an import, maybe from central America?
who knows what kind of wiring nightmare you have.

No, the battery never runs down, probably because I start it every few days and drive it once every 3 or 4 days. Even if the voltage is under 12, I wouldn't really know it (unless the battery drops below 10 volts) because its got a new Stecker high torque starter that spins it over like crazy fast.

Just trying to figure out why the coil, points and carb solenoid are powered all the time, even when all the power is off....

 

[JohnnyC]

“very nice and neat“ wiring does not = correctly wired

my hunch is the kill switch is wired F’d

Check over wiring schematics for points trucks

 

[ColdTrails]

“very nice and neat“ wiring does not = correctly wired

my hunch is the kill switch is wired F’d

Check over wiring schematics for points trucks

Its dark already, but tomorrow I will plan to drop the kill switch from the dash and check it out. L will post what I find.....Just strange that the only hot wires are the ones that will make for an easy start, all else is powered down as they should be.

This cruiser starts and shuts off normally with the ignition, no problems. Seems the cruiser should stay running bc the coil, points and carb are hot all the time....Confusing.

 

[flx]

If the carb solenoid is on all the time the battery should discharge quite quickly, this pulls amps.

I agree with others... a good wiring should follow exactly the schematics for the model/year. As soon as it was done without the schematics who knows how many deviations there are...

 

[ColdTrails]

I have the schematics, they show a capacitor in the ignition system but capacitors normally discharge fairly quickly. When I noticed 12 volts at the coil and distributor with all the power off (ignition switch and power shut-off switch direct from the battery), I used a small screwdriver to open the points and DIDN'T get a spark there. But 12 volts was present bc I used my fluke to check it. Starts perfect, runs perfect, turns off perfect. However, the voltage is present with everything OFF, and I'm really interested in finding out why.

 

[ColdTrails]

We do a lot of island hopping on the ferrys here around Indonesia and Malay. This cruiser is 100% mechanically sound, everything was dissasembled and repaired, adjusted or replaced in late 2017. I have a book full of receipts for the work that was completed, took the custom shop over 8 months to complete the work. I've had absolutely no problems since. But I recently discovered this voltage problem and I wanna resolve it.

Ferry videos and different islands https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC-T05jzEs-Cm3qPaK8tnTVQ

Since covid shut us down over here we haven't been taking the ferrys out for long trips much but hope to again later this year.

 

[Grayscale]

ignition switch short?

 

[ColdTrails]

ignition switch short

The switch itself, key switch in the column? No doubt its very old and worn by looking at the key, my fuel cap key is similar and will fit with a little jiggle, also start the cruiser. My mechanic once used this key by mistake bc of its shape.

Let me know, you are talking about the ignition switch ya?

 

[Grayscale]

Yes, the switch behind the ignition lock cylinder. Just a guess.

 

[Steamer]

About all anyone can do from here is offer guesses but some good pics might help with the guessing. Pics of wiring at the coil, distributor, starter, alternator, and the kill switch would help.

 

[1969FJ]

A multimeter, some schematics, (if current), cannot be hard. Now, if the rig is modified , with no documentation, then it becomes a multimeter/discovery issue.