- Location
- United States
SOLD
Selling my mostly complete OM606 swap setup - I got the itch for a new project and decided I want more power/gearing/cooling for towing at high altitude than this setup can offer. It's been an amazing engine and I know it'll enjoy many more years in someone else's rig. There's nothing like owning a diesel 80 series, and the OM606 is an extremely durable and torquey engine that sounds great and turns heads. If you're into diesels and enjoy tuning/electronics then this is for you. All the hard work has been done already but prior mechanical/electrical experience is necessary.
*****Read the build thread below first****** There's lots and lots of pictures and details of the evolution of the setup, so you can see how this setup came to be.
forum.ih8mud.com
The estimated HP and TQ is 250 HP and 400 ft-lb. I averaged 17-20 mpg with this swap on my truck which has 35's, F/R bumpers and sliders, dual batteries, etc. That's up from 12-15 mpg with the 1FZ.
This setup was pulled from my fully running truck and it's basically ready to plop in another 93-97 FZJ80. You're not getting someone's unfinished project - I put over 20,000 miles on the swap and subjected it to everything from alpine rock crawling to towing and daily driving. There will be some parts that I'm keeping for my next project, but it's mostly parts which someone else would probably be able to do nicer than I ever could. The only issues I ever had with this setup were a blown turbo (my fault, don't buy Jeep parts) and a couple instances of rising coolant temps climbing CO's high altitude mountain passes in the summer, which is really just a limitation of the indirect injection tech of this engine. One may want to simplify the wiring harness to streamline it since I made it a little unnecessarily complex by keeping the stock ECU plugs in there (see build thread) Everything works fine and the connections are solid, but the controllers are a tight fit behind the glove box area which always bugged my inner perfectionist so it could be simplified pretty easily if someone cared.
The stock injection pump was leaking a little bit of oil the last few months I drove it, and I suspect the delivery valves are starting to wear out causing late injection, so I'd recommended the new owner upgrade to a Dieselmeken 7mm pump anyway for the best performance off the bat.
On the subject of torque converters - for stock gearing and bigger tires I recommend the higher stall converter which is already installed. With the old torque converter, the truck would struggle to get into boost at high altitude crawling over rocks.
On to the list of stuff included:
Engine (rebuilt less than 10k ago, tons of new OEM parts used)
Rebuilt injectors with new Monark nozzles
Rear sump oil pan and pump
2x A343F transmissions (the one bolted to the engine has a delay when cold going into drive, but otherwise works perfectly)
2x torque converters (high stall (installed) and standard)
Custom adapter plate (professionally designed and machined)
Custom engine mounts (no welding to frame required, uses 1FZ rubber mounts)
Transfer case mount and linkages
DSL1 engine controller
GTD2060VZ variable geometry turbo (better low-end spool than stock)
Microsquirt transmission controller
Arduino pre-programmed to work with the Microsquirt to interface with the Cruiser's park/neutral switch for range logic
Full wiring harness (needs a few connections soldered but I'll be available via phone/email to help the new buyer get it installed)
Custom driveshafts by Northern Colorado Driveline
Fan shroud (not pretty but it works well)
Fan with brand new OEM clutch
Extra 1FZ throttle body for your TPS signal
Box with tons of OEM Mercedes gaskets/fasteners
OM606 stock turbo
More stuff I'm forgetting
Item's you'll need to add that aren't included:
Exhaust system
Air intake (can be as simple as a cone filter)
Intercooler and piping
1FZ rubber engine mounts (re-use your stock ones)
Upper radiator hose (2x 90s and a straight section)
A/C hoses if you want that
Power steering pressure hose/fitting (any hydraulic shop can make this)
Battery cables
Misc wiring/connections
Misc fasteners/zip ties/tape
Modifications to the vehicle
Grinding away some of the fins on the transfer case so they clear the crossmember
Relocating some things around the glove box so the electronics fit
Depending on your intercooler piping setup, cutting holes in the front crossmember (see build thread above for how I did it, there's tons of ways)
Battery cable re-routing depending on your vehicle
I'm sure I'm forgetting some things so feel free to ask.
Optional but recommended:
Wideband for air/fuel ratio monitoring
EGT gauge
Full 3" exhaust
Price is $6,200 for everything plus whatever other parts I can find. Local pickup in Fort Collins, Colorado, no shipping.
Selling my mostly complete OM606 swap setup - I got the itch for a new project and decided I want more power/gearing/cooling for towing at high altitude than this setup can offer. It's been an amazing engine and I know it'll enjoy many more years in someone else's rig. There's nothing like owning a diesel 80 series, and the OM606 is an extremely durable and torquey engine that sounds great and turns heads. If you're into diesels and enjoy tuning/electronics then this is for you. All the hard work has been done already but prior mechanical/electrical experience is necessary.
*****Read the build thread below first****** There's lots and lots of pictures and details of the evolution of the setup, so you can see how this setup came to be.
Builds - Mercedes OM606 Turbodiesel into FZJ80 - engine refresh and more turbo fun
Project complete! (as complete as a project ever is) A couple years ago, I completed a 1KZ-TE hilux swap into my 01 Tacoma. I ended up needing to sell that rig, but couldn't stay away from 4x4 Yotas. That's when I found a locked 96 FZJ80 for 3k, cleaned her up, and got the diesel bug...
forum.ih8mud.com
The estimated HP and TQ is 250 HP and 400 ft-lb. I averaged 17-20 mpg with this swap on my truck which has 35's, F/R bumpers and sliders, dual batteries, etc. That's up from 12-15 mpg with the 1FZ.
This setup was pulled from my fully running truck and it's basically ready to plop in another 93-97 FZJ80. You're not getting someone's unfinished project - I put over 20,000 miles on the swap and subjected it to everything from alpine rock crawling to towing and daily driving. There will be some parts that I'm keeping for my next project, but it's mostly parts which someone else would probably be able to do nicer than I ever could. The only issues I ever had with this setup were a blown turbo (my fault, don't buy Jeep parts) and a couple instances of rising coolant temps climbing CO's high altitude mountain passes in the summer, which is really just a limitation of the indirect injection tech of this engine. One may want to simplify the wiring harness to streamline it since I made it a little unnecessarily complex by keeping the stock ECU plugs in there (see build thread) Everything works fine and the connections are solid, but the controllers are a tight fit behind the glove box area which always bugged my inner perfectionist so it could be simplified pretty easily if someone cared.
The stock injection pump was leaking a little bit of oil the last few months I drove it, and I suspect the delivery valves are starting to wear out causing late injection, so I'd recommended the new owner upgrade to a Dieselmeken 7mm pump anyway for the best performance off the bat.
On the subject of torque converters - for stock gearing and bigger tires I recommend the higher stall converter which is already installed. With the old torque converter, the truck would struggle to get into boost at high altitude crawling over rocks.
On to the list of stuff included:
Engine (rebuilt less than 10k ago, tons of new OEM parts used)
Rebuilt injectors with new Monark nozzles
Rear sump oil pan and pump
2x A343F transmissions (the one bolted to the engine has a delay when cold going into drive, but otherwise works perfectly)
2x torque converters (high stall (installed) and standard)
Custom adapter plate (professionally designed and machined)
Custom engine mounts (no welding to frame required, uses 1FZ rubber mounts)
Transfer case mount and linkages
DSL1 engine controller
GTD2060VZ variable geometry turbo (better low-end spool than stock)
Microsquirt transmission controller
Arduino pre-programmed to work with the Microsquirt to interface with the Cruiser's park/neutral switch for range logic
Full wiring harness (needs a few connections soldered but I'll be available via phone/email to help the new buyer get it installed)
Custom driveshafts by Northern Colorado Driveline
Fan shroud (not pretty but it works well)
Fan with brand new OEM clutch
Extra 1FZ throttle body for your TPS signal
Box with tons of OEM Mercedes gaskets/fasteners
OM606 stock turbo
More stuff I'm forgetting
Item's you'll need to add that aren't included:
Exhaust system
Air intake (can be as simple as a cone filter)
Intercooler and piping
1FZ rubber engine mounts (re-use your stock ones)
Upper radiator hose (2x 90s and a straight section)
A/C hoses if you want that
Power steering pressure hose/fitting (any hydraulic shop can make this)
Battery cables
Misc wiring/connections
Misc fasteners/zip ties/tape
Modifications to the vehicle
Grinding away some of the fins on the transfer case so they clear the crossmember
Relocating some things around the glove box so the electronics fit
Depending on your intercooler piping setup, cutting holes in the front crossmember (see build thread above for how I did it, there's tons of ways)
Battery cable re-routing depending on your vehicle
I'm sure I'm forgetting some things so feel free to ask.
Optional but recommended:
Wideband for air/fuel ratio monitoring
EGT gauge
Full 3" exhaust
Price is $6,200 for everything plus whatever other parts I can find. Local pickup in Fort Collins, Colorado, no shipping.
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