Clutch won't engage... Newly rebuilt engine w/ new clutch (2 Viewers)

[Boaf 32]

First-

Your pic from SOR is of four speed components.


If the other actual picture above is of your clutch fork/throw out bearing hub/throw out bearing and three finger clutch pressure plate, then you have everything you need.

Post up and picture of your slave cylinder/rod between the clutch fork and the slave cylinder.


I have found over the years that when people get 'new' parts, sometimes things change and you could have the wrong rod from the slave to the clutch fork.

New Picture attached . The moisture is fluid from bleeding.

This photo is of my install. The clutch and tranny were working. Shifting fine, decent clutch height also. Had to remove the trans to repair a leak. This started when I re-installed I do have a 3 speed, very intuitive of you.

Also, correct SOR attached. Looks like the orientation of the spring return needs to be turned around.

What may be even worse....ARGHHH may have cracked my newly installed, bored out engine block. I am now getting water out the exhaust. But one s***ty situation at a time...

Thanks

Boaf

 

[Poser]

You are missing a round engine mount under that bolt....



Slave cylinder rod looks correct.

So you say that there is no longer any more adjustment in that slave cylinder rod.

Remove the spring from the fork.

Pivot the fork so that the throw out bearing is touching the fingers on the pressure plate. (You can feel this, as the fork will stop moving)

Push the rod into the slave cylinder until it stops moving.

Compare/measure/notice the difference (longer) length needed for the clutch rod, and make a longer rod as Mark suggested earlier.

I have had to do this many times over the years.

No big deal.

 

[Boaf 32]

You are missing a round engine mount under that bolt....

It might be the picture case I put 4 new mounts in, trans and engine. But will check, you never know.

Thanks Poser. I think I'll go for the beer first to get the creative juices flowing. Will let you know how it goes.

Now on to the other problem, a watery exhaust with the carburetor fuel completely closed. Something is definitely rotten in the engine. will run it and pull the rocker and look for the foam. I gotta bad feeling about this.

Cheers!

Boaf



Slave cylinder rod looks correct.

So you say that there is no longer any more adjustment in that slave cylinder rod.

Remove the spring from the fork.

Pivot the fork so that the throw out bearing is touching the fingers on the pressure plate. (You can feel this, as the fork will stop moving)

Push the rod into the slave cylinder until it stops moving.

Compare/measure/notice the difference (longer) length needed for the clutch rod, and make a longer rod as Mark suggested earlier.

I have had to do this many times over the years.

No big deal.

 

[Poser]

It might be the picture case I put 4 new mounts in, trans and engine. But will check, you never know.

Six are required; two on the front of the engine and four on the flywheel housing.

 

[Boaf 32]

Six are required; two on the front of the engine and four on the flywheel housing.

Bloody Hell.....will do

 

[73FJ40]

From our friends at SOR:

 

[Boaf 32]

From our friends at SOR:

And I thank you. I still have the bushing so will install. It's in good shape still.

Boaf

 

[Boaf 32]

You are missing a round engine mount under that bolt....

So I do need a longer slave cylinder push rod. Like I said, it worked before I had to remove the transmission (seal it) and re-install it. I also seem to recall the clutch grabbed very low, so maybe time to extend. Thanks

I can go to Ace grind (round and smooth the end that fit's into the slave cylinder - as it is now) and make my own, or go to an auto store with my measurements (do auto stores carry these as a standard item? just curious).

Boaf


Slave cylinder rod looks correct.

So you say that there is no longer any more adjustment in that slave cylinder rod.

Remove the spring from the fork.

Pivot the fork so that the throw out bearing is touching the fingers on the pressure plate. (You can feel this, as the fork will stop moving)

Push the rod into the slave cylinder until it stops moving.

Compare/measure/notice the difference (longer) length needed for the clutch rod, and make a longer rod as Mark suggested earlier.

I have had to do this many times over the years.

No big deal.

 

[greenbeasty]

I dare say the orientation of motor mounts would fail the eyesore test more often than bezels if we could see them!

 

[bikersmurf]

I was looking under the truck recently and found the transmission shop that rebuilt my transmission and transfercase discarded the upper two donuts. I'd go tell someone off, but it was 18 years ago. It was a reputable shop... just goes to show you can't trust anyone.

I'd seen they'd trimmed one of my Custom transmission mounts with an oxyacetylene torch... even more thrilled to see the missing mounts.

 

[Michael Hanson]

Hi, No one works on a truck better than the owner . I work slow , and try to catch my mistakes ,of which there are many. Hopefully I don't make the same mistake too many times. Don't beat yourself up over this ,just learn from it. Mike

 

[Poser]

So I do need a longer slave cylinder push rod. Like I said, it worked before I had to remove the transmission (seal it) and re-install it. I also seem to recall the clutch grabbed very low, so maybe time to extend. Thanks

So you figured out that you need to extend the rod?

I can go to Ace grind (round and smooth the end that fit's into the slave cylinder - as it is now) and make my own, or go to an auto store with my measurements (do auto stores carry these as a standard item? just curious).

Boaf

Auto parts stores that I have been to typically do not carry this item.

 

[Boaf 32]

So you figured out that you need to extend the rod?




Auto parts stores that I have been to typically do not carry this item.

I believe so, put the TOB on the three fingers, with the rod fully adjusted and had someone push in the clutch. It did move but apparently not enough as the gears would grind. One more test this morning. Put in gear and turn the crank. It should move. If not, uh oh. Hopefully that is not the case.

Hopefully, off to Ace, time to cut and grind a new half threaded rod! Thanks Poser.

Boaf

 

[Boaf 32]

Hi, No one works on a truck better than the owner . I work slow , and try to catch my mistakes ,of which there are many. Hopefully I don't make the same mistake too many times. Don't beat yourself up over this ,just learn from it. Mike

Thanks Mike, I hear you, that's how we learn. Never thorough out old parts until you have been driving for a while on the new ones. I still have them and they are in good shape. I wondered whey the bolts were so long.

My problem is I travel a bunch and when I am home try to get as much done in as little time as possible, there is the rub.

Boaf

 

[Boaf 32]

I believe so, put the TOB on the three fingers, with the rod fully adjusted and had someone push in the clutch. It did move but apparently not enough as the gears would grind. One more test this morning. Put in gear and turn the crank. It should move. If not, uh oh. Hopefully that is not the case.

Hopefully, off to Ace, time to cut and grind a new half threaded rod! Thanks Poser.

Boaf

Well, not good news. Put the LC in gear in 2H, 4H, 4 L. Tried to start the car in First, and reverse. The truck did not move. I'm thinking that is pretty bad. apparently, we have a good clutch, good push rod, Transmission not good. Looks like it has to come out AGAIN!!!

I may have access to a 1964 3 speed transmission and transfer case. I am wondering if that would fit. Either way, it seems something broke inside the transmission. Any diagnosis from you would be helpful.

Boaf.

 

[greenbeasty]

Sorry to hear, $hour not be too hard to sourse a replacement. where are you located?

 

[Boaf 32]

Sorry to hear, $hour not be too hard to sourse a replacement. where are you located?

North of Philly area PA, I think I found one, 1964 but do you have one to offer?

 

[Rusty 72]

North of Philly area PA, I think I found one, 1964 but do you have one to offer?

Wish you were closer. I have 2 good 3 speeds in my scrap pile.

 

[Boaf 32]

Wish you were closer. I have 2 good 3 speeds in my scrap pile.

I travel to New England if that is your location...

 

[Rusty 72]

I travel to New England if that is your location...

Sorry but I am in Missouri