Clutch won't engage... Newly rebuilt engine w/ new clutch (1 Viewer)

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Jun 17, 2011
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Lake Tahoe, California
Lil' help if you would... this is a tangent thread to my Snowpig Project thread. I will be updating it shortly with a ton of pics, but I have a slight issue I need to deal with first. I just got the motor dropped in and running but when I try and shift into gear, all gears are catching and reverse just wants to grind. I replaced the clutch plate and pressure plate when I did the rebuild... am I missing something? I tried adjusting the slave cylinder rod with the nut as close and as far away as I could get it and the result is the same.

Any ideas???
 
X2 is it popping into gear but grinding? Will the truck move once it goes into gear? Sounds to me like it is not disengaging if it does. Throw out bearing not sitting right? Installed backwards? Blah blah blah?
 
You have to confirm that the clutch is releasing. It doesn't sound like it is. Put in gear, engine off. Step on clutch. Start engine. If it starts without movement, you are ok on the clutch and you have a transmission problem (input shaft and output shaft frozen together). If it doesn't start without movement, your clutch is definitely the problem, confirm you put the throw out bearing in the right direction. Could be in backwards. You don't have a lot of information here, but adjust your clutch push rod for the maximum movement.

Don
 
Re: What does this mean... Yes the truck wants to move. Seemed like the clutch plate would only go on 1 direction... sitting here thinking is it possible I installed it in the wrong direction??? I f'ing hope to god not.
 
Your clutch disc is in backwards.

I have read enough threads on here to believe you know what you are talking about... are you positive?
 
Phone number is in the signature.

Call if you would like.







So with the pilot bearing installed, I then install the clutch disc, pressure plate and throw out bearing. The first picture shows which side of the clutch disc is the flywheel side and the second picture shows the opposite side, or the side that faces the pressure plate/transmission when installed.
fws.jpg
ts.jpg
 
Thanks everybody for the quick feedback, after a quick chat with Poser, I went to work... Transmission dropped and sure enough that sonofabitch is in backwards. Can't believe I did that, but oh well. Lesson learned. I hope my unfortunate mistake helps somebody else out in the future.
 
You have to confirm that the clutch is releasing. It doesn't sound like it is. Put in gear, engine off. Step on clutch. Start engine. If it starts without movement, you are ok on the clutch and you have a transmission problem (input shaft and output shaft frozen together). If it doesn't start without movement, your clutch is definitely the problem, confirm you put the throw out bearing in the right direction. Could be in backwards. You don't have a lot of information here, but adjust your clutch push rod for the maximum movement.

Don
Hi Don,

Is this an example of a backward through-out bearing? Brand new clutch, won't go into gear and the clutch is very low pedal. I did not think it possible to have it backwards!!!

Slave push rod is all the way out.

Looking at SOR, I think I just answered my own question. SHEIT. No Pilot bearing installed. Still need some confirmation. Let me know...thanks.
Boaf

T-Bearing.jpg
 
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That throw out bearing orientation looks correct to me.

Needs to be adjusted however.
 
I wish now that I'd looked at my clutch closer when I had the chance. I bought an engine with new H55 trans and split case. Supposed to be a CCOT rebuild and the guy was disappointed and went v8. Sold engine/trans/transfer and I wound up with it, runs great.

I split trans and mounted engine then re-mated trans. Never pulled pressure plate & disc, didn't see a need as it all looked new. With new slave and master I could not get enough stroke to engage clutch. I thought it was issue with off year mixed parts. I bought a coupling nut and welded the stock ball nut to it to get extra length. Works fine for 3-5k I have put on it.

Now I wonder. Does backwards disc cause any other issue?
Shane
 
That throw out bearing orientation looks correct to me.

Needs to be adjusted however.

So now the big question, how? The push rod for the slave cylinder is all the way out.

Looking at SOR, there is a Bearing Hub and a Throw out bearing in this shot. I do not see a Throw out bearing in my photo. Also, if the orientation is correct in the attached drawing, I need to reverse my spring on the Slave cylinder, no big thing there. Thoughts there?

Thanks Poser,

Boaf

T-Bearing 2.png
 
Due to the many examples of clutch discs installed backwards, I took a magic marker and wrote "engine" on one side and "tranny" on the other. No confusion in the heat of getting the pressure plate bolted down.

:clap: Update with picture:
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Due to the many examples of clutch discs installed backwards, I took a magic marker and wrote "engine" on one side and "transmission" on the other. No confusion in the heat of getting the pressure plate bolted down.

:clap:
Yep, did the white dot on the engine side.
 
Hi Don,

Is this an example of a backward through-out bearing? Brand new clutch, won't go into gear and the clutch is very low pedal. I did not think it possible to have it backwards!!!

Slave push rod is all the way out.

Looking at SOR, I think I just answered my own question. SHEIT. No Pilot bearing installed. Still need some confirmation. Let me know...thanks.
Boaf

View attachment 1595132

I have had it happen two, maybe three times in 30 years where I had to make a longer pushrod for exactly the same reasons you have posted. Everything else in working order. Luckily, a simple 10x1:25 die an some common rod stock is all that’s needed.
 
So now the big question, how? The push rod for the slave cylinder is all the way out.

Looking at SOR, there is a Bearing Hub and a Throw out bearing in this shot. I do not see a Throw out bearing in my photo. Also, if the orientation is correct in the attached drawing, I need to reverse my spring on the Slave cylinder, no big thing there. Thoughts there?

Thanks Poser,

Boaf

View attachment 1595201



First-

Your pic from SOR is of four speed components.


If the other actual picture above is of your clutch fork/throw out bearing hub/throw out bearing and three finger clutch pressure plate, then you have everything you need.


Post up and picture of your slave cylinder/rod between the clutch fork and the slave cylinder.


I have found over the years that when people get 'new' parts, sometimes things change and you could have the wrong rod from the slave to the clutch fork.
 

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