Clutch Slave PITA (1 Viewer)

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Feb 13, 2018
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So, replacing clutch slave and, of course, everything is not going according to plan. Funny how 50 year old nuts are happy to remain in the same place. Ignore pictures and this post for that matter--I had a question but solved it. m

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Rats! I have to do that this Spring to get my 78 driving again. I might be slightly at an advantage as mine was off during the SBC conversion. But likely it will also be a PITA as well. Sounds like it might be a job for Kroil.
 
What I use for frozen brake/clutch lines is a cheap set of Harbor Frieght flare nut wrenches. Slip one over the nut then use a vise grip clamped down hard to keep the wrench from spreading apart. Hard tap with a hammer and they come loose. This has even worked better on regular nuts. My box end wrenches are twelve point while flare wrenches are size.
 
well, that's 6 cumulative hours of my life i won't get back dealing with that lone holdout nut. I ended up dremeling the s%%t out of it until the nut got obliterated. I lost one-half of the circumference of the threads on part X above but i think I can still get a nut on it sufficiently tight. Will work on the slave install later this weekend.
 
i have a broken bolt kit from snap on works every time on any nut ive stripped or is stuborn
 
Got the slave in (mostly) and wife helped on the bleeding (thanks honey). Clutch feels good although have not driven the rig yet--9 PST and a few glasses of wine--this can wait until tomorrow. I still need to put a nut on the the slave bolt that is toward the front of the rig. I kind of mangled the bolt taking the slave off but have a tap and die set to hopefully be able to put a nut on it. With that said, the slave is very solid on the rig and I don't see it moving even without the nut. Interesting, the back of the slave uses a basic bolt but the front is attached via a long bolt with male ends--the bolt is the "X" bolt above and it attaches a bunch of rods--the nut on the side opposite the slave is nice and tight and I can't move the slave at all with any force. To be safe, if I can't get a nut on it I will buy a replacement bolt from SOR but again, I don't see anything coming off even if I did not attach the front slave nut. Finally, I would add that I used the original push rod for the new slave. The one that came with my new slave was at least 2" too short and would not have worked. Not sure if others have experienced that. Later. Martin
 
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As an aside (and I mean aside!), I get my one year old Llewellin English setter back next week. He has been hunting quail in AZ with my trainer for past 3 weeks— natural ability and 6 months of training— we shall see how good he is— love him no matter what of course!
 
Ok, enough with the puppy. Anyway, I was unable to put a bolt on the shaft so I did a very billy bob, short term fix by attaching a washer to the shaft and then JB welded it to the shaft and the slave mounting bracket. Of course, I have a nice used oem shaft being sent to me by @pardion and I got an extra bracket from John as well. Bottom line, after spending more time than I really wanted to on this and because the the clutch is bled, I really wanted to drive my 40 on Christmas day--hence the proverbial desperate times call for desperate measures. Anyway, there will be no pictures posted of this Frankenstein, hack job I did but no matter since I know it is relatively bullet proof and I will have it back to the factory spec set up at a near future date. Later and Merry Christmas. Martin
 
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Safe and sound back in my shop. It never rains in San Diego except for today. Anyway, took the 40 out for a short ride. Shifts great, new slave is working great with no leaks and the JB Weld on my hack job is bullet proof--not a major stress area so I would not have expected issues. I think I am going to order the City Racer clutch line (they make an OEM reproduction) just to be on the safe side. I know I should have just done the master while i was at it but am sure I will have not choice on that--maybe sooner rather than later.
 

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