Clutch release cylinder replacement on BJ75 — broken bolts, look away (1 Viewer)

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Hi Folks

I thought it would be fun to share my progress replacing the clutch release cylinder on my BJ75 single cab. It has a five speed transmission (part 33030-60500).

Two months ago, I noticed that the clutch master cylinder reservoir was discolored and the fluid yucky, so I took a look underneath the truck and sure enough, the release cylinder was weeping. Last week, on a hot day, I started the truck in the parking lot and immediately the truck crawled forward. I shut off the truck and pumped the pedal, which was spongy. I started it up and all was fine again. I had a hunch that the release cylinder was worn out and ready to be replaced.

I could not find the original release cylinder available via Toyota, so I called Sunny at FJ Parts, who sold me a brand new Aisin release cylinder as well as a new brake master cylinder (that’s another project). They arrived quickly and they look great.

I began my work soaking the release cylinder bolts in oil. Above in the engine bay, I removed the clip which holds the hard line to the soft clutch hose. You need a little Knipex pliers to lever that clip out. Before taking it all the way out, I broke the nut on the clutch hard line, using a clutch line 10mm wrench (probably not the right term but you get my gist?). I used a baster to evacuate any fluid in the clutch master cylinder reservoir.

I went below and used a ratcheting wrench in the two bolts holding the release cylinder to the transmission. The first broke quickly, the second was weirdly, eerily slow. I panicked. I soaked it in more oil and checked that I was not rounding the threads. I turned slowly, then the bolt broke free, but only 20% of the bolt came out. The other 80% is still in there. 💩

My two first challenges are finding a replacement clutch hose and secondly extracting that broken bolt. I was thinking of drilling it out. Space is tight. Maybe heat it? Soak it in oil? Use extractor bolts? I’ve never extracted a bolt before so I am in the dark on that.

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Those will be a whore to get out. I unfortunately have LOTS of experience with broken bolts.( 20 Year Land Rover convert.) We break all our bolts off so we always have new one all over the truck.
Best bet is drill the center. Use a tiny bit. It's easier to get the hole centered and walks less than a larger one. Then start enlarging the hole incrementally. If you see aluminum shaving coming out, you are angled in there.
Use as little force as possible with a high quality EZ out. Don't use a cheap one, you might live to regret it. That's another story entirely if you break a piece of tool steel off in that hole. I have lived that nightmare in a closed bottom hole. That get's into trying to freeze the broken tap and get it to shatter.

Good luck and I don't envy that tight working area.
 
Hello,

That fluid seems to have been in there since the truck left the factory... It looks nasty.

WD-40 (lots of it) and a breaker bar have worked for me loosening bolts in the past.







Juan
 
Folks, the clutch hose (90931-01020) is NLA. I got Georg at Valley Hybrids working on a replacement now.

My clutch hose looks fine on the outside but I'd like to replace it while I am in there, as seems to be the advice from the community
 
I use a “center drill” bit when trying to extract broken bolts.
Start with a center punch or prick punch to make a dent close to the bolts center.
Center drill won’t bend or flex.
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From the picture it looks like you have a little bit of the bolt shank proud of the tapped hole, if thats the case i would find a nut that closely fits over the exposed shank and either mig or tig weld the two together and try unscrewing it. Generally the heat from welding loosens the stubborn bolt and they come out relatively easy.
 
I’ve got an appointment with a technician with the tools and talent to extract that stuck bolt.

Georg at Cruiser Brothers also has a custom clutch hose made for me so that I can dispense with the old, gross one.

Oh, and I had to go all the way and buy a brand new Toyota clutch master cylinder from Toyota. None of the cruiser guys had that part any cheaper. Oh well.

Next week I’ll reassemble.
 
From the picture it looks like you have a little bit of the bolt shank proud of the tapped hole, if thats the case i would find a nut that closely fits over the exposed shank and either mig or tig weld the two together and try unscrewing it. Generally the heat from welding loosens the stubborn bolt and they come out relatively easy.

I agree.....
This would be the quickest and easiest procedure for removing the broken bolt.
 
I always spray 100% deet (Bens) on stuck nuts and bolts. Let it soak for a day then giver. Works awesome. Otherwise the above mig technique works.
 
Some 100% deet I left in my door card pocket leaked and dissolved some vinyl.
Interesting to read of other uses.
 
What would "deet" be know as outside of your world??
G

N,N-Diethyl-meta-toluamide, also called DEET (/diːt/) or diethyltoluamide, is the most common active ingredient in insect repellents. It is a slightly yellow oil intended to be applied to the skin or to clothing and provides protection against mosquitoes, ticks, fleas, chiggers, leeches and many biting insects.
 
The “deet” trick was passed on through a friend who spent most of his life in PEI Canada. Everything rusts there, surrounded by ocean and maybe likely they salt the rds in the winter. Had an old rusty bj45 at the time and was breaking bolts like crazy. Not after that. Need to let them soak tho. Worked for me. Can’t see why it wouldn’t work for you. Has to be the strong stuff, 100%. Don’t use by rubber or plastic parts, they will dissolve quickly...
 

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