Clutch problem? (1 Viewer)

[edwjmcgrath]

You will always see bubbles when you first bleed, even if there's no air in the system, because there's air in the bleed hose. If it works better, I guess that's good but I wouldn't drive it like that. If your clutch fails sometime when you need to stop quickly, you'll be in real trouble.

 

[PrimeFJ]

Well I did bleed it for a good amount.. Looked muddy and the consistency seemed almost like water-ish.

Did this while keeping the clutch master topped.
Pressed the clutch pedal a couple times. And topped off the reservoir.

Took it around the block and the gears would engage closer to the firewall when it's normally set at halfway released. I'm just going to wait till the new assemblies come in to swap and flush the whole system.

Just frustrating cause this is keeping me from driving it.

 

[jmdaniel]

It'll be good when you get the new stuff on. Bolt that stuff in, fill the reservoir and gravity bleed it overnight. Personally, I'd do that before putting the new stuff in. The fluid is cheap, the work is minimal, and why flush the crap in the line into the new slave? But it's your call. I don't have the part number for the slave spring, but I know some folks have picked up springs that have worked at Lowe's/home Depot.

 

[edwjmcgrath]

I posted the part number earlier. Does it really make sense to try to find a spring with the correct free length, spring rate, and all of the other characteristics when Toyota sells the correct part for a few bucks.
This is in your driveline.

 

[PrimeFJ]

Thanks edw for the parts number gonna pick that up tomorrow. I'm totally new with this 40 and I learn a lot from you guys.

The 40 will have to wait until Tuesday (via ups) to get the new clutch master and slave assemblies installed.

Daniel: u say gravity bleed it overnight?
I thought all u do is let it flush through until no air bubbles is present. Elaborate please?

I was going to bench bleed the clutch master and slave, install the two, adjust, and double check by gravity feed?

Is there a preferred way?

 

[edwjmcgrath]

Yes, IMHO the preferred way is to install the two and gravity bleed them in 2 minutes.
No bench bleeding and no overnight.

 

[jmdaniel]

I posted the part number earlier. Does it really make sense to try to find a spring with the correct free length, spring rate, and all of the other characteristics when Toyota sells the correct part for a few bucks.
This is in your driveline.

Relax. I was just mentioning what others had done, with success.

 

[jmdaniel]

Daniel: u say gravity bleed it overnight?
I thought all u do is let it flush through until no air bubbles is present. Elaborate please?

I was going to bench bleed the clutch master and slave, install the two, adjust, and double check by gravity feed?

Is there a preferred way?

Again, I was just mentioning what has worked for others, and in the case of gravity bleeding overnight, for me personally. I recommended you do a gravity bleed with your old stuff on, basically because it sounds like you have some funky fluid. You aren't replacing the line, just the master and slave, so running some clean fluid through would help make sure the line was as clean as possible. In this case, maybe it should be called a gravity "flush". The fluid is cheap, so what can it hurt?

No bench bleeding of the new stuff necessary. Just bolt it on, fill the reservoir, and crack the bleeder on the slave, after running a clear hose off it and into a receptacle. Overnight, 2 minutes, who cares? Just stop when you see no more air bubbles.

You're in Austin and so am I, shoot me a PM if you have any other questions on the topic.

 

[PrimeFJ]

Again, I was just mentioning what has worked for others, and in the case of gravity bleeding overnight, for me personally. I recommended you do a gravity bleed with your old stuff on, basically because it sounds like you have some funky fluid. You aren't replacing the line, just the master and slave, so running some clean fluid through would help make sure the line was as clean as possible. In this case, maybe it should be called a gravity "flush". The fluid is cheap, so what can it hurt?

No bench bleeding of the new stuff necessary. Just bolt it on, fill the reservoir, and crack the bleeder on the slave, after running a clear hose off it and into a receptacle. Overnight, 2 minutes, who cares? Just stop when you see no more air bubbles.

You're in Austin and so am I, shoot me a PM if you have any other questions on the topic.

I appreciate the advise Daniel. Hope to meet u and some of the guys in the near future.

 

[jmdaniel]

I have flare wrenches as well, always a good idea when monkeying around with old lines.

Jeff

 

[PrimeFJ]

I have flare wrenches as well, always a good idea when monkeying around with old lines.

Jeff

Haha sorry... Jeff

 

[jmdaniel]

Haha sorry... Jeff

No worries, I get it all the time. I love it when I am asked by some putz to give them my name, last name first. I say Daniel, they look over their glasses, and harrumph, " I SAID... last name first!" To which I respond, "I KNOW what you said!"

 

[Blake Fischer]

I just replaced the clutch master cylinder, clutch slave cylinder, and braided steel line. I bled it and it works properly, but I cannot seem to adjust it correctly.
I tried to follow the specifications in the book that I have, but when I do it seems that the clutch engages when the pedal is almost all the way out, and this isn't how it was (or how I think it should be) I have played with the adjustment on the master rod, and slave rod and it basically starts to engage when the pedal is about halfway out, I think that I would still like it to engage a little earlier, but this seems so far out of spec I am worried.
What should I do?

 

[PrimeFJ]

I'm about to install new clutch master and slave.. To keep the same settings as before, wouldn't u just mock the same adjustments as the old settings on the master and slave rod?

 

[jmdaniel]

I'm about to install new clutch master and slave.. To keep the same settings as before, wouldn't u just mock the same adjustments as the old settings on the master and slave rod?

That would be a good place to start, but doesn't guarantee you won't need to make adjustments.

 

[Blake Fischer]

The new parts that I received seem to be a little different than the ones that I replaced. So mimicking the settings didn't work. My FJ40 is a 1974 and it was the last year of the F engine, and some even had the 2F so I think that some of the other parts were in transition too. Or I bought some cheap replacements.

 

[PrimeFJ]

Ok so new clutch master and slave came in today.

Installed the two. Filled the reservoir and opened the bleeder nipple at the slave.. Pumped the clutch pedal a couple times.. Nothing.

The reservoir is still full.. Maybe went down by a teensy bit. Pulled off hose that connects to the slave and still no brake fluid.. What am I doing wrong? I thought this was a walk in the park. Wow lol

Edit: disregard I got it to flow just now.

Will report back later

 

[PrimeFJ]

Everything installed and back to Near normal.

I say near because the gear engages when the clutch pedal is released closer to the top as opposed to half way.

I'm assuming to get the gear to engage at half clutch release or closer to the firewall is to adjust the slave rod bolt? Which direction does it go to achieve this?

 

[jmdaniel]

Everything installed and back to Near normal.

I say near because the gear engages when the clutch pedal is released closer to the top as opposed to half way.

I'm assuming to get the gear to engage at half clutch release or closer to the firewall is to adjust the slave rod bolt? Which direction does it go to achieve this?

You need to get a manual...