Clutch problem? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter cbmontgo
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #22
have some one press the clutch in ( not running ) while you look at your slave, see if it is even moving the clutch fork.
did the slave rod push the clutch fork?
I would start there.
It does move the rod. Is the clutch fork in the bell housing?
Is it possible for it to be working only part way if there is a seal leak?
The slave rod pushes the clutch fork ( the metal bit coming out of your bell housing with the rubber boot around it ). The clutch fork is on a pivot, and cantelevors / pushes the pressure plate in so you can disengage the clutch tochange gears.
How far does the the slave rod push the clutch fork?
No inspection cover is gonna make it pretty tough to see what's happening with your clutch.
How far does the the slave rod push the clutch fork?
No inspection cover is gonna make it pretty tough to see what's happening with your clutch.
- Thread starter
- #24
Thanks. It seems to only push it an inch or so.
there is no clutch inspection plate at all on your bell-housing.?
Thing is, if the clutch fork is pulled away from the pressure plate ( towards your spring and slave rod )
your clutch should be engaged, assuming your in neutral.
can you verify your truck is in neutral?> ( follow your shift linkages )
you said it lurched when you started it in neutral? or was it stuck in gear?
Thing is, if the clutch fork is pulled away from the pressure plate ( towards your spring and slave rod )
your clutch should be engaged, assuming your in neutral.
can you verify your truck is in neutral?> ( follow your shift linkages )
you said it lurched when you started it in neutral? or was it stuck in gear?
can you post a photo of your clutch inspection plate, or the bottom of the bell housing, between the oil pan and the transmission >/?
it is likely that you need to rebuild you slave and master and bleed it, as you slave is leaking.
But it be nice to be able to see what your clutch arm is adjusted... ie how far your clutch or is pressing in your pressure plate
it is likely that you need to rebuild you slave and master and bleed it, as you slave is leaking.
But it be nice to be able to see what your clutch arm is adjusted... ie how far your clutch or is pressing in your pressure plate
- Thread starter
- #27
The truck would lurch when the key was turned and the clutch was depressed, so it was essentially not working. It is now in neutral and will start and idle fine.
I picked up the new part from Toyota today, but they ordered the wrong one. The bolts are spaced differently and the body is a little different. It sucks because these are 2 days out; really needed the part today.
Is a flare nut wrench required to loosen the nut at the end of the black hose?
- Thread starter
- #28
can you post a photo of your clutch inspection plate, or the bottom of the bell housing, between the oil pan and the transmission >/?
it is likely that you need to rebuild you slave and master and bleed it, as you slave is leaking.
But it be nice to be able to see what your clutch arm is adjusted... ie how far your clutch or is pressing in your pressure plate
Will do. I will take a pic when I get the new part in and post it up. Thanks for the help, destin.
No. An open end wrench will do. I doubt that a flare nut wrench would get over the rubber line.
cbmontgo said:
That spring costs $3-4 from Toyota. It will probably fail before your new slave. I'd replace it now while you are under there.
- Thread starter
- #31
Good to know. I will just use an open end wrench then.
Crap...forgot to order that today. The new cylinder comes in tomorrow from Kansas City. Will have to grab it next time I am over at Toyota.
While you are at it, how old do you figure that flexible hose is?
I've got a bad habit of replacing everything I touch when I fix things. When my MC went, I replaced the master, the slave, the hose and both (pedal and slave return) springs. It works great and I know I won't have to touch it again in my lifetime.
A blue slave cylinder from Toyota?
That is a new one for me. EVERYTHING hydraulic I have ever received from them in 24 years has been black.
If you own a flare wrench, try it. I use them to remove that hose every time.
Blue looks like Aisin. Is your dealer trying to pass off Aisin as Toyota?
78fj40mg
TLCA #23510
Recently I purchased an Aisin master and slave and both are black.
- Thread starter
- #36
A blue slave cylinder from Toyota?
That is a new one for me. EVERYTHING hydraulic I have ever received from them in 24 years has been black.
Yep...it is stamped "AISIN" on the side (I buy all OEM from Groove Toyota here in town; they are great BTW). Gonna return it tomorrow. Apparently it was bagged or tagged wrong.
Some OEM replacement parts I have bought over the years (VCVs for example), are different colors than original. Not sure why...different OEM vendors in Japan I guess.
I'm having the same problem now too.. The clutch pedal works fine for awhile when driving and then all of a sudden hits the firewall and I'd have to pump it. Was stuck in an HEB parking lot and everyone and their mama wants to back out of parking spot. Fail.
I did notice there has been some leak behind the clutch pedal and crud has built up on the firewall from the boot sleeve area. Slave has no signs of leaking. Where do I get the new slave return spring? Part number?
Reservoir is full but it looks really murky and not like the clear dot 3 brake fluid u would see..
I have no idea how this clutch system works.
I've seen the bench bleeding technique video but how would I go bout bleeding the old system to get rid of potential air bubbles before doing the new replacement.
Anyways ordered a clutch master and slave cylinder. I hope it's one or the other that's causing the issue.
Thanks for any info in advance.
I did notice there has been some leak behind the clutch pedal and crud has built up on the firewall from the boot sleeve area. Slave has no signs of leaking. Where do I get the new slave return spring? Part number?
Reservoir is full but it looks really murky and not like the clear dot 3 brake fluid u would see..
I have no idea how this clutch system works.
I've seen the bench bleeding technique video but how would I go bout bleeding the old system to get rid of potential air bubbles before doing the new replacement.
Anyways ordered a clutch master and slave cylinder. I hope it's one or the other that's causing the issue.
Thanks for any info in advance.
If it's firewall leakage, it's probably the master, but good idea to replace both of them.
I just did a gravity bleed on mine and it worked fine. Fill the master, put a hose on the slave bleeder into a jar with some fluid in it. Open the bleeder and watch the jar for bubbles. Keep the master full and drain until there are no more bubbles.
31240A SPRING, TENSION(FOR CLUTCH RELEASE FORK RETURN)
90506‑16475 (08/1974 - 06/1980) 1 $7.31
90506‑18055 (03/1969 - 07/1974) 1 $5.10
I just did a gravity bleed on mine and it worked fine. Fill the master, put a hose on the slave bleeder into a jar with some fluid in it. Open the bleeder and watch the jar for bubbles. Keep the master full and drain until there are no more bubbles.
31240A SPRING, TENSION(FOR CLUTCH RELEASE FORK RETURN)
90506‑16475 (08/1974 - 06/1980) 1 $7.31
90506‑18055 (03/1969 - 07/1974) 1 $5.10
Thanks for the quick reply kind sir.
Yea I really want to flush the reservoir since its so murky. I was able to gravity bleed from the slave and I immediately saw air bubbles when I loosen the bolt.
Thanks for info seems to be a temp. fix hopefully once the new assemblies come in I can just swap them.
Yea I really want to flush the reservoir since its so murky. I was able to gravity bleed from the slave and I immediately saw air bubbles when I loosen the bolt.
Thanks for info seems to be a temp. fix hopefully once the new assemblies come in I can just swap them.
