Clutch master cylinder

[dualcabhj75]

Does anyone know of a tread that talks about clutch master cylinder? Replace, bleed and adjustments. Mine recently went out. I purchased a new one from Cruiser outfitters installed it bled it but, still hard to shift gears. I was wondering if there’s a tread about it somewhere. I have a 1989 hj75.

 

[LDowney]

There are probably threads, you may just need to be persistent in searching because they might not use the key words that you are searching with.

If you have installed it and bled it, then I hope my question will be clear (even if I communicate poorly).

Did you measure the length of the original rod connecting the pedal to the clutch master? After measuring, did you then adjust the length of the same rod with the new clutch master to have this length?

If the length of the rod with the new master is off (probably short), then the pedal stroke might not be enough to fully stroke the slave cylinder and lead to shifting difficulty. Just a thought ...

 

[Pighead]

installed it bled it but, still hard to shift gears.

Adjust. You forgot to add "Adjusted"

 

[dualcabhj75]

There are probably threads, you may just need to be persistent in searching because they might not use the key words that you are searching with.

If you have installed it and bled it, then I hope my question will be clear (even if I communicate poorly).

Did you measure the length of the original rod connecting the pedal to the clutch master? After measuring, did you then adjust the length of the same rod with the new clutch master to have this length?

If the length of the rod with the new master is off (probably short), then the pedal stroke might not be enough to fully stroke the slave cylinder and lead to shifting difficulty. Just a thought ...

Thanks for the reply. I’m going to take it out and remeasure everything hopefully to remedy the hard shifting.

 

[LDowney]

For your consideration ... It would be a task, but you might be able to adjust the length without removing the master. Measure the original, then see if you can adjust the new one with the master installed. (avoid re-bleeding if successful but working up under the dash and pedals is an access pain too)

Good luck

 

[JuanJ]

Hello,

The search function is your friend. You can also use a search engine (Bing or DDG) to search the forum.

The pedal height, measured from the floor, should be 181 mm or 7 1/4 in. There is a nut in the upper part of the pedal, at about the same level as the push rod, to adjust height.

Pedal free play should be between 13.0 mm and 23.0 mm or 1/2 in. to 15/16 in. The master cylinder's push rod has an adjustment nut to correct free play.

Bleeding the system properly can be tedious. Again, the search function is your friend.






Juan

 

[jblueridge]

You checked the slave cylinder and the fork it pushes on?
I had a badly broken fork on an MG that took me a while to figure out.

 

[FlCruiser5]

You checked the slave cylinder and the fork it pushes on?
I had a badly broken fork on an MG that took me a while to figure out.

Fully bleeding the accumulator was the difficult part for me. I replace the master, the accumulator, and the slave at the same time. I had to crack the hard line to bleed the air out of the accumulator before bleeding the slave.

 

[jblueridge]

Could you move the slave out of the way and wiggle the clutch fork inside the bellhousing? That's how I found my problem years ago.

 

[dualcabhj75]

So today I was up under the dash and I noticed that the pushed rod is different from the one I originally had on the truck. Idk how I missed it but here’s a picture of the 2. Notice the new one has a larger piece added to the end. I’m 100% sure that’s why my length is incorrect and I’m still having a hard time shifting gears.

 

[dualcabhj75]

 

[dualcabhj75]

Here’s how it looks under the dash installed.

 

[Rigster]

Here’s how it looks under the dash installed. View attachment 4100079

It appears adjustable though? Maybe measure the old one and make the new one similar, then adjust from there.