Clutch Master Cylinder leaking through fire wall (1 Viewer)

[slickrock]

OK I am changing this post a bit. IF my master cylinder is leaking, could that cause the clutch to slip due ot lack of a constant pressure. The rig jumps when starting out and I figure that if I replace the cylinder, my lurching clutch issues might be fixed.

 

[PabloCruise]

I'd just go new clutch m/c from Druiser Dan.

I tried to rebuild my brake master, but the bore was pitted, so it leaked again...

Got a new one - no worries!

 

[osagecruiser]

i second that...just got one from cdan and replaced it on my 72 55 in about and hour...no worries...i have proven time and again i cannot rebuild anything...so i just get new

osagecruiser

 

[REZARF]

Advance Auto parts... uses OEM, and they give you a lifetime warrenty.

I think it was around 35 bones.

Rezarf <><

 

[brian]

Advance Auto parts... uses OEM, and they give you a lifetime warrenty.

I think it was around 35 bones.

Rezarf <><

WORD, i use them more than i would to admit.....in fact just picked a clutch slave up from them.

not a fan of rebuilding cylinders either, when it does work, it never works long.

 

[slickrock]

would this kt fix my leak/seal problem

 

[PabloCruise]

would this kt fix my leak/seal problem

As long as the bore of your cylinder is not pitted from rust due to silt sitting on the bottom and trapping water - yes.

 

[trekker]

Maybe -Maybe not. If your rubber is shot, it'll work. But if your cylinder is pitted/scored, it won't. The only way to check is to pull it. Your Haynes/FSM has the specs and what to look for.

 

[PabloCruise]

Do you have a little hone to cross-hatch your bore?

 

[slickrock]

No I do not have a hone. Well, looks like I will tear it apart and figure out if I need a new one or just the kit. Thanks for the help.

 

[slickrock]

restarted post, please refer to first post in this thread for another quesiton. thanks.

 

[Trollhole]

In my opinion I would buy a new clutch master and be done with it. I have seen many people buy the rebuild kit on this board and it end up just as bad a couple of weeks later. It's worth the few extra dollars to do it right. That way you don't have to worry about it for another 10 to 20 years.

 

[TCinVA]

I just odered one- advance was $73 and napa was $62. Both new.

 

[PabloCruise]

No I do not have a hone. Well, looks like I will tear it apart and figure out if I need a new one or just the kit. Thanks for the help.

How is this working out slickrock?

 

[Chase77]

What advanced auto do you guys go to??? I was quoted 73 from advanced and the part had a 1 year warranty. For a few bucks more cdan hooked me up with the real deal.

 

[slickrock]

How is this working out slickrock?

Haven't made it that far yet. finished up my last soldering of my wiring harness and getting the little things inthe electrical working like the horn and heater. I am going to probably do the following in a week. Get a used master for the temporary to get me through the winter until I start the resto of the engine compartment and then all new shinny things get to be put in. Thanks for all the help. I was going to rebuild but with all the negative thoughts on that, I will go with a new one next spring.

 

[JP_FJ40]

just a quick caveat as pertains to Brake Fluid.

by its nature, it's 'hygroscopic', that is, the stuff readily absorbs atmospheric moisture.

as such, it's recommended that you flush and bleed brake and cluch systems once a year. you'll avoid the pitting, leaking and ruination that seems to befall everyones' masters and slaves cuz none of us bother.

hmmm. mine're due for a change... i'll get right on that...