So just so everyone understands my reasoning here is a little background. My '73 SBC conversion was done years ago using Downey parts mated to my 3 spd transmission. I decided to go with an NV4500 trans and wanted to avoid heat issues I had years ago.
As you can see from the photo the external slave sits right behind the drivers side exhaust manifold. The exhaust manifolds came on the 350 I used and are not the rams horn commonly used which would put the manifold further away from the slave. The positioning caused heat to boil the fluid in the slave and I would lose my clutch until things cooled. I eventually solved the problem by converting to silicone brake fluid which boiled at a higher temperature than conventional fluids at the time.
I'm comfortable with the internal slave and have it on other Chevy vehicles I've owned without any issues.
The purpose of this thread is to try and get first hand feedback regarding the use of the Toyota clutch master and Chevy internal slave. What little information I've been able to find on the site has only been those who have used other than the Toyota master. It was mentioned that even though the Toyota had the same bore, it's shorter stroke was the reason given for selecting an alternative master. The question left in my mind is did they try and adjust the clutch pedal out further before they switched. I remember having to do this when I originally converted to the SBC.
Here is where things sit now until I get more information.
Gen 1 SBC, factory bellhousing (15998496 casting) with a slightly modified inspection shield (had to open the starter hole) as I'd already purchased a Delco direct drive block mounted one which was less expensive than newer gear driven versions which have a smaller nose cone. This shield is the closest I could find and is actually for later one piece rear main seal 5.7L motor. The transmission is a new 2001 - 2003, GBDW coded 4 X 2 HD version (used with 8.1L gas) that had the output shaft changed to the 4 X 4 version.
I'm going to purchase a new clutch master but would like to avoid needing more adapters than necessary if possible. Also, any feedback about the internal slave as far as which seem more reliable, composite or aluminum, would also be appreciated.
Thanks!
I almost forgot; flywheel is 168 tooth with double sprung Mcleod Workhorse pressure plate and 12" disc. 2800 lb. if I remember correctly. Standard version would slip when pressure was put to 33" tires.
As you can see from the photo the external slave sits right behind the drivers side exhaust manifold. The exhaust manifolds came on the 350 I used and are not the rams horn commonly used which would put the manifold further away from the slave. The positioning caused heat to boil the fluid in the slave and I would lose my clutch until things cooled. I eventually solved the problem by converting to silicone brake fluid which boiled at a higher temperature than conventional fluids at the time.
I'm comfortable with the internal slave and have it on other Chevy vehicles I've owned without any issues.
The purpose of this thread is to try and get first hand feedback regarding the use of the Toyota clutch master and Chevy internal slave. What little information I've been able to find on the site has only been those who have used other than the Toyota master. It was mentioned that even though the Toyota had the same bore, it's shorter stroke was the reason given for selecting an alternative master. The question left in my mind is did they try and adjust the clutch pedal out further before they switched. I remember having to do this when I originally converted to the SBC.
Here is where things sit now until I get more information.
Gen 1 SBC, factory bellhousing (15998496 casting) with a slightly modified inspection shield (had to open the starter hole) as I'd already purchased a Delco direct drive block mounted one which was less expensive than newer gear driven versions which have a smaller nose cone. This shield is the closest I could find and is actually for later one piece rear main seal 5.7L motor. The transmission is a new 2001 - 2003, GBDW coded 4 X 2 HD version (used with 8.1L gas) that had the output shaft changed to the 4 X 4 version.
I'm going to purchase a new clutch master but would like to avoid needing more adapters than necessary if possible. Also, any feedback about the internal slave as far as which seem more reliable, composite or aluminum, would also be appreciated.
Thanks!
I almost forgot; flywheel is 168 tooth with double sprung Mcleod Workhorse pressure plate and 12" disc. 2800 lb. if I remember correctly. Standard version would slip when pressure was put to 33" tires.
Last edited: