Clutch is shot....what else should I do while in there? (1 Viewer)

[car-car]

The clutch on my '82 FJ40 is not long for this world. Specs on the truck is a 2F motor, 4-speed tranny, split case transfer. New hydralic system (clutch master installed this week, new hose, slave only a few months old, fluid flushed/refilled/bled this week), so I know it isn't that. I am getting the squeal from the clutch with the pedal down so the bearing is shot, and I think something like a spring has broken since I thought I heard something break and I am hearing something rattling around in there and I am getting intermittent issues with shifting. At first, I thought it may have been something in tranny or transfer that broke, so I drained both and didn't find anything (although the oil in the transfer seemed darker even though both were recently changed, so I am wondering if I have a bearing breaking down?). I then took off the flywheel inspection cover and couldn't see anything from that vantage point. Had the better half operate the clutch while I was underneath, and clutch fork moved as it should, as well as movement from the release bearing on the clutch. Shifting has been surprising smooth before for a 28 year old vehicle. But something definitely isn't right. I have been having "clutch judder", which is probably due to my rear main leak that I have.

So, my question is, as I dive into clutch replacement, what else should I do while I am in there. I have been researching it, and it looks like I will need to drop the tranny/transfer, which sounds like a good time, so I would like to address any potential issues while I am in there.



Shopping List:

• Clutch Kit w/ new pilot and release bearings
• Rear Main Seal (no more leaks)
• Transfer Case Rebuild Kit (that discolored oil I found left me uneasy, and would rather have it taken care of just in case since I don't know the history on it, and have read it isn't too difficult to rebuild)
• Transmission Gasket Set (renew the seals so I don't have leaks later since I already have it down)
• U-Joints for the rear driveline (I have a rear u-joint at the transfer with some play, and it also can be felt/heard while coasting out of gear)

Another question, is it best to have the flywheel machined when I am doing this, so everything is as new?

One last question, I don't think the tranny has any issues, as it has been smooth, but is there a way to check when I have it down? Check clearances, check play, post up pics, etc.?

I would love to hear any other ideas/tips/recommendations everyone might have to do it right the first time, yet as efficiently as possible since this is my daily driver, so minimized downtime is the goal.

Thanks in advance for everyone's help.

 

[65swb45]

Your list is VERY complete. I would add a new clutch fork and clutch hub for the throwout bearing to the list.

Best

Mark A.

 

[bad_religion_au]

don't do what i did when i pulled my 40 off the road for a clutch job 3 years ago...

while it was down i decided i needed to.

put 60 series diffs under it
redesign the suspension
power steering
engine, swap.
tub the rear to fit 40 inch tires
tube front guards
front locker
stronger gearbox
PTO winch
fit 36 inch tires
remount the seats
redo the exhaust.

yeah... talk about project creep.

 

[3_puppies]

make sure your leak is actually from the rear main....not the cam plug or your side cover

 

[Rocky_LC]

IIRC: Flywheel facing needs to maintain the "step" between the pressure surface and the rim. Can't recall the specs (they are different between the 2F and F clutch setups), but make sure your machine shop is aware of it....

Rocky

 

[Dedtruk]

You might want to replace the rubber boot on the clutch fork and the rubber inspection cover in the bellhousing too. Even the shifter cane boot was toast on mine. Definitely have the flywheel machined. I'd replace that rear main seal regardless of the source of the leak, but it makes sense to check for other leaks.

 

[car-car]

Perfect, I appreciate all the recommendations and advice. Most of the parts are on order and hoping to get them around mid-week. I know I will be posting up questions along the way. Thanks again for everyone's help.

 

[car-car]

make sure your leak is actually from the rear main....not the cam plug or your side cover

Okay, got the parts and started in on this thing. Clutch disc was very much gone (I'll get pics up later). Dropping the flywheel off at the machine shop today, and then going to battle on the pilot bearing removal.

I cleaned up the area around the rear main to see if this is truly the leak area. I am planning on replacing it regardless. I didn't see any other problem with the side cover (I replaced the gasket about a year ago), but where is the cam plug that can be problematic so that I can check that too?

Thanks.

 

[Rocky_LC]

It's behind the bell housing. There are actually two places it can leak, an oil gallery plug, and the cam plug.

Rocky

 

[car-car]

Those pics help a bunch, thanks Rocky. I will pull the bellhousing to check it out. I appreciate the help.

Thanks.

 

[Toyo FJ40]

Okay, got the parts and started in on this thing. Clutch disc was very much gone (I'll get pics up later). Dropping the flywheel off at the machine shop today, and then going to battle on the pilot bearing removal.



.

Pack grease into the hole in the pilot bearing and then push in a bolt thats a close fit to the center hole, the pressure will pop the bearing out.

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Grease or bread. I use bread, that's just me.

Mark: why would you replace the clutch fork? Does it wear out?

Dan

 

[micky]

the biggest time saver when doing this is insureing the clutch is installed the right way. i found out the hard way there is a worng way.

 

[85fr16]

We used a Hamburger Bun to remove the pilot bearing and it worked great.

 

[car-car]

Pack grease into the hole in the pilot bearing and then push in a bolt thats a close fit to the center hole, the pressure will pop the bearing out.

Figured I would start off with the grease method, and I popped the bearing shielding off, but the bearing remains. Since grease now just pushes through the ball bearings, I am guessing the bread method probably won't work on this one now. Off to the hardware store to try the carriage bolt trick.

Also hoping to get the machined flywheel back today too.

On the positive progress note, I used Poser's rear main seal trick and that was really easy. Also got the new oil pan gasket on there.

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Figured I would start off with the grease method, and I popped the bearing shielding off, but the bearing remains. Since grease now just pushes through the ball bearings, I am guessing the bread method probably won't work on this one now. Off to the hardware store to try the carriage bolt trick.

I'd put money on the bread working. Seriously: never doubt the bread. That's exactly what forced me to do the bread the first time. The grease was just pushing through the bearing, and it was late at night so I couldn't go get a bolt (and amazingly didn't have one sitting around the shop). So I read this crazy idea on the internets about using bread and now I'm a believer.

You can tell, I'm like a bread method preacher. I'm out to make converts!

On the positive progress note, I used Poser's rear main seal trick and that was really easy. Also got the new oil pan gasket on there.

Sweet. Most gaskets are just gaskets, but for some reason putting a new oil pan gasket on always makes me smile.

Dan

 

[car-car]

Okay, now I am going to have to try the bread method first when I get home. I will let you know if you have another convert.

 

[Rocky_LC]

Pilot Puller - Carriage Bolt Trick

This was easier for me.....

 

[bsmith123]

clutch

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/245021-pics-oem-p-ns-rear-main-clutch-change.html


Make sure you look at everything you put on and make sure it is the right way round ---try to look at it when you are pulling it to be sure if you are not experienced at it.

IE the clutch goes in one way only, the rear main, the throwoutbearing etc

(forgive me if you already know all that)

might want an extra clip (throwout bearing retainer "jesus" clip)

if you are pulling the oil pan try the string trick by setting the gasket in sealant and tying the holes in place and let it set
then hold the pan up with a few longer bolts and pull it into place with all the rest then replace the longer ones. Watch out for forcing the gasket with the bolts ---it'll tear and leak

pour some pen oil in the oil pan bolt holes from the top before you start

read posers rear main seal change

the step on my flywheel was .020 and it cost $45 to get it surfaced


hmmmm thats about all I remember

oh yeah---do the parking brake if you need one while you are at it and you might want a trans bypass hose and or a transfer case saver---both pretty cheap while you are at it

I used a loaner pilot puller from the parts storm and pulled it after removing an arm---worked fine, everyone's got a method they swear by though


trying to think of anything else

 

[car-car]

I definitely appreciate all the tips and advice from everyone, it has been a learning/trying experience, as it is my first clutch job and trying to do it right the first time. I do thank everyone that has helped out here so far.

An update from last night: two steps forward, one step back....

Got the flywheel back from the machine shop ($30).

Out of curiosity, I tried Dan's "bread" method he was preaching, and.....it worked! I'm a convert. Never got the chance to try the carriage bolt trick.

I cleaned up the transmission input shaft with emory cloth (spelling?) and prefit the new pilot bearing. Went to drive the new pilot bearing back into the crank housing and the socket shifted on me as I was driving it in with the hammer and I dented the bearing shielding and now the bearing doesn't spin as smoothly as it should. So, I now have another pilot bearing on order and should be here in a couple days....

Hopefully someone else can learn from my "adventures".....