Clutch installation (1 Viewer)

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Figured I would start a thread since I didn't see many out there. Hope to do the job this weekend. I'll update as I go with screw ups, swear words & things not working as planned. Here's what I have so far.
-clutch kit (throw out & pilot brgs, alignment tool & housing)
-transmission floor Jack
-resurfaced flywheel
-new trans mount
-new fork shift boot
-new rear main seal
ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1445627463.793575.jpg


Wish me luck
 
good luck, watching this one with interest, throw out bearing is on the way out on mine. Not looking forward to this repair at all!! If you dont mind me asking where did you get the parts? Wondering if OEM is the way to go?
 
keep us posted!! I need to do this as well soon. I have done it before on a CJ7 a long ass time ago so more pics the better!
 
Cool, just did this a few months ago...along with an H55. I bolted the new tranny mount to the plywood then bolted the plywood to be jack...made everything so much easier!! image.jpeg

Have fun!
 
gunna drop the pan for the RMS or beat it in w/the ABS adapter? I recommend the pan, cause the pound in method might bugger a seal or two...don't forget to put rtv on the flywheel bolts. I swapped my trans input seal while it was all out on the ground...it didn't need it, but...
 
Looks like you got things covered. Be careful that you put the disk in the right way. It will fit both ways but only works in one way. If you put it in backwards, you get to do it all over again.

One more thing is that when I did mine, I had to use longer bolts to draw the tranny back on to the bell housing. After it was on, or close to on, I used the regular bolts.
 
I DON'T WANNA SEE NO MORE TOES OR SHOE TIPS IN PIX !! :p

I kid.

X3 on making sure the DISC in in the correct way. It's in the FSM.

Use some emery cloth to polish the tip of the input shaft (Output shaft's brother ?:D) and make sure the NEW pilot bearing slides easily on/off the tip - that way you'll avoid having to use bolts to draw the tranny in, which has been known to break off the ears of the bell-housing! I have seen it!

Using dowels works very well.

Bonne Chance.

ALSO, FWIW, the AISIN/ASCO clutch disc, the DT-075, with the rubber shock things, works better, I've read. It's the OEM.

Is that an Aisin/asco plate and disc you have ?

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Spike be speaking words of wisdom.

Just a a FYI..

Many years ago I replaced my clutch disc with a non-Toyota disc (from SOR) that had those central springs instead of rubber cushions. It was billed as a HD disc.

After I put it all back together, and took it for a test drive, I discovered I now had clutch judder when releasing the clutch. Clutch would not engage smoothly. Momma Mia!

Ended up having to drop the tranny and do it all over again to install the Aisin/Toyota disc. Clutch worked perfectly then.

Also be extremely careful when checking the fit of the input shaft on the new pilot bearing. As Spike mentioned.
There has to be an interference fit. Some grab, but not excessive.

Not all pilot bearings dimensions from different vendors are exactly the same. Their ID can vary by a few 10,000ths. That's enough to either have a too tight fit or a bit too loose.

If the pilot bearing seems to fit a bit too tight, burnish THE INNER RACE OF THE BEARING, not the input shaft tip.

The thing to be aware of here is that the input shaft tip needs to have enough grab on to the bearing so that it will never spin free of the race when the bearing inevitably degrades over the years and creates a lot more rotational friction.

If that happens, (and it happens), the input shaft tip will break free of the binding bearing and start grinding itself down.

image.jpeg
 
Thx for all the comments & suggestions. I'm now concerned because I didn't buy the Aisin OEM kit. A local biz here that specializes in clutches, U joint repair & such recommended the HD clutch. I just figured with mostly wheeling, this would be a good thing? Maybe not now.
 
Figured I would start a thread since I didn't see many out there. Hope to do the job this weekend. I'll update as I go with screw ups, swear words & things not working as planned. Here's what I have so far.
-clutch kit (throw out & pilot brgs, alignment tool & housing)
-transmission floor Jack
-resurfaced flywheel
-new trans mount
-new fork shift boot
-new rear main sealView attachment 1151855

Wish me luck
Looking forward to seeing this through...
Can I trouble you to measure the thickness of the friction material of your new clutch plate? I have a lightly worn one I have decided to reinstall... but hoping to compare with new to ease my mind.

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Can someone elaborate on determining the correct side of the disk? Is the disk marked in some way designate the correct side?
 
Can I trouble you to measure the thickness of the friction material of your new clutch plate? I have a lightly worn one I have decided to reinstall... but hoping to compare with new to ease my mind.
I don't have a measurement, but a good pic.

Here is a photo of a brand new Aisin disc and a 25 yr. old Aisin disc that had 210,000 miles on it.
(There was still plenty of friction material on the old disc, but the pilot bearing had frozen up).

The rule of thumb is: If there are still radial grooves in the disc, you're not down to the rivets yet.

This is Salomon's thread, so I should mind my own council. I just don't want anyone else to make any preventable mistakes if possible. Doing a clutch job twice sucks. I would know.

NEW
image.jpeg

OLD
image.jpeg

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That looks like the OEM ASCO pressure plate, but I can't tell for sure from your pic. The HD disc SOR, and others sell is also an ASCO product, FAIK, it's just listed as a HD unit with greater somethingorother, and I *kind of recall* Marv Specter saying it was for a diesel engine when I looked at them side-by-side at SOR many moons ago? .... Anyway, the stock OE disc, is plenty heavy duty as is, and has worked very well for millions of miles in 2Fs. The shop you bought the kit from may allow you to swap out the disc ?

Also, FWIW, the Toyota OE throw-out bearing is much more robust than the Koyo sold as an aftermarket with the clutch kits. Maybe @beno can confirm this?

Good luck!
 
Update: trans Jack didn't arrive last weekend so pushed install date to this weekend. Long story short, job not complete yet. Forgot to order oil pan gasket, doh!!!

Anyways, interesting thing is my worn clutch was 7.0mm thick, brand new one is 8.5mm. Removed old pilot bearing using the grease and bread trick, funny as hell! Installed new pilot bearing, rear main seal & flywheel today. Update more later.
ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1446415071.035200.jpg
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ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1446415108.756813.jpg
 
Hope I don't have to see that side of my engine again for a while!
 

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