Clutch help (1 Viewer)

[pbgbottle]

I think that’s all that was available. For those bolts I haven’t seen them look any different, if you do get it part ,I liked to always test fit the plate to the transmission also. As I had one that didn’t fit right had a dowel pin that was to long. And was causing a misalignment issue. As I bolted it to transmission tight it pushed the dowel pin back into plate a bit and I just grounded it flush on back side of plate and fixed the fitment / alignment issue. I had.

 

[grich575]

Makes sense

 

[Downey]

Those Allen head screws are a "flat head" screw (back side tampered on an angle). (1) They have a better/larger bite surface than a regular Allen head (which uses a larger wrench). (2) They center/align the plate at the flat head screw rather than the plate walking around a loose bolt hole pattern. If you have to remove the plate, pre-soak the screws with liquid wrench (or equivalency) before trying to remove.

 

[peesalot]

don't be to concerned with the TO fitting the snout, the fork will locate the TO and it will be fine. You should have a credit card thickness between the TO & the PP fingers at rest. Verify that it returns to that position after cycling the clutch a few times.
You should have some down travel left in the pedal after clutch releases, but you should be past half way. There should be about 1.5 inch window of travel where you can fell the clutch grab and release points. If that window is less distance and the clutch has an on/off feel with no let in then it needs adjustment IMO. As well that window should be at 65 to 80 % of travel on the pedal, up to high like it release as soon as you push it or it does not release until you pin pedal down then adjustment is needed IMO. FWIW