Clunk in front suspension, need help diagnosing

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Layonnn

Layonnn

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Nov 8, 2007
Threads
59
Messages
2,101
Location
Baton Rouge, LA
Quick details:
-The clunk sound only seems to happen when turning into driveways that have a slight curb. Sort of sounds like a shifting clunking noise.
-This started immediately after getting my gears/lockers installed. Prior to this work, absolutely no sound at all.
-Getting the shop to figure out the issue and fix it is not going to happen (took them a month to do the gears and lockers when they told me it'd be 3-4 days after having an appt scheduled for over a month, took two weeks of calling before they would even take 5 minutes to look at it, etc.).
-I do know that when they removed the front axle that they disconnected the spindles from the UCA and LCA and did not mess with the hubs/bearings.

Things i have checked and all were tight:
Rubber bushings and tightness of the bolts attaching the front axle/diff.
Shock mounts upper and lower.
Sway bar mounts and bushings (bushings on link ends a little worn but 0 play)
UCA and LCA castle nuts
Repacked the front wheel bearings and adjuster nuts and locking nuts are good.
Engine mount bolts and checked rubber bushings

Any thoughts or ideas?
 
Disconnect the sway bar end links and try to duplicate sound. Quick easy way to 100% eliminate them. It can be hard to impossible to visually or even pry bar check if end links are bad.

Also a little better description of exactly when the noise occurs would help. On or off throttle / brakes, is the front end transitioning the bump with both tires parallel at the same time or at an angle? Can you feel it in the steering wheel, seat, floor boards, etc.

Thanks,
Brandon
 
I have the same small clunk sound that I can feel in the floor board. Almost always when turning left and becoming more frequent when turning right and coming to a stop. I had the shocks, globes, UCA, LCA ball joints, sway bar bushings, setting rack, tie rod ends and rear cools replaced just over a year ago. Click started about 3 weeks ago. Any ideas?
 
I have been having this EXACT same problem and it has been driving me crazy. I did discover that my slee front skid was missing the center bolt and the washers on the bolts between the front and mid plate. I put new ones one and it seemed to resolved the issue for a few days but came back.

Does yours almost sound like a metal moved? Like something was under tension then popped? They have to remove the skid plate obviously to pull the diff out.

But mine definitely happens when coming to a stop (only sometimes), when turning right and weight shifts to the left (sometimes) or when backing out of the driveway and the wheels are turned to the right so the let wheel articulates first (sometimes). It's not consistent.

I did get the noise consistently on both sides when I was wheeling. It was whenever the suspension flexed. Usually going up. I replaced the CV on one side and I'm about to replace the one on the left to see if that is part of the problem. I was running 35s and the front was lifted too high so my CV axles got some strain from the angle. One was leaking and I was going to reboot it but after cleaning it off it was clearly toast. The other side didn't need a reboot so I just put it back in but I'm wondering if it had some of the same extreme blueing and otehr damage the other side did. Just going to go ahead and replace.

A part of me has wondered if there is something going on in the diff though...

I may just drop the front skid for a week or two and see if it is just the skid plate shifting as the rig flexes.
 
A year ago I had the exact same thing, when turning heard a clunk on the front. My case was a broken sway bar link, replaced both and never had it again.
 
Similar problem for me too, happened after installing SPC UCA and having wheel alignment done, I soon discovered that the adjusting bolt on the UCA had slipped (powder coated surface) to a positive camber setting, re-adjusted to proper negative camber setting and it feels great again.

Tested all bushing etc first, no probs there, I also had issue turning on full lock, felt like massive under steer.

Worth a look.
 
I have also had a mystery front end "clunk" that was only noticeable when going over a slight lip into my driveway. It was also noticeable when accelerating after a complete stop. Mine was more metallic in nature and sounded like a "click" as opposed to a clunk. Drove me crazy for 2 years and I could not figure it out even after spending 2+ hours under the front end tightening everything on multiple occasions. Turned out to be the steering rack bushings. New rack and now front end is silent (and handling/ road manners have improved considerably).
 
PcCruiser said:
Does yours almost sound like a metal moved? Like something was under tension then popped? They have to remove the skid plate obviously to pull the diff out.

But mine definitely happens when coming to a stop (only sometimes), when turning right and weight shifts to the left (sometimes) or when backing out of the driveway and the wheels are turned to the right so the let wheel articulates first (sometimes). It's not consistent.
Click to expand...

Same symptoms as my truck. Turned out to be the steering rack bushings.
 
I replaced both lower ball joints and LCA mounted bushing (it didn't look that bad once I had the LCA out, but had the replacement so went ahead and changed it)

My front end clunks are completely gone. Turned out both ball joints had just the slightest amount of wear causing the clunk.
 
Layonnn said:
I replaced both lower ball joints and LCA mounted bushing (it didn't look that bad once I had the LCA out, but had the replacement so went ahead and changed it)

My front end clunks are completely gone. Turned out both ball joints had just the slightest amount of wear causing the clunk.
Click to expand...

You know? I had the moog joints pressed in and they are leaking on both sides after just a year. I've wondered about that. Part of me wonders if I should just replace the whole LCA with a new OEM ones. Not cheap but guarantees that fresh new and way-it-was-design feel. They did the bushings too when they put it in.
 
PcCruiser said:
You know? I had the moog joints pressed in and they are leaking on both sides after just a year. I've wondered about that. Part of me wonders if I should just replace the whole LCA with a new OEM ones. Not cheap but guarantees that fresh new and way-it-was-design feel. They did the bushings too when they put it in.
Click to expand...

Have you checked your UCA ball joint?
 
Layonnn said:
Have you checked your UCA ball joint?
Click to expand...

That was my first thought so I went nuclear and replaced the SPCs with some uniball Total Chaos. That wasn't it.
 
Agent T said:
I have the same small clunk sound that I can feel in the floor board. Almost always when turning left and becoming more frequent when turning right and coming to a stop. I had the shocks, globes, UCA, LCA ball joints, sway bar bushings, setting rack, tie rod ends and rear cools replaced just over a year ago. Click started about 3 weeks ago. Any ideas?
Click to expand...
It could very well be your steering shaft. Hold it under your steering column and see if you can feel anything over lips
 
Wow! Lots of owners having a similar problem. Have the belly covers off now so I can quickly try to diagnose this problem. It's getting worse every day, so I should be able to find something.
 
I too am having the same problem and I've done all the sway bar bushings, tightened everything up. It tends to happen most coming out of a parked location on the curb, So as I steer hard left to drive off. I'm leaning towards the steering rack or the front diff mounts which I hear are problematic after 280k miles! Keep looking folks cuz I want this gone!
 
I finally gave up and took it to the Lexus Dealership. My thought, at least I could put this issue behind me and I would have a cool loaner car for a few days. After 4 days, the service manager said they finally found the problem...it took them 4 hours of looking; front differential mounts/bushings need to be replaced. Okay, other than the front axles, the diff mounts are about the only thing that I hadn't replaced yet with OEM parts. So, after some questioning and haggling, they agreed to replace all 3 mounts...including the diff cover mount for $890 and let me keep the loaner. Day seven, service manager called and said he made a mistake and forgot to include the diff cover mount...add $200. Work hasn't been started, so I could still back out...but I didn't. Three days later, call from service manager. "work has been completed, but the clunk is still there So, no charge for the new parts and labor". WTF!!! That is really cool of you, but I want my rig fixed!!! He said they were 95% sure the clunk or pop sound was coming from the diff mounts. But now, they are 99% sure that the lower control arms and torsion bars are the cause. $2500 parts/labor. But he said he didn't recommend the work. Too much cost versus the benefit. I reminded him that just 15 months ago I had an independent shop install new OEM upper control arms, OEM LCA bushings, 555 LCR ball joints,4 OEM Shocks and Globes, OEM front & rear sway bar mounts and links, OEM rear springs, OEM tie-rod ends...and a after-market steering rack (I know, right???) So, how could I need new lower control arms and torsion bars???? He said he couldn't explain it and that they are 99% sure that the LCR and torsion bars are the issue...but, that if the clunk/pop sound is still there are the work is complete, that they WOULD CHARGE Me for this work. It's been about a month and now the clunking/popping sound is almost constant during slow speed turns...like any time i'm driving in bumper to bumper traffic or a parking lot. It's loud enough that you can hear it inside and outside the car. Any help is greatly appreciated.
 
Homie, I️ chased this exact problem for months. Do you feel it in your wheel? Or does it sound remote? Find a bumpy road and reach under to feel the steering yoke/column. My intermediate shaft had a tiny bit of play and it went all the way up the shaft and was giving me my problem. I️ replaced it and it’s been perfect. I️ could even hear it when I️ went over bumps. PM me if you find play or have more questions. Believe me I️ know how annoying it is.
 
I don't feel anything in my steering wheel. Occasionally, I feel a slight knock coming through the floor board. I'll check the steering yoke/column again this weekend. I'm just blown away that the dealership can't seem to put their finger on the problem. When I replaced all the suspension parts, there was a "creaking" sound coming from the front end when I went over speed bumps or off-roading. But, it was completely gone and the suspension was quite and felt good for about a year after the suspension was overhauled. The only other issue I have after the suspension overhaul is the load capacity seems to be diminished. When I load up the family with the camping gear and bike rack, the rear suspension will get stuck in low and won't raise until every one gets out of the car...and I restart. Strange! I think maybe the torsion bars and ride heights are out of adjustment. But, when I asked the dealership to look into to suspension adjustments...they said it's fine. Very frustrating!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom